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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
MAZDASPEED 6 / MAZDA 6 MPS | noob thread / summary GUIDE for NEW OWNERS

MAZDASPEED 6 / MPS | noob thread / summary GUIDE for NEW OWNERS

NOTE: Everything with a color of RED is important, not that all of this is… but if you are lazy and want to skim look for the red stuff..

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for anything done to your car regarding anything below..

ANOTHER NOTE: I am not affiliated with any links or companies, but I do recommend them as I have had good luck with them myself as well as others on this forum.

PURCHASING: Remember you can purchase from retailers directly from their websites, as well as “group buys” resulting in many people buying the same item, getting that item at a lower price, and under the “for sale” section in the forums buying from people with new/used items, and of course anywhere else online like eBay, and at physical stores, if you can find one.


CHECK WARRANTY STATUS! (for your powertrain warranty)
Get the VIN # and call Mazda USA to make sure the warranty is still in tact/active (depending on how many miles it has). Cars with branded/black listed warranties are NOT eligible for an extended warranty and have no current warranty.
2006 models have a 50Kmile pt warranty | 2007 models have a 64Kmile pt warranty

How much should I pay?
It really depends on your area, and depends on the ever changing economy, but you might be looking for a FINAL price of somewhere around $14K-16K for a 2006 Sport/GT with 30-60K miles. $15K-18K for a 2007 with 20-50K miles. Any more miles just keeping taking money off. $1000 per 25K miles is about right to a point. For options like a sunroof and navigation, expect to pay even more ($1000+). < look at most recent posts



Forums (****LEARN HOW TO USE THE SEARCH FEATURE!!******): < stay in the MS6 area to suite your specific model, good stuff here
(use quotes to search for three letter words. ex: "CAI", "FMM", "CBE", etc... will make life much easier.) < MS3’s and MS6’s here, lots of great useful resources here
***Easier way to search the forums (successfully)***:

Online PDF User manuals
Mazda 6/Mazdaspeed 6 Manuals Online

Online Parts Stores

OEM/Stock parts
RockAuto Auto Parts < best prices for new parts Auto Parts Market < search index for used parts
Online Mazda Parts <OEM Replacement Mazda Parts

Performance parts - Premier MAZDA/MAZDASPEED SPECIALISTS
Revolution Performance Motorsports! Your source for aftermarket performance parts! - Revolution Performance Motorsports!
Home | Custom Performance Engineering
CorkSport Mazda Performance - 360-260-CORK

Animation of our engine in motion:
And drivetrain dynamics:


-Always let your car fully warm up before letting it get into boost (when you feel the turbo kick in). About midway on the temp gauge is where the needle should be, if not wait an extra 5-10min until your oil temp is warm as well (no gauge for this). If it's colder out, wait longer.

-Try and stay out of boost until at least 3000RPM. Read below under "Boost Gauge" to find out more and the reason why.

-If you even need to tow your car: ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU USE A FLATBED, NOT A REGULAR TOW!! The car is AWD and anything other than a flatbed could cause major damage.

Carbon build up thread, good info
*see Oil Catch Can near the bottom of the thread


Be sure to run 93/91 grade, whichever is available. Anything less will detune the car resulting in a huge loss of hp/tq.

Oil Changes
To keep oil from seeping past the turbo seals (problem with this car), use 5W-40 in the winter (if it's cold), and 10W-40 in the summer. Synthetic blend is recommended in the manual, but most use Fully Synthetic.
When to change is up to you. Most recommend every 5,000 if using synthetic, 3,000 if using basic oil.

Checking/Changing your fluids

How to: Brake Job

Part #: Cabin Air Filter (every 25K miles)
How to: How to Install a Cabin Air Filter in a Mazda Speed 6 |

How to: Spark Plugs
All the info about different types you'll ever need:
4 Plugs (4 cyl): NGK Part # 3787 [OEM replacement] $11/ea @

How to: Door teardown


My windows won't go down automatically & I can't control them from the driver's door??!
Happens after the battery is disconnected. Simply roll down EACH window a bit, then back up, holding the button "up" until you hear a couple clicks. ALL SET!

Alignment! You will want to get your alignment checked out ASAP. Mazda's specs have a HUGE range, and are set for a very aggressive stance, which leads to severe uneven tire wear. So if you are looking for more a more even alignment, giving even tire wear...
Also, the front camber is not adjustable stock, if you are interested in adjusting you will need to purchase SPC adjustable BallJoints, then follow the specs for "SPC Ball Joints" in the above thread (scroll to beginning) after they are installed.
SPC Camber Adjustable Ball Joint

WOT (wide open throttle) Stutter Fix
If your car is sputtering/stuttering at WOT

2006 Clutch pedal adjustment (does not apply to some later 2006’s and ALL 2007’s)
If you notice your clutch petal is hard to press down, or is too annoying to operate, you can do two things:
1. Do a simple, quick adjustment which changes where it engages so it is easier to shift (still the same pressure to press however), or 2. Take it to Mazda and beg them to do the “Clutch TSB”, which means they will change out the entire clutch completely under warranty
Adjustment link:
More info:

Rear differential mounts (two mounts holding the rear diff up listed below)
The stock bushings of the mounts are very weak in stock form. If you plan on driving this car casually, don’t worry about this, but if you like some spirited driving once and a while (actually using that gas pedal), these are highly recommended.

1. Rear diff FRONT mount
Turbine Tech Rear Differential Front Mount: MS6
The mount is weak in stock form if you are going to do any heavy/spirited driving

2a. Rear diff REAR mount bushings: Turbinetech
The bushings in this mount are especially weak in stock form, allowing the diff to move around more than it should.

2b. *or* us a Tie Down Strap (instead of getting mounts, however, this is only a temporary fix)
You can strap it with a tie down strap, just make sure when you do this it is even/centered and not pulled to one side..
This is the "poor man's" fix:

2c. *or* replace the Rear diff REAR mount completely
SU Rear Diff Mount: StreetUnit Differential Brace mazdaspeed 6
CPE Rear Diff Mount: CPE Rear Differential Mount for Mazdaspeed 6 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

Smoking Turbo (smoke is coming out of your exhaust pipe when you are sitting idle for 5-10min+.
You might or might not experience this..
Do an oil change, changing to 5W/10W-40 rather than 30. This is a thicker viscosity preventing the oil to seep past the seals anymore

Find a boost leak


1. Use the search in the forums.
2. Here is a directory list made up (MS6 specific): Mazdaspeed Forums
and MS3 how to's (mostly similar to our car, the MS3 is much more popular as there are many more on the road): Mazdaspeed Forums


Adding an auxiliary port for about $10

Fold down rear seats mod SIMPLE & FREE:
ADVANCED w/ Pull Tabs:

Light bulb guide (part #'s) (replace/update all lighting)

All-Weather floor mats (these will fit)
Mazda Mazda6 Floor Mats at

194 LED bulbs eBay link (dome lights, door, lic. plate, headlights) buy 10 total
(link to pics soon)


HID Fog light conversion
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
Go with the 35W, H11 type kit. Color Temp is up to you. It's plug and play
(link to how-to and pics soon)

Black out / tint side markers, brake light, etc. whateva you want

Front 'towPlate' (places your lic. plate off to the side rather than front)
Rho-plate for Mazda or
MazdaSPEED6 TowPlate? | Custom Performance Engineering

Fix rock chips

How To: Fix rock chips

Front low profile lip (cheap as hell) technique
DIY: Home Depot Lip - Forum

Replacement HID headlights (also change color temperature if you want)
HID Kits, BMW Aftermarket Bumpers & Lighting, DEPO - DDM Tuning
stock color is around 5000K

Tail lights

LED Euro: Mazda6 LED Tail Lights - F4D Lighting
Euro: Mazda Mazda6 Tail Light Kit Clear at

*NOTE: Any type of modding could potentially void your factory Mazda warranty!

You want to make your MS6 last longer...

Boost gauge
Reason you want this is to have the ability to monitor the vacuum and boost being put into your engine.
The conjecture is: you want to try and stay out of boost under 3000RPM in 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear, and 3250RPM in 5th gear, and 3500RPM in 6th gear. The car will boost very quickly and easily in all gears, especially at a low RPM in 4-6th gears, so having this installed is helpful to possibly prolonging the life of your engine. Boosting at low RPM's puts much strain on your engine.
Links for a stock look and purchasing resources below:
Mine complete (Vent pod w/ Defi Red Racer gauge):
Defi Red Racer Gauge: Defi Red Racer 52mm Boost Gauge (PSi)
Driver’s side defrost vent pod (this guy makes very high quality custom pods):

OCC (Oil Catch Can) System
“The oil and unclean vapors that once contaminated the intake tract, are captured buy the catch can. By doing this, cleaner air enters the engine, octane rates are not reduced by oil contaminants, and less detonation occurs”
Complete kit w/ directions and support: Performance Automotive Engineering - OCC KITS MAZDASPEED6

Turbo Timer
What this does is keeps your engine running after you turn the key off, get out, lock up, etc. Especially recommended if you drive it heavy (lots of boosting), then quickly shut it off. Allows the turbo to spool back down while oil is running through it, rather than no oil after a quick shut off. OR YOU CAN JUST SIT IN YOUR CAR FOR 10-30seconds and wait.
*For GT models, the doors will not lock automatically, you must "drop window, get out, reach in and manually lock, pull auto-window up, and remove hand."

Scan Tool
Click on the link for more info on this. Basically gives you all the information you will ever need to monitor your car
Dashhawk Scan Tool

Engine build info

Better Suspension (rear)
Whiteline 24mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar for Mazdaspeed 6 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!

You want to get more power out of your MS6..

*most items under “FIXES” and “CATEGORY1” are recommended before you start POWER modding!
*These are just some basic mods to get you started, research/search when you get to learn the car.

Rear engine mount
This keeps the engine stiffer in the bay during strong shifts. Your shifts will be smoother, but you might feel more vibration during idle and lower RPM’s, as well as when the A/C is turned on.
CPE Wishbone Engine Mount MAZDASPEED 6

Front engine mount
Same as above but for the front of the engine, you will notice even more increased stiffness and smoother/quicker shifts
Turbine Tech Front Motor Mount: MAZDASPEED6

K&N Air Filter (a little less restrictive airflow, possibly a 2-5hp/tq gain) *you can wash this filter, rather than replacing it
K&N 33-2279 $45.99 - Replacement Filters, Replacement Air Filter
Audible noise increase: .5 out of 10

Remove intake resonator (instead of CAI/SRI below)
There is no how-to or thread but will hopefully have one up soon...
*It's basically the lower intake box, get to it by removing your wheel well cover, and it comes off with 3 bolts.
Audible noise increase: 2 out of 10 (can only hear when in boost or very close to boosting)

SRI/CAI (Short Ram intake/Cold Air Intake)
SRI is shorter, as the intake filter sits in your engine bay. Very easy to install.
Cobb SRI: Mazdaspeed 6
Audible noise increase: 6 out of 10

CAI is longer, as the intake filter sits in front of your driver's side tire, sucking in colder air. Keep in mind you might suck up water and potentially hydro-lock your engine, if you are worried about this stick with a SRI.
Xcel™ Cold Air Intake for MazdaSPEED6
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10

*With either intake, you will notice a huge jump in noise from the turbo. You will be able to hear it spool now.
*HP/TQ gains are somewhere around 10-15whp/tq

Intake filter/shield (if above is equipped)
Prevents water for easily getting into your intake, which will get into your engine and possibly hydrolock

Turbo Inlet
Allows better airflow into your turbocharger itself, will make your car a bit louder - MS6 Turbo Inlet Hose
Audible noise increase: 2 out of 10

Magnaflow < the quietest of all, but still louder than stock
MagnaFlow Exhaust Products - For Trucks, Suv's, American Muscle, Diesel, & Sport Compact Vehicles
Audible noise increase: 6 out of 10
MazdaSPEED6 3" Cat Back Exhaust
MazdaSPEED6 3" Down-Pipe
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10
ETS MazdaSpeed 6 Exhaust System MZ6EX001
Audible noise increase: 7 out of 10

Piggyback/custom tuning
These tools plug directly into your OBD II port, allowing you to replace your ECU (car’s computer) MAP (data on what to tell the car to do at certain times)
NOTE: Before doing any tuning, consult the mnfcr's required specs (mounts, plugs, TSB's, etc.)
Standback: StandBack™ MazdaSPEED6 < for advanced/intermediate users looking to do custom tuning, some preset tunes available
Access Port: - AccessPORT < for intermediate/beginners looking for preset tunes, as well as doing custom tuning later on
HyperTech: Performance is our Passion - Hypertech < for beginners or people who are looking to stay either stock, or use only bolt on's (no custom tuning here)

Let me know what you guys might want changed, removed, added, etc. and I’ll update the main post as I can..

· Registered
1,293 Posts
Look at you Blaise, all motivated and shit lol.
What, ya trying to apply for mod status?
You're still a ****. Lol

good stuff, now start putting some of this stuff on your ride :)

· Registered
3,568 Posts
Morris isn't gonna like that turbo timer crap, lol. Good work. I think those suggested MS6 purchase prices are for the Sport no? Did the GT or GT w/ Navi slip your mind? lol You could add a breif comparison of the GT vs. Sport in that section too in terms of options. I've seen that Q asked several times. Also the 06/07 warranties differ. I know they're both almost up, but may have extended, etc..

EDIT: I have a GT and the Apexi TT, as does blockhead. He showed me how to lock it in 2 seconds. Drop window, get out, reach in and manually lock, pull auto-window up, and remove hand. Literally takes 2 seconds. Also, there is a way to rig it so you can use the keyless entry, but I never bothered as it didn't look like it was worth the trouble. Thread floating around somewhere.

EDIT 2: I'd definitely get rid of the AEM CAI link, and put the CPE CAI in there instead. The CPE CAI is the only one that properly flows air over the MAF. Others can trip CELs, which people don't like, but more importantly if the MAF isn't reading the airflow properly, you will be having rich and lean spots. I'd explain that as well, but maybe they'll read this post anyways.

EDIT 3: The main benefit of Meth is that the colder intake charge eliminates virtually all knock. It also helps clean your intake mani IIRC. Also for tuning, you may want to mention the Verstuner option that is supposedly being close to release. I know there's a thread dedicated just to that if they wanted to explore that option as well.

Also, under alignment, perhaps let them know the front camber is not adjustable stock, and they will have to buy the SPC ball joints if they want to get the proper spec alignment.

Lastly under WOT sutter fix... the AP's Flat Foot Shifting feature eliminates the WOT stutter as well.

PS. Sorrry for all the edits... should've read the whole thing through first, lol. Good work though Blaise!

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458 Posts
good post.

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619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. Edited. I think I may decide to go away with most advanced performance mods, as I know there is so much to do, and this thread is mainly for n00bs who know virtually nothing when they jump on here.

· Registered
548 Posts
ha ha ha snookie....

· Registered
113 Posts
That post helped me a lot. As a noob I am trying to learn what I should and shouldn't do with / to my car. In fact, thanks for the shopping list!

I am sure there is a post about this, but why do you need to keep outta boost below 3K? Just curious.

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619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That post helped me a lot. As a noob I am trying to learn what I should and shouldn't do with / to my car. In fact, thanks for the shopping list!

I am sure there is a post about this, but why do you need to keep outta boost below 3K? Just curious.
When your car goes into boost at lower RPM's, it puts tons of strain on your engine (more wear and tear). There is a lot more pressure within the engine to get the pistons moving.. I'm no expert but this is said by many, and some have blown their engines (either due to how they might drive, or mods..). So if you want the longest life possible... No low boosting.. :cool: It will take a little getting used to cuz the car likes to boost...

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619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks man...I have seen the "do not boost below 3K" but never actually found an I gotta get me a boost gauge!

One more question...s this only at WOT?
At all points of the gas petal, but more so at WOT I would think.

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6,582 Posts
Needs link to ghettospeed straps for those of us too lazy and poor for mounts!

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619 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Needs link to ghettospeed straps for those of us too lazy and poor for mounts!
True man. I didn't put it on just b/c I thought people would bash me for that, like in the past, but hey, mine is strapped and it only cost me $10!

· Registered
6,582 Posts
People who bash strapping need to suck a dick, because it's all there was for quite some time, before mounts were even available.
And cut us poe folk some slack. They're a great solution until real mounts can be installed.

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548 Posts
the problem i have with the strap is a personal one and shouldn't be an issue with most other people unless you are all like me.....Lazy.

if i installed the strap i would just go on spending the rest of my money on mods without ever getting the true blue mount so i just go easy until i can sneak the $$$ by my girlfriend and of course the fedex or ups guy too. but thats just me.

· Lowspeed
6,285 Posts
that's gospel there.

I've said repeatedly that strapping works unless your a launcher. If your into momentum, strapping is fine. Has been for me for almost two years and never a loose diff bolt.

When I go up in there to mount a sway, I will do diff mounts as well so I'm only in there once, but it's the sway bar that'll make it happen for me.

you will never see me at a drag strip tho.....

Oh- yeah- nice noob thread- was very needed

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3,568 Posts
People who bash strapping need to suck a dick, because it's all there was for quite some time, before mounts were even available. And cut us poe folk some slack. They're a great solution until real mounts can be installed.
Jesus Christ Groceries, you're pretty damn sensitive about those ghetto straps!!! LOL! Cut back on the grocery spending a bit, and set aside a few shillings a month towards some mounts ;) J/K! I never tried the strap-on myself, but I've read from plenty that they do work well. I'm glad TiGray warned not to launch with the straps.... not sure if n00bs would know not to do that.
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