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So pissed off that you joined a Mazda forum, created a username to express your frustration and replied to a post 6 months old to get it off your chest....
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MRCC/FOW Radar Blocked! - WTF?
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So pissed off that you joined a Mazda forum, created a username to express your frustration and replied to a post 6 months old to get it off your chest....
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17 Posts
Don't like the comment that scatches your favorite brand (it was mine until it reached the 100'000km and the issues started) ?
Don't like newcomers giving their feedback ?
Don't understand what a forum is meant for ?
*Your* problem ...
I was searching the web on this issue, just to see if I was the only one having bad luck or if the problem was broader.
Found this thread and others that show I'm far from being alone ...
Then added my opinion that may help others by giving part numbers and some links where to get the part at a better price if you're outside warranty.
This is just the basic purpose of a forum: helping others.
No matter if you reply 6 months later, it may not help the guy you replied to but certainly others in the future.
BTW, the guy I replied to after 6 months, replied to the former one 10 months later, so what ?! Where were you ?
As the Swede, like myself, owns a Mazda6 2.2D (diesel), he or others may also be interested in below issue:
https://youtu.be/Th58DpEIX98
Guess what ? My Mazda6 is at the time being in the workshop with the carbonated deposits issue and the low oil pressure message.
For the second time in a year ...
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17 Posts
After 2 months, I finally got my Mazda6 back, the low oil pressure had the following consequences:
- camshafts + rockers + cover replacement
- complete turbo replacement (the axis twisted due to bad lubrication)
- rod shells replacement
- injectors joints replacement (that was the root cause)
- oil pump strainer replacement
- complete cleaning of the engine with engine oil and filter replacement, gearbox oil replacement, ...
They also found the battery was nearly dead (this is a special battery that requires resetting the i-eloop) and the vacuum pump too.
To be added to the MRCC radar that died a few months before that.
The total cost, just for the parts, was around 13K$ and Mazda did not want to pay for it as the failure happened after the end of warranty. Exactly less than 2 months after end of warranty.
Luckily, the garage found a way to reduce that cost down to 7000$, radar included.
My impression is that part of the cost was charged on other cars under warranty, not sure how exactly they did that but that saved the car from scrapping, because when I heard of the >13k$, I already started to find a replacement ...
Although the car seems fine now, I totally lost confidence in it and the manufacturer ...
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748 Posts
Joined
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17 Posts
It's a 2013 Skyactiv model which, I believe, is the 3rd gen.
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748 Posts
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17 Posts
Yes, it's the diesel Skyactiv-D 2.2 which has a turbo.
The sludge is exactly like in the video from Colin Hagan I posted previously.
Would be a great engine (the torque is fabulous) if not flawed by these two issues: carbonated oil clogging the oil pump strainer due to leaks at the injectors' seals and the diesel in oil when doing DPF regeneration (filter particulates combustion) in cars used only in cities.
So far, I've not had the second issue as I use my Mazda6 mostly for long trips where he DPF regeneration is effective.
For me, having twice the radar and twice the oil issues within 100'000km is to much, especially seen the poor response from Mazda.
Moreover, the video of Hagan is not about the Skyactiv version of this engine but the former one, which means the issue was not fixed from one generation to the next which is barely acceptable.
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17 Posts
Well, I *thought* the car was OK ...
When stopping at a traffic light, the i-Stop cut the engine and, as the red was lasting, the i-Stop restarted normally the engine but the i-Stop indicator went orange.
I already felt the restart after the i-Stop wasn't as smooth as previously but thought it was normal.
Verdict: the AT has a small pump to keep the oil pressure in the gearbox during the i-Stop period which does not give enough pressure, it must be replaced: the pump alone is 1000$, add the labour.
This car is a joke ...
I thought to sell it next spring but I'm not sure it will even reach next spring ...
I'm refurbishing my old (330'000km) Honda Civic EK4, at least that one lasted 3 times the Mazda ...
When stopping at a traffic light, the i-Stop cut the engine and, as the red was lasting, the i-Stop restarted normally the engine but the i-Stop indicator went orange.
I already felt the restart after the i-Stop wasn't as smooth as previously but thought it was normal.
Verdict: the AT has a small pump to keep the oil pressure in the gearbox during the i-Stop period which does not give enough pressure, it must be replaced: the pump alone is 1000$, add the labour.
This car is a joke ...
I thought to sell it next spring but I'm not sure it will even reach next spring ...
I'm refurbishing my old (330'000km) Honda Civic EK4, at least that one lasted 3 times the Mazda ...
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17 Posts
Ok, fixed and the folks did not count the labour ...
FYI, not sure if linked to the radar (hardware) change or the software update but the MRCC behaviour changed quite a lot and is much more human-like: less sensitive to trucks when overtaking them in a curve (no more unexpected braking) and much smoother in the response, tipically when a car changes lane change just in front of you or when cars are braking in front of you, it only brakes if needed otherwise, it just lets the car slow down.
A very welcome improvement !
FYI, not sure if linked to the radar (hardware) change or the software update but the MRCC behaviour changed quite a lot and is much more human-like: less sensitive to trucks when overtaking them in a curve (no more unexpected braking) and much smoother in the response, tipically when a car changes lane change just in front of you or when cars are braking in front of you, it only brakes if needed otherwise, it just lets the car slow down.
A very welcome improvement !
Your concerns regarding the engine oil are legitimate. The consensus seems to be to remove the DPF and do a computer remap for a more open exhaust. Should solve the oil problem and increase longevity but it's not cheap here in Australia - $2000~. The radar... I've encountered 1 problem with it and that it flashed "BRAKE BRAKE" randomly on the highway once. I quickly cancelled cruise control but I think that's a really dangerous thing to happen if the car wants to brake suddenly at 100km/h. Hasn't happened since so i'm just going to monitor it for now. Recently I did have a "low oil pressure" warning light that forced me to tow the car. It's a known issue with the diesels but Mazda are tight lipped about it.
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Aoeu : thanks for your comments, especially regarding the DPF, I'll raise the point to the Mazda dealer next time.
I also got the radar showing the red "BRAKE" message several times but, so far, it was somehow justified (going down a ramp quickly or not slowing down when a car brakes to turn ahead of us), situations that could be considered as potentially dangerous by the software.
But I got twice the car braking heavily (without showing the "BRAKE" warning) when entering a toll in a highway at a low speed, not very pleasant. I suppose the car considered the left and right walls of the toll as obstacles.
I'm closing to the next oil change (~130'000km), so far, the engine is still alive but I'm having the following problems:
- when the car is very cold (letting it outside in the night in winter), on the small hill I have to climb, while I accelerate, the engine increases its RPM (the AT does not change gear) but speed remains constant. As if the clutch was slipping ...
Once the engine (and maybe more the AT) is hot, everything is normal again.
- the rear camera does not work anymore. It has already been changed under warranty (recall campaign) a couple of years ago. I'm sure I'll have a "pleasant" surprise on the replacement cost, let's see ...
I also got the radar showing the red "BRAKE" message several times but, so far, it was somehow justified (going down a ramp quickly or not slowing down when a car brakes to turn ahead of us), situations that could be considered as potentially dangerous by the software.
But I got twice the car braking heavily (without showing the "BRAKE" warning) when entering a toll in a highway at a low speed, not very pleasant. I suppose the car considered the left and right walls of the toll as obstacles.
I'm closing to the next oil change (~130'000km), so far, the engine is still alive but I'm having the following problems:
- when the car is very cold (letting it outside in the night in winter), on the small hill I have to climb, while I accelerate, the engine increases its RPM (the AT does not change gear) but speed remains constant. As if the clutch was slipping ...
Once the engine (and maybe more the AT) is hot, everything is normal again.
- the rear camera does not work anymore. It has already been changed under warranty (recall campaign) a couple of years ago. I'm sure I'll have a "pleasant" surprise on the replacement cost, let's see ...
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17 Posts
Looks like the camera is not waterproof enough, it failed after washing the car.
After searching the web, it's clearly not rare.
Fix is simple: replace the cam. Of course, outside warranty ...
Cost here is around 600$. Unfortunately, I can't buy one from overseas (US price is around 200$) because I own a Station Wagon which isn't sold there and the units seem different.
Still looking for a cheaper solution ...
Aside of that, I recently enjoyed the "lost favorites after nav update" for the NB1 nav system made by TomTom.
Those interested can find solutions in below thread (IT skills welcome !):
https://en.discussions.tomtom.com/b...est-update-10-855-2319141-1011690/index1.html
After searching the web, it's clearly not rare.
Fix is simple: replace the cam. Of course, outside warranty ...
Cost here is around 600$. Unfortunately, I can't buy one from overseas (US price is around 200$) because I own a Station Wagon which isn't sold there and the units seem different.
Still looking for a cheaper solution ...
Aside of that, I recently enjoyed the "lost favorites after nav update" for the NB1 nav system made by TomTom.
Those interested can find solutions in below thread (IT skills welcome !):
https://en.discussions.tomtom.com/b...est-update-10-855-2319141-1011690/index1.html
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17 Posts
Finally, I'm able to get a genuine camera part at dealer price which is close to the US one, great !
BTW, before getting this opportunity, I checked the web for a replacement and found that many backup cameras may not resist to a pressure washer, so, be careful and avoid the camera itself !
BTW, before getting this opportunity, I checked the web for a replacement and found that many backup cameras may not resist to a pressure washer, so, be careful and avoid the camera itself !
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17 Posts
Camera replaced successfully.
Although the hardware replacement is not difficult, you need to configure the camera and this is much less obvious, especially that, when I started the engine after the replacement, I got a configuration screen in ... Japanese.
I opened a separate thread as this may interest others:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/electrical/420121-mazda6-2013-rear-camera-replacement.html#post4887289
Although the hardware replacement is not difficult, you need to configure the camera and this is much less obvious, especially that, when I started the engine after the replacement, I got a configuration screen in ... Japanese.
I opened a separate thread as this may interest others:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/electrical/420121-mazda6-2013-rear-camera-replacement.html#post4887289
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1 Posts
There is a TSB for this that they do at the dealership, but it may be the VSM or the radar has gone out. My husband is having this exact problem that he is trying to fix for a customer. Strangely, Mazda redesigned the cruise control two years later...
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