I decided to make a new thread (from my previous one) to talk specifically about power and exhaust. IIRC, the car, in stock form, makes 270HP/280TQ. If I wanted to get a gain of, say, 50, what are some of the best ways to get there? I'm thinking one of the first things I would prefer to do is swap out exhaust with something that sounds a little beefier than stock (HP gains minimal). I'd also want to do stuff that would be safe for the motor / turbo. What have others' experiences been? Thanks.
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1) the car, in stock form is rated at 270hp. It does not make 270hp.
2) search the forum for SRIs, Cobb APs, and downpipes. There are, like literally, hundreds of threads on this.
-a
2) search the forum for SRIs, Cobb APs, and downpipes. There are, like literally, hundreds of threads on this.
-a
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go with a SRI or CAI first its usually everybody first mod, car breathes better, sounds better and despite the power increases being not hugely significant you will certainly notice a difference. I have the Cobb SRI which is what i would definitely recommend. and after that i would recommend the Cobb Access port so you can take full advantage of your COBB SRI if you go that route and any other modifications you plan to add by being able to tune the car through the Cobb AP. the new ECU flash you will get from the maps installed on the AP will also defintellyyy add some power. if you rlli want something for you exhaust first get a test pipe. there cheap, pretty easy to install, and give significant gains for the price.
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Inhale/exhale mods usually come first. Intake & inlet pipe (I prefer SRI), downpipe or test pipe & cat back. Blow off valve if you want even more cool sounds. Then intercooler. ATR if you want to tuning to maximize your gains & efficiency. Suspension mods too if that's your thing (definitely my thing).
Most stock MS6's were dynoing about 220 or so to the wheels. Intake, inlet, exhaust (with downpipe or test pipe), bov, intercooler & ATR should get you a solid 270 or so to the wheels.
Most stock MS6's were dynoing about 220 or so to the wheels. Intake, inlet, exhaust (with downpipe or test pipe), bov, intercooler & ATR should get you a solid 270 or so to the wheels.
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Be careful with the order of things. Many have reported the need for tuning and a HPFP after a downpipe.
-a
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Tuning is ideal even after just an intake. I never ran a tune until I was pretty well bolted and even then it's still only a zeroed out map (don't judge me - full dyno tune after the 3071 in a few weeks lol). With just intake & exhaust you won't NEED tuning and damn sure won't NEED to upgrade the fuel pump. Though they would both be very IDEAL.
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WIN!
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I think your using "exhaust" and "downpipe" interchangebly. My comment is specific to downpipes. Many with dashhawks, and APs report logging post downpipe fuel pressure to be dangerously low.
Just sayin. ...and not judgin ;-)
-a
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Fair enough. I was just going by my experience and others in general not specific to the MS6/MS3. Somehow never came across any threads mentioning that in my 3+ years on these Mazda boards :headscrat: (& I only occasionally lurk MSF). I wasn't pinning them in the same category either - downpipe and catback are two separate entities, may have come across that way tho. I never saw fuel pressures that low after my full downpipe install. Tho I have upgarded my CDFP now anyway so I'm safe either way 
One thing I will note is downpipes really let loose the smoking turbo if yours doesn't smoke already. Mine smoked stockish, but was noticeably worse after all my mods. But it's probably one of the biggest gains from a single mod on this platform.
One thing I will note is downpipes really let loose the smoking turbo if yours doesn't smoke already. Mine smoked stockish, but was noticeably worse after all my mods. But it's probably one of the biggest gains from a single mod on this platform.
I am assuming the stock 270 was supposed to be flywheel, and not to the wheels. If so, that seems like a lot of loss. I was thinking of a SRI a little while ago (specifically the COBB) and then I kept reading folks commenting that SRIs are ineffective b/c of the air temperature they pull the air in from the engine bay.
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all factory cars are rated at the flywheel. and that loss is about right for an AWD drivetrain
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Like GNY said it goes right along with the ricer math for drivetrain HP loss - 10% loss for FWD, 15% loss for RWD, 20% loss AWD. The difference in power between CAI and SRI are negligible. SRI's are more convenient and just look better imo. Next time a buddy with a CAI turns the car off after driving a while pop the hood and and grab the intake pipe. There's nothing cold about a cold air intake. That's what intercoolers are for anyway.
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548 Posts
exactly what he said. your car is equiped with an intercooler, not the best but a pretty good one for a factory car. a sri is cheaper and easier and you will realize that it comes on and off with just about every thing you do under the hood so get the one that easier to install/remove. the temp difference is a non issue, you heat the fuck out of the air as it passes the turbo and is compressed anyway.
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6,285 Posts
get a dashhawk so you can keep your toy safe!
-SRI, TIP & Rear Motor Mount (dog bone mount)
-Strap the rear diff for the now
-one step colder plugs
-test pipe or gut the secondary cat
-AccessPORT, off the shelf Stage2 map & TUNE THE MAF!!!
-Rear diff mounts (& rear sway while your up there) (replaces the strap listed above)
-HPFP upgrade- Internals or bolt on
-EBCS
-DP & Exhaust
-IC of preferred flavor (TMIC or FMIC)
Somewhere along the way work on the suspension set-up: a set of SPC Adj. Ball Joints and a respectable alignment, and the springs or C/O's
DO YOUR BRAKES! Your brake fluid has timed out if nothing else (fluid swap every 3ish years), even a good chance for a stage 1 brake upgrade.....
There's plenty more
-SRI, TIP & Rear Motor Mount (dog bone mount)
-Strap the rear diff for the now
-one step colder plugs
-test pipe or gut the secondary cat
-AccessPORT, off the shelf Stage2 map & TUNE THE MAF!!!
-Rear diff mounts (& rear sway while your up there) (replaces the strap listed above)
-HPFP upgrade- Internals or bolt on
-EBCS
-DP & Exhaust
-IC of preferred flavor (TMIC or FMIC)
Somewhere along the way work on the suspension set-up: a set of SPC Adj. Ball Joints and a respectable alignment, and the springs or C/O's
DO YOUR BRAKES! Your brake fluid has timed out if nothing else (fluid swap every 3ish years), even a good chance for a stage 1 brake upgrade.....
There's plenty more
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This has always been my understanding as well. Better to get most of your bolt on's out of the way and then tune.
I am patiently waiting my CP-E TMIC, then I think it's time to bite the bullet on an AP.
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55 Posts
TIP means turbo inlet pipe, and fair warning it is not an easy install. And be careful of the DP, I have heard multiple times of turbo seals going bad and turbos going out after install. Definitely go with tip/Sri and a tune. I plan on doing more so I'm not tuning until I get all bolt ons.
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I am not sure of your familiarityof the MS6, but do not approach this car like a Civic. This engine and tuning require a lot more attention and finesse.
I would say think hard about what you want from the car, and more so what you are willing to do and deal with to get it. With every mod comes a pay-off and consequence. Some mods like DP can add nice gains but also may not be the best for reliability. So answer those questions before anything.
I would say think hard about what you want from the car, and more so what you are willing to do and deal with to get it. With every mod comes a pay-off and consequence. Some mods like DP can add nice gains but also may not be the best for reliability. So answer those questions before anything.
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My TIP install took no more than 1/2hr. Woulda taken no more than 45mins either had I still had a tmic. I agree with everything else you said tho.
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