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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, my MS6 has has NEVER had a problem short of the reflash. The temperature was in the low 20's with freezing rain over the last couple days here in Dallas so it's effin' COLD outside! Anyway, yesterday evening I was leaving work and it was a nice 22 degrees out and I started up the car. I noticed immediately that it ws idling funny and it was weird sounding. I figured it was the engine just needing to warm up so I let it heat for a few and go to put it in gear and the CEL pops up. I'm like wtf. I don't have any of my mods installed yet so I knew it wasn't due to that. Well, I dropped it off at the dealer last night and they just called me. The Service Manager said that the Intake Manifold needs to be replaced. He said that it's stuck in the open position and it won't close. He said that he had the same problem with his 3 since it's the same part except that the MS6's is made of metal. The manifold has to be ordered and all he could tell me is that they're putting me in a 3 and that I would be without my car for "a while." What ever the hell that means. :swearin:

Any other intake manifolds on here been replaced?
 

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Wow...that's weak mode. Who's your dealer?
 

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okay First we have Transmissions dying, Intake Manifold's Freezing, Brakes Freezing....Intermittent Cells WTF is going on here?

:irate: Good luck to you Kokopellian...
 

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well mine through a cel also in 15deg weather. i think it's because that plastic valve gets stuck because it freezes and it pops the cel.
 

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That plastic selinoid is most likely the problem. Mine's been broke since early summer. All it does is reduce emissions during cold start and contribute to boost limitations. I also noticed my boost does NOT taper after 5500rpm after it broke, which lead me to beleive that is what the ECU uses to taper it. All I get is a CEL every couple days. I've thought about finding the sensor that tells it is stuck open and disconnecting the wire. I wanted to say disconnecting that actuator could fix the tapering problem, but I want a way to get rid of the CEL first.

BTW: I am pretty damn possitive this works because my e-01 can display in a progressive graph. After I installed the DP and started getting the fuel-cut, I first hooked the stock boost controller back up and just used the e-01 as a gauge, so the ebc had no effect on boost. It used to fall off, and now it doesn't. We ever get some tuning that takes all this crap out of the picture, I might order the part I need to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow...that's weak mode. Who's your dealer?[/b]
It's Eldorado Mazda.

Thanks Dragon. I just want my car back.

For those that say it's the plastic piece, that's what the dealer said but apparently ours is made of metal. The dealer said that the part can't be ordered separately. :sarc: Whatever, just get my 6 back to me asap. :drive:
 

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Your dealer is full of crap. I had one ordered, then cancelled the order. It was like $75 or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Your dealer is full of crap. I had one ordered, then cancelled the order. It was like $75 or something.[/b]
Basically. It's amazing what a phone call to Mazda Tech will do. I hate it when the dealership folks think they know everything before checking. Kudos to the tech that decided to call it in.

So the dealership called me right when I was leaving work and told me that the car was ready for pick up. There is a TSB out on the IMRC malfunctioning. The invoice says that they elongated the holes for the switch. So I expect we'll see more of this in the future. My build date is 10/06 if it matters. So as of now it's fixed. I'm going on a road trip tomorrow so we'll see how she holds up.
 

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we were in the teens in Kansas City lately, I have a 30 minute drive to work everyday and haven't had any cels or problems (except for trying to drive on ice and snow with stock tires). Good luck with your car.
 

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I'll be got-damned if right after I read this thread, I left work yesterday and a CEL popped up on my dash!!!

As soon as I read this, left work and BAM!!! I'm glad I saw this thread though.

So I keep a scan tool in my trunk, and I hooked it up and it said.....'Code#-intake manifold runner stuck open.'

It was probably about 14 degrees out yesterday evening. I was just curious what would happen so I cleared the codes, and it hasn't come back on since.......I'm not sure if it is no longer stuck open, or if the code will come back....
 

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If you guys are getting them stuck from the cold, it should thaw once warm. But, that means it's not opperating when it's told to, which is what throws the CEL. If yours was broken like mine is, you would get it everytime you start the motor when it's cold.
 

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It was 18 degrees in philly today. My car stalled once. I restarted and stayed on a throttle a bit.. Let it idle for about 10 min and was ok...

This engine is very particular in the cold...
 

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Sounds like this issue...

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=67083

I started mine this morning for the first time since Saturday, and it was 3F here. It started fine, warmed up fine, and ran fine....so far so good.

It sounds like a known issue that seems to happen more on the CX-7's...
 

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I've had this problem for a couple months. IF I let the car warm up long enough, the CEL would not come on. But if not it would come on after about 2 mins of driving. Would go off after awhile, then eventually when it got cold again it would come on again.

I had called the dealer once before and all they asked was if the light was flashing or not, and that it was probably the gas cap. Ya, I hate dealers. I'm not an idiot. Finally I went to autozone to get the code pulled. Called the dealer up and they said "eh, sometimes autozone pulls the wrong code" Ok, well that may be true but in this case, no. I looked and checked into it.

Either way, I"m dropping the car off today after work. They said they needed it for a day to fix it. So, yay for a rental. Wonder if they will complain about the boost gauge or DSM bov.
 

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Just thinking a bit out loud here, but I wonder if this occurs more with CAI equipped cars since they have a tendency to get the filter wet and allow some water to get up in the intake tract due to the air vents being the wheel well. I know there was another thread where the guys filter was getting wet, and he had water up into his intake. Any chance that some water gets past, then when it gets cold, it freezes that piece in place?
 

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No, this sounds like the same issue I am hearing some folks in the CX-7 community having. The good news is my wife and I may both be affected by it since I have an MS6 and she just got a CX-7. One of the folks on the CX-7 board had the car worked on for this and the dealer noted:

dct code P2006 swirl control.
RNR swirl control acuator and elongated holes
adjust to 2mm per tech line

So maybe the thing that is getting stuck in the cold is what they are calling the swirl control actuator.

I have been waiting to see if this happens on either vechicle since we are finally getting a cold snap here in New England.
 

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That is exactly what it is, a plastic actuator behind your BOV. It is vacum controlled, and when activated (by an electronic selinoid between your intake manifold and innercooler) swings an arm, which is connected to the shaft of a gate valve which is similar to the throttle body.
 

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Your best bet is to go in like you don't know anything. It seems to more people seem to know and want to tell the advisor, the less motivated the advisor is. I would know, I am one, however, I don't play those games. Some techs are worse than others. Just like some drivers are better than others, so forth and so on.
 

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The dealer called me back and said that the car needs a reflash that is not out yet from Mazda. Basically, when my car sits overnight. If i dont let it warm up long enough, the light comes on. If I do, then it wont come on. So, guess I'll be waiting till the reflash comes out for it.
 

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The dealer called me back and said that the car needs a reflash that is not out yet from Mazda. Basically, when my car sits overnight. If i dont let it warm up long enough, the light comes on. If I do, then it wont come on. So, guess I'll be waiting till the reflash comes out for it.[/b]

this is true
If I warm my car before driving in extreme cold, the CEL P2006 DOES NOT appear
If I scoot after a few seconds, it sometimes trips the P2006 code
 
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