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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just got. My 06 speeed 6 just wondering about my mod path. Should I got with a intake and AP or should I get a turbo back exhauste? Also what is the max safe range onj. Boost pressures with the stock turbo and top mount? Thanks for the help.
 

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Hey guys just got. My 06 speeed 6 just wondering about my mod path. Should I got with a intake and AP or should I get a turbo back exhauste? Also what is the max safe range onj. Boost pressures with the stock turbo and top mount? Thanks for the help.
What do you plan on doing down the road, and what are you tryint to accomplish? If you get the turboback, you'll get very noticeable gains primarily from the downpipe. I think you'd get more gains from the TB than stage 1 + SF, but they would guess they would probably be pretty similar. Plus, you'll be almost all set up to run stage 2 when you get an AP down the road. I forget the boost you get with stage 1, but it's on cobb's website. Same for stage 2.. I think 17.5 PSI +/- 1.5PSI. That's about where I'm at.

There are also a few other upgrades that'll you'll want to adress first (or asap). You'll need a upgraded rear diff mount (CPE and SU makes one), as they are prone to fail (visit the "broken diffs/axels thread"). The alignment sucks stock and you'll want the SPC front camber adjustabe ball joints. You can live without them, but you'll probably chew through tires. Also, if you get the AP, you need to make sure your fuel pump can keep up with the fuel demand. You may be okay with the Stage 1 + SF, or you're fuel pump may not be able to keep up. Im on stage 2 and my fuel pump is ok, but not by a lot (that's next for me). Also, I ran the stage 1 for a bit before stage 2, and actually had quite a more knock than the stage 2 set up. That may have just be me though.

THere's some other stuff, but I digress. Personally, I started with the SF+ TIP. However, if I had the coin at the time and no warranty, I wouldn't gone with the TB setup.

To sum: I'd get the diff mounts, TB, then then SF + TIP, Cobb AP and run stage 2, and get a pro-tune if you have the loot.

Just my $.02 Good luck, and congrats on the MS6! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks this is just the rite up I was looking for. Just to clearify what is a sf+tip? I'm gona say turbo inlet pipe and idk the other lol that's a bunch.
 

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Cai and a full 3 inch turbo back. A cat back does make a difference but better just to get the whole system
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Just an fyi, i dont plane on pushing huge hp numbers just want top do a turbo back, intake and the the AP just to manage everything and keep a better eye on vitals. Id like to keep the top mount too, so no crazy boost pressures. So im just wondering if the rear diff mount is a must for me? Thanks guys
 

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If I recall correctly the SF is Cobb's Short Ram Intake. The rear diff isn't really a must in your case imho, but it will add a lot of reassurance that they won't snap. There have been stock guys that have broken theirs before.

For you, I'd say just the rear diff mount (not Turbine Tech's forward rear diff mount), rear motor mount, TBE, Short ram intake/TIP, BOV, and an AP and you should be set ;)
 

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Just an fyi, i dont plane on pushing huge hp numbers just want top do a turbo back, intake and the the AP just to manage everything and keep a better eye on vitals. Id like to keep the top mount too, so no crazy boost pressures. So im just wondering if the rear diff mount is a must for me? Thanks guys
With a TB exhaust, TMIC, SF/SRI, TIP, and AP with a professional tune (~$500), and you'll be making pretty big numbers whether you like it or not ;) The TBE is great so you can run Stage 2. With that set-up, your car will be waay faster than stock. Keep in mind you may need to upgrade your fuel pump as the stock one may not be sufficient (yours may be... you'll know when you get the AP.. it varies).

If I recall correctly the SF is Cobb's Short Ram Intake. The rear diff isn't really a must in your case imho, but it will add a lot of reassurance that they won't snap. There have been stock guys that have broken theirs before.

For you, I'd say just the rear diff mount (not Turbine Tech's forward rear diff mount), rear motor mount, TBE, Short ram intake/TIP, BOV, and an AP and you should be set ;)
^This. Yeah, the rear diff one is the most important... that's the only one I picked up and I just had it installed. That's because I was getting my AP and running Stage 2, and I know I'd be romping on it, and I want to hit the track this summer. Do not launch your car without the upgraded rear diff mount. The stock BOV is fine imho, but many people like aftermarket ones.
 

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This a great thread, I went through a similar what-to-buy issue.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdaspeed6/232010-i-ve-got-much-money-what-buy.html
So far I've accumulated an ETS TMIC, PG Full Length SRI, Forge BPV, SU Boost Tubes, and a TWM Stg1 Short Shifter. Looking for a used Cobb AP and SM-OCC in my pricerange. Install to commence as soon as the AP is found.

Upon needing tires next, I'll be doing the SBC Balljoints and a set of RX8 5-spokes because the stock MS6 rims are such a pain to clean, and the RX8's are totally sexXxorz!

At some point, front and rear dif mounts will be going in... probably when it's out of warranty, and I'll do a full round of fluid swaps then too.

I think that'll do it for mod's on this car. If anybody ever starts selling a left exhaust exit bumper surround delete, I'll go with a full 3" resonated and Mangaflowed single-exit keeping the stock DP... something quiet and deep. Then I'll be done. If I ever move somewhere with 93octane, a Stg2 protune maybe be in order. Then I'll be done... on second thought, I may never be done.
 

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At some point, front and rear dif mounts will be going in... probably when it's out of warranty, and I'll do a full round of fluid swaps then too.
Move the rear diff to the top of your list. As for warranty issues, the dealer wouldn't cover the cost to repair the broken diff, axels, etc. if it fails, which the CPE one will not. They can't say "your upgraded rear diff mount caused the engine to blow." Though I bet they would try, lol. The stock one can fail (see broken diff/axles thread) and then you'd have to reverse to stock and have your car all busted when it was avoidable.
 

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Move the rear diff to the top of your list.
You're correct on all accounts... I'm just dreading the potential ALL DAY ordeal the dif mounts are going to be. I know I can do all the power mods in an hour or two and be driving with damn near +100ftlbs on the top-end, and then double the chance of breaking the dif... but I'm still putting the dif off for all the wrong reasons. My bad:(
 

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You're correct on all accounts... I'm just dreading the potential ALL DAY ordeal the dif mounts are going to be. I know I can do all the power mods in an hour or two and be driving with damn near +100ftlbs on the top-end, and then double the chance of breaking the dif... but I'm still putting the dif off for all the wrong reasons. My bad:(
I'm glad that was helpful, and I can sympathize with you. It sucks dropping loot on a mod that give you no power. I was putting mine off, but I was lightly modded with just the SF+TIP+CBE (still no excuse, lol). I never launched, but I was sweating it for sure. I then got the CPE rear diff mount, and SU rear engine bone mount which went in next (along with the SPC ball joints). I wanted that diff in before I got my TP and AP to run stage 2. After the diff when in, it was a huge relief (I was grannying it the week before it was installed, lol). I got the TP and AP about a week later, and worry free =)

EDIT: Sorry, some of this is redundant to my previous post... it's late, I'm still a little hungover, and I'm tired! Also, yeah I heard that rear diff mount is a pita... I paid 3 bills to get mine installed.
 

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Maybe it doesn't give you power. But it puts all the power to the wheels with no drivetrain flex. Now the car just shits and gets.

As far as mods my top ten
1. Intake-prefer SRI
2. Exhaust- depending on where you are going. Get a test pipe instead of a DP $ purposes
3. BOV
4. Dashhawk-u wanna read vitals. This will be a very vital tool
5. Boost gauge- once you hook up a standback the dash hawk will no longer read the correct boost
6. Diff mount upgrades-a stock car will break those mounts if you shift hard
7. Intercooler- what type really depends on a bunch of things
8. motor mounts-u can never be to safe
9. coil overs
10. standback or ap- once you have all these mods you will be hooked
 

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Just an fyi, i dont plane on pushing huge hp numbers just want top do a turbo back, intake and the the AP just to manage everything and keep a better eye on vitals. Id like to keep the top mount too, so no crazy boost pressures. So im just wondering if the rear diff mount is a must for me? Thanks guys

So, here's my spin on all this-

Your budget -vs- your goals & all that stuff.....

How much coin did you want drop on the first round of mods? I suspect you've learned by this time that the diff mounts are not inexpensive, and there are two of them that should be upgraded. They are also somewhat involved to install, what with dropping the diff & all that entails. Which means that if your going there, you might as well install a rear sway bar as well (Whiteline seems popular).

Just saying that if your going up in there, best bet is to only go once.....


If your wondering about $, and all fun stuff you want to do early on in the project, yet still worried about the diff mounts (& rightly so, every speed6 owner should be!), you have the inexpensive temp solution of strapping the rear diff.

diff strapping 101 - clicky-clicky

Yes, strapping is kinda ghetto, but it is a very effective fix with instant results you will feel on the butt dyno- you'll be amazed at how much more, um...., "direct" the power to the ground feels when the rear diff isn't moving around.

I've been strapped for over a year, and have no issues with it. I will get the mounts, but for me they will be part of the rear sway bar install, not the other way around. Again, only going in there once.....

Shorter version- you DO need to do the diff. You WANT to only go there once. When you go is optional...

There ya go, that's what I think about diff mounts. :)



DashHawk.
Buy one.
Love it like a child & it will help save your ride.

No, it's not an option. Go. Buy. Now.

Yes, the AP logs & displays. Don't care, how come you don't have a DH yet?





OK, so now you have maybe exhaust, maybe intake, whatever.
Know that resetting the ECU on this car is only a few moments with the negative battery cable disconnected.
- Intake install? don't forget to disconnect the battery for a moment.
- Give the MAF a good cleaning? don't forget to disconnect the battery for a moment.

you see a trend here.....

This is where the DH comes in- the Speed lives & dies on fuel trims (short term & long term), and you'll want to watch & log things like MAF voltage, Fuel pressure (DISI runs easily in the 1700lbs range), Knock Retard (KR) & an interesting variety of finicky points.

All of which the DH will monitor & log with ease.
All of which will change every time you change your set-up.

Ordered your DH yet?



That should give you something to ponder....
 

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For cost concerns, most of the stuff we're talking about here comes up often'ish in the Classifieds.
 

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Just a note, I've placed order for my CP-E rear diff mount last week but it was on back-order. (from RPMStore)

I'm still waiting for mine to be shipped out, and was given an estimated time of 2-3 more weeks of waiting.

You might want to place order now I guess, i didn't ask how many units they're expecting.
 

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Give CP-e a call. Or call cancel the order and call Streetunit. I know they have tons of the stiff diffs.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey guys just an update on what i wound up ordering. I went with the AP and intake and tip, just because the tbe has the highest jump in torque, and id like to keep lots of torque away from the rear diff mount. Next will be the diff mount, then turbo back possibly fuel pump too if needed. I want to run the AP up front on the modd list because i would like to get the most outa the intake, keep the car from running to rich or lean, ect. Also i really like that i can use a fuel econo map :). I dont plane on driving hard till i get that diff mount though just to play safe.

Oh my intake was back ordered till april 14 so that kinda sucks.
Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Not a bad plan man ;) Enjoy. BTW, you can check into CP-E's SRI to see if there's no back order. Call up StreetUnit and see what options they have available in stock. They'll get it shipped out to ya in a jiffy if they've got it.
 

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Hey guys just an update on what i wound up ordering. I went with the AP and intake and tip, just because the tbe has the highest jump in torque, and id like to keep lots of torque away from the rear diff mount. Next will be the diff mount, then turbo back possibly fuel pump too if needed. I want to run the AP up front on the modd list because i would like to get the most outa the intake, keep the car from running to rich or lean, ect. Also i really like that i can use a fuel econo map :). I dont plane on driving hard till i get that diff mount though just to play safe.

Oh my intake was back ordered till april 14 so that kinda sucks.
Thanks for the help guys.
The only fuel economy map that you should run is the keeping out of boost by not using your right foot.
 

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I went with the AP and intake and tip, just because the tbe has the highest jump in torque, and id like to keep lots of torque away from the rear diff mount.
Keep in mind that the Stage 1 power gains are +17% hp, and + 14% tq, according to Cobb. I'm not sure if that's supposed to be crank or wheel, but if it's crank that's ~320hp, and 316tq or an increase in tq of +36 (316-280). The point being, don't beat on your rear diff anymore with the AP running Stage 1, because the tq increases are similar to that of adding a dp. Maybe you could go with the diff "strap-on" in the meantime to be safe. Just something to keep in mind.
 
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