Hi,
I'm always looking for ways to improve performance and help the longevity of my 6. I was talking to a buddy on the Contour forums and they are using the MPV oil cooler on their 3L engines. (Same cooler that comes stock on the SVT 2.5L) It's only $150 online and all that would be needed are a couple pieces of radiator hose and some T's and hose clamps to install it. That would drop the temp of the oil to the 190-200 degree range. I read in this thread and it usually hovers around 245-260.
BTW, please don't turn this thread into an argument about dino vs synth oils and oil temps.
Here's the cooler on Montgomery Mazda's site...
2006 Mazda MPV - Oil cooler assy - 2002-06 $149.73 Online Mazda Parts
It just screws in between the stock oil filter. Here's a pic of it installed on a SVT Contour...
It's a stock item on the 3L Duratec used on the Mazda MPV. I'm 99% sure that it will fit just fine. We just need to come up with the proper plumbing for the coolant lines.
Curious, but what is the advantage of doing this? Thermostat is full open around 210, so I'd assume even with the cooler the oil temp would be quite a but higher, but below the 245-260 mentioned by the OP.
I was looking at our waterpump setup this morning real quick before running off to work. I'm probably also going to order the MPV's coolant lines for an extra $115. I know that almost doubles the cost of this mod but it might also make this mod completely plug-and-play. It would look totally stock. Here's the lines that I'm talking about...
i didnt know 200+ degree coolant would do much as a cooler for oil. but id love to see a before and after from someone reputable to see if this actually makes that noticeable of a difference.
I'll be getting my datallogger and thermocouples tomorrow. I'm going to post whatever I find. Positive or negative. I'm not going to recommend a mod that hurts performance.
OK, I just got the parts yesterday. My initial impression is WOW. The build quality is great. It's a Modine part. It has 10 cooling layers in the cooler. I can see this being a very efficient part with minimal pressure drop. Also, the cooler is all brass. The only steel part is the center pipe.
The oil cooler installs just by screwing in the center pipe. It doesn't get much easier than that. I'm going to get under my 6 this weekend and see if it's possible to snake the coolant lines behind the cat. Worst case, the front manifold/cat may need to come off to install the lines. I don't want to cut the lines apart like one of the Contour guys did. (That's how he got the lines in without removing the cat.)
Oil Cooler part numbers...
Mazda AJ51-14-700
Ford 1S7E-6A642-CD
Oil Cooler coolant lines part numbers...
Mazda AJ03-14-520F
Ford YL8Z-6K743-AA
even the old mazda F2t's had one stock also. i actually have a good half dozen of them laying around from old motors. lol. but the coolant ports are a bit smaller. mazda has been using this type of oil coolant system since the mid 80's on different car's.
I've never been a fan of remote mount engine oil coolers. If a line breaks, your engine is toast. Also the lines on most all-in-one kits are too small. Too much of a pressure drop.
My thoughts on the MPV oil cooler and coolant lines are...
-It designed for the 3.0L Duratec
-The lines will follow the block.
-It will be almost unnoticeable to the untrained eye.
-OEM parts that were designed to last forever.
-Doesn't require mounting a dedicated radiator and running lines.
-If Mazda thinks that a Minivan needs this, a high-performance 6 really needs it.
-If the SVT Contour's 2.5L Duratec needed one, we really need one!
mazda(really it is duratec) thought me needed coolant lines going through the TB and tensioners on the water pumps too..... less you drive a 05.5+ or a 2G then those issues are not there.
Mazda has designed a lot of bass ackwards stuff and what caused me to start modding the hell out my car in the first place.
To say because Duratec designed it that way doesn't mean it is the best option or even right for the car.....
The Radiator T-stat opens at 210(IIRC... mine opens before that because I changed it) which means the coolant has to get up to 210 before It opens. Until then the oil is being cooled by the water that is already held within the lines. When the T-stat does open This will slow the heating process even more as the oil operating temp is 265(IIRC).
Do you have gauges to monitor operating temps of both the coolant and the oil temp so we can see what if anything happens?
Better. I just got an Innovate OT-2 data logger. I'm going to be using a thermocouple in the oil pan to monitor oil temp and I'll be using the OBD-2 values to monitor everything else. Coolant temp, intake air temp, etc.
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Reading Material for those looking for replacement 3.0L V6
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/244189-mazda-6-v6-vs-fusion-v6-they-100-same.html
http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/214472-v6-engine-replacement.html...
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