[Dat8687]

I have the bose system but the factory speakers are lacking. I was wondering if you could install after market speakers. Will they work with the Bose system. Is it 2-ohm? Do you have to use 2-ohm or 4-ohm speakers? Also what size bolts into the rear door?

Any help would be nice thank you very much

 

[jd42]

If you are going to replace the factory speakers, I'd suggest tapping into the line level signals from the head unit and using an aftermarket amp. The BOSE amp performs all sorts of wacky volume-dependent EQ to try and make the cheap speakers sound better. I think you'll be happier bypassing this functionality entirely and using a flat signal.

 

[Dat8687]

QUOTE (jd42 @ Jan 24 2010, 08:39 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1631902

If you are going to replace the factory speakers, I'd suggest tapping into the line level signals from the head unit and using an aftermarket amp. The BOSE amp performs all sorts of wacky volume-dependent EQ to try and make the cheap speakers sound better. I think you'll be happier bypassing this functionality entirely and using a flat signal.[/b]

Cool thanks so does it matter what ohm the speaker is? will 4 ohm work?

 

[jd42]

QUOTE (KrGs_MrN-Kusinagi0 @ Jan 24 2010, 11:32 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1632064

Cool thanks so does it matter what ohm the speaker is? will 4 ohm work?[/b]

The appropriate speaker impedance to use will be determined by the amp. Almost any aftermarket amp will drive a 4 Ohm stereo load without problems.

 

[Dat8687]

QUOTE (jd42 @ Jan 25 2010, 08:15 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1632114

The appropriate speaker impedance to use will be determined by the amp. Almost any aftermarket amp will drive a 4 Ohm stereo load without problems.[/b]

Is the stock amp 2ohm impedance? Are the stock speakers 2ohm.. Because I was looking just to replace the speakers I know Infinity sells 2 ohm impedance speakers. I dont want a big install just a little more mids and highs

 

[jmhinkle]

Yes the Bose crap is 2Ohm. Replacing the speakers will sound a tiny bit better, but not much because of the stupid processing the amp does. It is fairly easy to upgrade the stereo system in the car as I'm currently doing it. The doors of the car are built very well and dropping in real speakers and a good SQ amp will sound a million times better. It doesn't have to break the bank either. A good 5 channel amp will drive everything and there is a cheap upgrade for the rear deck sub too.

 

[premio]

QUOTE (jmhinkle @ Jan 25 2010, 10:53 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1632344

Yes the Bose crap is 2Ohm. Replacing the speakers will sound a tiny bit better, but not much because of the stupid processing the amp does. It is fairly easy to upgrade the stereo system in the car as I'm currently doing it. The doors of the car are built very well and dropping in real speakers and a good SQ amp will sound a million times better. It doesn't have to break the bank either. A good 5 channel amp will drive everything and there is a cheap upgrade for the rear deck sub too.[/b]

I respectfully disagree completely about not breaking the bank see Another audio thread. I personally found replacing just the amp and speakers to be worse than Bose. A processor or a nice HU is a must.

The doors have nice plastic boxes that help midbass, really surprised they weren't free air.

 

[jmhinkle]

It is already a proven fact, by JL Audio not me, that our head unit puts out a flat 2V signal that only needs converted to RCA connections. The HU does no processing at all and has no holes in the output. A cleansweep is completely useless. The stock HU does everything a normal person would need. If you are trying to win shows then that is a different story, but for 95% of humans you need nothing more than some good amps and good speakers to bring the system to life. It's amazing what you can find 2nd hand for dirt cheap, but still new in box. Amps are only as expensive as you are willing to pay. Many people are obsessed with the new and now, when you can pick up old school amps that still sound better than the new stuff. Processing is absolutely not needed at all in the Speed for anything less than a complete sound competition car. Do your research and pick the right pieces and it doesn't have to be expensive at all. I got really lucky and a lot of research netted me $150 worth of speakers that sounds fabulous in the car. I wanted specific amps, so I dropped $450 on two of the most sonically pure amps ever made. Worth every penny too and I wouldn't trade them for anything newer ever. $600 and the system was done basically. Subs are a different animal so price depends on what you want to do. It can still be done cheaply if you are a smart shopper. For most, the eD in the rear deck and a good Class D to drive it and you would be set for the life of the car. That only set me back about $150. Do I have another sub? Yes, but that was because the stock system had no bottom end at all and I did that back in the beginning trying to fix the Blows. I have about $300 in a shallow 12 and amp in the trunk, but that's over the top for a normal person. Did I buy a processor in the end? Yes, I bought a DQXS and DDC, but only because I like to press buttons and I couldn't pass a deal for the combo at $380 shipped. Did I need them? Not at all. The system sounded great without it and they are completely useless and confusing to a normal person. If I did it over, I could probably do it cheaper and still sound good. Not the same as mine, but quite good none the less. If I had more cash, it wouldn't sound much better without a lot of custom work like 3 ways in the front and things I wasn't in need of.

 

[premio]

QUOTE (jmhinkle @ Feb 21 2010, 10:23 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638682

It is already a proven fact, by JL Audio not me, that our head unit puts out a flat 2V signal that only needs converted to RCA connections. The HU does no processing at all and has no holes in the output. A cleansweep is completely useless. The stock HU does everything a normal person would need. If you are trying to win shows then that is a different story, but for 95% of humans you need nothing more than some good amps and good speakers to bring the system to life. It's amazing what you can find 2nd hand for dirt cheap, but still new in box. Amps are only as expensive as you are willing to pay. Many people are obsessed with the new and now, when you can pick up old school amps that still sound better than the new stuff. Processing is absolutely not needed at all in the Speed for anything less than a complete sound competition car. Do your research and pick the right pieces and it doesn't have to be expensive at all. I got really lucky and a lot of research netted me $150 worth of speakers that sounds fabulous in the car. I wanted specific amps, so I dropped $450 on two of the most sonically pure amps ever made. Worth every penny too and I wouldn't trade them for anything newer ever. $600 and the system was done basically. Subs are a different animal so price depends on what you want to do. It can still be done cheaply if you are a smart shopper. For most, the eD in the rear deck and a good Class D to drive it and you would be set for the life of the car. That only set me back about $150. Do I have another sub? Yes, but that was because the stock system had no bottom end at all and I did that back in the beginning trying to fix the Blows. I have about $300 in a shallow 12 and amp in the trunk, but that's over the top for a normal person. Did I buy a processor in the end? Yes, I bought a DQXS and DDC, but only because I like to press buttons and I couldn't pass a deal for the combo at $380 shipped. Did I need them? Not at all. The system sounded great without it and they are completely useless and confusing to a normal person. If I did it over, I could probably do it cheaper and still sound good. Not the same as mine, but quite good none the less. If I had more cash, it wouldn't sound much better without a lot of custom work like 3 ways in the front and things I wasn't in need of.[/b]

I agree JL cleansweep is worthless in this car as the issue is not with the signal. The issue is with speaker proximity to driver, and the modes and nodes created by the interior geometry/fabric/etc. The Bose tuners understood this which is why the AMP EQ's so much to the speakers. Too bad the engineers didn't spec better placement, speakers, up front. My EQ curve on the 3Sixty.2 is redonkulous, but SQ is perfect. I didn't dump money on new, I used my 10 year old JL slash amps :-/ Having to buy 2 amps, 4 speakers, and a HU or processor to adjust timing/eq just somehow will become a lot of money to people. They should realize that it is very hard to do this in phases; that was my plan initially. It's like redoing a kitchen in an old house while everything else still looks antiquated.