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Does anyone know what the milage rating for the stock Michillene (17") tires are? I hit a pot hole and now my front tire has a buldge on the side-wall...hence a bumpy ride now. I have about 22k miles on the car...so I need to know if I am better off trying to replace the affected tire or just get all new tires.
 

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No mileage warranty on these, but im at 45 k right now, and still got a lil bit to go prolly about 5 k max!
 

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it all depnds on your driving style, but there are many threads about this topic, just search and you will find them easily.
 

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Does anyone know what the milage rating for the stock Michillene (17") tires are? I hit a pot hole and now my front tire has a buldge on the side-wall...hence a bumpy ride now. I have about 22k miles on the car...so I need to know if I am better off trying to replace the affected tire or just get all new tires.
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Well, you usually have to replace two tires, not just one, because of the 22K miles on the current set (new tires on front, old on back, or vice versa). Considering the 17" OEMs run close to $200 PER TIRE, that's over $400 with installation, balancing, etc. There are a lot of good quality tires in our size that are around $100 (or less) per tire. So, for the price of two Michelin replacements, you can have 4 brand new tires, with better performance, ride, grip, than the craptastic OEMs...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, you usually have to replace two tires, not just one, because of the 22K miles on the current set (new tires on front, old on back, or vice versa). Considering the 17" OEMs run close to $200 PER TIRE, that's over $400 with installation, balancing, etc. There are a lot of good quality tires in our size that are around $100 (or less) per tire. So, for the price of two Michelin replacements, you can have 4 brand new tires, with better performance, ride, grip, than the craptastic OEMs...
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I kind of figured that would be the case. I really need new tires so bare with my question since I don't have time to search the forums. What would be a good set of tires to get for my car that would be better than the stock tires but less money?
 

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. . . my front tire has a buldge on the side-wall...hence a bumpy ride now. . .
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that's no good. you should really replace your tires. if you opt to replace two of your tires with a different brand, take the specs of the new tires into account, i.e. diameter, tread width, etc. if you replace only two, consider putting them in the front, or rear, but not on the same side. my vote would be for fronts. or rears.
 

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I kind of figured that would be the case. I really need new tires so bare with my question since I don't have time to search the forums. What would be a good set of tires to get for my car that would be better than the stock tires but less money?
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Your timing is pretty good: I have just been through that decision matrix. We purchased our '04 wagon at the end of April, and I knew from the start that we would have to replace the OEM tires before the winter rains came to Portland, because all season tires get greasy on wet pavement. So I spent six months weighing our options, and pulled the trigger on four new tires at the end of October.

Portland gets a lot of rain in the winter, but very rarely sees any snow (and when it does snow, I leave the car in the garage), so we face somewaht different weather than you see in Cleveland. If I were in your situation, I'd buy a second set of cheap wheels and put a pair (or two pair) of Nokian Hakkas or Hankook Ice Bear W300 winter tires on the Mazda6, and leave them there until the threat subsides at the beginning of March. I simply would not mess with running any half-measure tire on Lake Effect snow.

As to tires for the other nine months (or for all year round here in Portland), here are your best bets:

o When Car and Driver magazine ran a test of eleven tires for the December 2005 issue, the Goodyear Eagle GS-D3 was the clear winner. That full test is available, as a.pdf file, on the Car and Driver website, but it takes some digging to find it and download it. The GS-D3 does not come in a 215/50R17 size, so you will have to go with 225/50R17; it fits (that is, it definitely clears the suspension arm in front, and I assume it does not rub on the inside of the lip of the rear fender).

o Strictly from a performance standpoint, probably the best tire available in a size to fit our 17" OEM wheels is the Yokohama ADVAN Sport. Again, it does not come in a215/50R17 size, so in that tire, you get a 205/55R17. Two minor caveats for this choice are that, in the 205/55R17 size, the load rating is 91 (SL), compared to the 93 (XL) load rating of the OEM Michelins. However, the owner's manual recommends downrating the Michelins by inflating them to just 32psi, so you have more than ample excess load capacity if you inflate the ADVAN Sports to 35psi. Second, the UTQG treadwear of the ADVAN Sport is 180, which means you will be getting new tires pretty much every year if you mount them at the front, where most of the Mazda6 tire wear occurs. Whether the incredible stickiness of the ADVAN Sport is worth the more frequent replacement is a question only you can address.

o Continental's new ContiSportContact 3 looks very promising, and has been getting rave reviews in Europe. Again, it is not available in 215/50R17, and the substitute 225/50R17 size, the availability of which Continental announced months ago, has yet to make its way through the distribution pipeline in North America, so availability is probably a couple months away.

Although I purchased four tires at once, I did not purchase four identical tires. Instead, I emulated the Pirelli P Zero "system" and mounted directional tires at the front (Goodyear Eagle GS-D3, 225/50R17) and asymmetrical tires at the rear (Yokohama ADVAN Sport, 205/55R17). Because the rear tires on the Mazda6 wear slowly, the treadwear rating of the ADVAN Sports is much less of a factor there. The overall diameter of both pairs of tires, all four tires inflated to 35psi, mounted on the OEM rims, is identical when unloaded, despite the different size specifications. The size of the contact patches of all four tires are also the same when the tires bear the same load. Moreover, by having tires with a wide contact patch that is short longitudinally at the front and tires with a longer longitudinal but narrower contact patch at the rear, I have a "reverse staggered" arrangement that serendipitously reduces the Mazda6's notorious understeer.

After I have put some more miles on this tire combination, and also after I get a RoundTuit, I intend to post a detailed report of my experience on this forum. But the initial results are very positive.

that's no good. you should really replace your tires. if you opt to replace two of your tires with a different brand, take the specs of the new tires into account, i.e. diameter, tread width, etc. if you replace only two, consider putting them in the front, or rear, but not on the same side. my vote would be for fronts. or rears.
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The "book" is to put your better tires at the rear. However, with a front-wheel-drive car and the need for snow traction, the rules might be bent for slow-speed driving in snow.
 

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The "book" is to put your better tires at the rear. However, with a front-wheel-drive car and the need for snow traction, the rules might be bent for slow-speed driving in snow.
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No. Stick with the better tires in back. My mother had two new tires installed on her FWD a few years back, and ended up fishtailing a lot through intersections when the roads were snow-covered.
 

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My wifes 04 wagon has ~55k miles and we just replaced the stockers with new wheels/tires. the stock tires were down to the wear bars. would have replaced then 2 months ago, but took that long for the new wheels to get here from Japan!!!
 
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