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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Picked up my 2017 Mazda 6 Touring a couple weeks ago. I LOVE this car and can’t wait to keep customizing. I started with lighting.

My car came without fog lights so I purchased the OEM stalk, OEM mounting hardware from my dealer, and the Morimoto XB LED Type Z plug and play H11 fogs from the retrofitsource based on recommendations from others on here. I hooked up the driver side and it works great. Finished the mounting/install and started on the passenger side.

Unfortunately when I plugged in the passenger side connectors to test and turned on the fog switch, the driver side flashes once then goes out and my 15a fog fuse under the hood blows. I’ve never been able to see if the passenger light even flickers on before the fuse blows because I can’t get out of the car in time (been through 5 fuses).

Tried switching the polarity on the R side bulb too and same result. This is most likely a defective bulb/unit and not my factory wiring, right? Gen 3 are prewired for fogs behind the bumper so I didn’t do anything except attempt to plug n play.
Retrofitsource is asking for a “picture or video” of the problem but not sure how I’m going to get a picture of a bulb that doesn’t work. I also already put the bumper back together with the empty housing and plastic while I wait for a replacement.

Just curious if any others with these Morimoto fogs have had a bad batch or if there is something else it could be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get your DMM and test it... could be a cut wire shorting out somewhere.
Thanks for the reply—you mean test the factory connector, right? Sorry I don’t even own a DMM but this is an excuse to get one. What should I do/look for exactly to test?
 

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Thanks for the reply—you mean test the factory connector, right? Sorry I don’t even own a DMM but this is an excuse to get one. What should I do/look for exactly to test?
You can set the tester at DC and choose the setting not lower than 12 volts or Auto. See if there's a voltage reading at the terminal of your fog lights.

Once you have confirmed a zero reading, 0 volts, switch the tester at resistance (Ohm's) and test the circuit. If it's shorted, you'll get zero. If it's good, you'll get an infinity reading.

I don't know if I'm making sense but I'd rather demonstrate how to use one than describe in words.
 

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If it did not short when that specific unit wasn't plugged in (e.g. one side worked without the other connected) then it is a near-certainty that the individual unit you plugged in for the pax side is internally shorted.

If the wiring was shorted then it would blow the fuse whether the connector to the module was mated or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I knew joining this forum was the move! Ok I’m buying a DMM either way, but an easier idea I didn’t think of when disassembled and troubleshooting (of course lol) would be to buy a cheap H11 halogen bulb and see if that works on the “bad” side. If it works fine then I can prove to retrofitsource that it’s the morimoto unit and not my car’s wiring. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Or take the other module out and plug it into the other side.....
True. But then I’d have to take the wheel well cover and housing out again on the completed side and I’m tired of laying on my garage floor! I guess this is the upgrade life I chose…🥴
 

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True. But then I’d have to take the wheel well cover and housing out again on the completed side and I’m tired of laying on my garage floor! I guess this is the upgrade life I chose…🥴
FWIW you can access the fog housing by removing only a few screws/clips and pulling back the cover and sticking your hand in- only takes a few minutes - but it'll still require laying on the garage floor :)
 

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BTW I have had these fogs in my "6" for a long time now and like them a LOT. They actually are useful unlike the factory ones which were, frankly, pointless.

I have only one complaint -- I would have loved a yellow color temperature option, but there isn't one. It's materially better for penetration in the conditions where you actually need it. Oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTW I have had these fogs in my "6" for a long time now and like them a LOT. They actually are useful unlike the factory ones which were, frankly, pointless.

I have only one complaint -- I would have loved a yellow color temperature option, but there isn't one. It's materially better for penetration in the conditions where you actually need it. Oh well.
@Byakuya That’s the way I did it too. Was not interested in taking my bumper off and dealing with potential scratches. I’ll save that for an HID retrofit project I am planning!

@tickerguy I agree yellow fogs look and function the best. I ordered my morimotos with yellow Lamin-X film and it looks good on the installed side. Retrofitsource got back to me and they really want a video of the problem so I’ll be laying on my garage floor again and shooting a neat fog light/blown fuse short film 😑
 
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