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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone, I just picked up a speed 6 friday, and was wondering. How hard are MBC'c to install and take out for when I have to take it to the dealer? also do you think it would be safe to get one to hold stock boost to redline running on 91 octane? Also do you have to get a boost gauge to be able to set your boost levels, or is there some other way to tell?

Thanks
 

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Boost gauge is deffinately required. Some EBCs have this integrated into the display and have a few nice tricks too, but they cost alot more. 91 should be just as fine at stock levels as without a controller.
 

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I would definitely not do it on 91 octane. Your car is already makeing much less power than stock with 93 octane, and is pulling timeing and boost as it is. You will have much more detination and your car could possibly sustain engine damage if you override the computer pulling boost and timeing because of detination from improper octane.
 

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In Oregon our 92 is better than most states 93. Never had a problem with it either. I would call a performance shop and see what the recommend and how good the 91 is in your area. I have ran 91 in a car I tuned for 93 and didn't have a problem there either. If your car has a problem with 91 and you increase the boost and get knock the knock sensor will pull timing before the knock causes a problem. If it continues then the ecu will put the check engine light on.
 

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I would definitely not do it on 91 octane. Your car is already makeing much less power than stock with 93 octane, and is pulling timeing and boost as it is. You will have much more detination and your car could possibly sustain engine damage if you override the computer pulling boost and timeing because of detination from improper octane.
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actually, 91 doesnt hurt performance all that much. mustang dyno on 91 octane:



here on 93+ octane on mustang dyno:





i understand these are different dynos and you cant compare different dynos. the purpose of me showing these is to give you an average so you can see that running 91 vs. 93 doesnt really have much of a deviation.
 

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well, as you said, different dynos read much differently. We have stock cars running 93 octane with variations of 30 or more whp, that are tested on different dynos. Cant really compare....your 91 octane dyno could be skewed high, and your 93 could be skewed low for all we know - and there could be a 40 whp difference in power. I just know that our cars need 93 to run right. I mean, I get detonation and boost retard (hiccups) sometimes and I probably just had a batch of bad 93 octane gas. I have never run anything but 93 in my car, again it just comes down to the fact that even mazda says that 93 is necessary. Look at the infamous runs in the magazines using 91 octane - very marked decrease in power.
 

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I religiously ran varying mixes of plain ol' 91 and 100 octane unleaded since when my car was new (from 3 gallons of 100 topped off with 91 all the way up to pure 100 octane) and to be honest, I've switched to running just 91 octane Chevron and don't notice any difference.

I don't have any dyno's, but I could feel no SOTP difference, and my boost gauge reported no variances in boost from running the higher octane mixes to the Chevron 91. I've stuck with my switch, not being able to justify paying $5 a gallon for 100 octane.

In fact, the one time I think I may have had some powerloss was with a mix that should have yielded about 95-96 octane. Believe me, if I thought I was getting better performance, I'd still be shelling out for the $5 a gallon 100 octane, but I just can't tell a difference. I think the key is to buying a *quality* 91, and not piss discount 91 (like Arco, etc). My car is a 10/05 build without reflash and on a recent road trip I was doing 5th/6th gear passes with the car loaded with 5 adults+luggage uphill and no powerloss at all running 91 Chevron.

Now, I can't comment on modifying boost levels and boost holds to redline with the MBC, but I wouldn't write off 91 completely. You might want to bump it up just to be safe though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hmmm interesting, how hard are they to install and remove? would it be a practical thing to be able to take it in and out for trips to the dealer? or would it be a 3 hour job to put it in and take it out... also is there any way the dealer could tell it was installed?
 

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I've got an ebc sitting in my closet, brand new if interested. I've got to get some pics so I can post it in the for-sale secion.
 

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I've got an ebc sitting in my closet, brand new if interested. I've got to get some pics so I can post it in the for-sale secion.
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I know this isnt the for-sale section, but what kind of ebc is it?
 

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IT IS safe as long as you dont raise the boost!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So right now my boost seems to peak at around 3000--4500 or 5000k and im guessing that peak is at 15.6 right? after that it tapers off, I just want to hold that 15.6 psi to redline. also how hard are ebc's and mbc's to install?

also thanks for everyones help, im still a bit new to turbo cars
 

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I know this isnt the for-sale section, but what kind of ebc is it?
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It's a Blitz Dual SBC Spec S.
 
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