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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Not to thread jack, but has anyone ever seen or heard about this supercharger kit?

03-09 V6 Mazda 6 Magnuson MP90 Supercharged Kit NPG Racing
That is the other thread I refer to in my first post. It is very well done, but as you said the cost is too much for basically everybody. I believe he has sold 1 or 2 of them though and I hope to see one up and running soon. The MP90 is capable of higher boost than what I am trying or care to do.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Post 2 on page 1 has been updated.
 
That airbox relocation is bad-ass. Im assuming you arent seeing any water infiltration issues. I am dieing for the rest of the pics! I want to see how you get the piping frm the outlet of the s/c to the throttle body. Looks like a wicked-tite fit. The way the s/c contours around the exhaust is pretty damned slick too ;)
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Post 3 on page 1 has been added/updated.
 
nice work. I'm curious to see what you'll dyno.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
would the v6 make more power with a supercharger set up like this or a single turbo set up?
That is a loaded question, but without getting in too deep, a correctly sized single turbo has the "potential" to make more, but is a lot more complicated to install. Super chargers can de used to make a ton of instant power (like a top fuel dragster), but a turbo can can keep boosting even as engine rpms drop under load (think tractor pulling). Don't know if that helps, but I'm sure others will chime in.
 
I hate to rain on your parade and I know that I'm going to get groaned at for saying this but I've got to point it out...

A M62 is really small for our engine. It will only flow 450CFM at 14k rpms. That works out to about 310HP. Even if you over spin it to 16k rpms, your flow only increases to 500CFM or 345HP.

With your headers and everything else you are probably already in the 260HP region. The supercharger is only going to generate about 3-4psi of boost and that's if you're not running an intercooler (an extremely bad idea with an over-spun roots blower.)

You've done great work with the mounting and fab work. You just may want to change over to an Eaton TVS1320 or to a centrifugal supercharger to make some real power.

More info on the TVS1320...

http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/191817-supercharger-130.html#post3268161


BP
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
nice work. I'm curious to see what you'll dyno.
Thanks, but I'm not sure I will ever actually get it dyno'd. I'd like to, but I would need somebody who knows more about tuning to check it out first to make it worth while. The car runs great and every thing seems fine, but I did the project just to see if I could. If somebody wants to finance a trip to the dyno I would be more than willing.:)
 
dyno runs are usually only $50 for 2 or 3 runs. the more expensive places are like $75 bux. there actually really cheap. its when you get into the tuning portion and have to rent out a dyno for an entire day that they get really expensive.
 
Discussion starter · #34 · (Edited)
I hate to rain on your parade and I know that I'm going to get groaned at for saying this but I've got to point it out...

A M62 is really small for our engine. It will only flow 450CFM at 14k rpms. That works out to about 310HP. Even if you over spin it to 16k rpms, your flow only increases to 500CFM or 345HP.

With your headers and everything else you are probably already in the 260HP region. The supercharger is only going to generate about 3-4psi of boost and that's if you're not running an intercooler (an extremely bad idea with an over-spun roots blower.)

You've done great work with the mounting and fab work. You just may want to change over to an Eaton TVS1320 or to a centrifugal supercharger to make some real power.

More info on the TVS1320...

http://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/191817-supercharger-130.html#post3268161


BP
You are presuming my goal was a huge gain. I just wanted a set-up where I could test the installation without having to get into tuning and to see if it could be done cheaper. If you followed TheGreatNY's turbo build he shows the stock computer can handle boost up to 6.5 psi. The Eaton spec page (M62 Superchargers) for the M62 rates it for 2.5 to 4 liter engines. The one I bought came off a 3.8 liter gm setup and I'm putting it on a 3.0, so I figured it would be a good place to start. Not sure of your math on the boost, but my gauge says I'm making 5 psi no problem at full throttle acceleration and it will go higher if I continue to tighten the blowoff/recirculation valve. Yes, I could add a larger charger (a short snout M90 would fit nicely as well as the one you mentioned) and get more boost, but since when is a 50 to 90 horsepower gain for less than a $1000 a bad thing???? Maybe I'll ask for the TSV1320 for Christmas.
 
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
Post 4 on page 1 updated.
 
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Why don't you fabricate some sort of a "skid plate" that will protect it from the elements, including the snowbanks?
 
a skid plate isnt a bad idea. but how it is now, its getting a ton of fresh air, which has to help the air temp going into the engine. adding a skid plate would take away all that air flow the blower is seeing, and raise the air temps. so its a give and take sort of thing.
 
Looks awesome! In your $1000 or less estimate, does that include eveything including the steel and fabrication? Can I assume you did or had cheap/free access to some fab people/eqpt to fab the outlet/mount plate? Im wondering how you think that fits into a cost estimate for those that dont have fab skills/tooling and would outsource that.

Another question on mounting: My only concern is, as I said before, how low it sits below the engine cradle. You did an excellent job to tuck that baby in there as tight as possible but I am wondering if there is another way to get it up a bit further. Here is my idea...please tell me if it is at all feasable!

Lets assume that your current "clocking" considers the blower outlet as "12'oclock" and my reference POV (Point Of View) as the front of the s/c looking at the snout. That outlet and piping is what appears to be one limiting factor (the exhaust collector as the other for the inlet) on how high you can tuck the blower up near the engine. Would it be possible/practical to rotate the s/c clockwise 90-120 degrees putting the outlet facing the radiator? That could, in my mental picture, move the "bottom" of the s/c, currently at 6 o'clock, to mate closer to the engine and utilize that space better therefore tucking the blower even further up out of harms way. I know its very tight and doing so may be impossible if for no other reason as it would block the inlet which is already snaking around the exhaust collector. Perhaps another custom 90 degree plate for the inlet similar to the outlet to accomidate that?

Along those lines, perhaps the outlet could flow towards the passenger side to a FMIC, which could exit to the TB/engine and clear up some routing/space issues for two 3" pipes. I know I just added more parts/cost/complexity, but some (me included) might want to add an IC for a permanent mounting and even better performance than you already achieved.

I understand that you were trying to stay as low-buck as possible and I applaud your efforts. I would love to try this perhaps some day but the exposure of the blower unprotected is, for me, just too great a risk for curbs or road debri. Thanks again for sharing your build and I am very interested in your thoughts on my idea!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
a skid plate isnt a bad idea. but how it is now, its getting a ton of fresh air, which has to help the air temp going into the engine. adding a skid plate would take away all that air flow the blower is seeing, and raise the air temps. so its a give and take sort of thing.
I actually have 1 inch spacers built into the mount to lower the SC to do exactly that, keep it cool. I'm using the 2.8" pulley that came on the SC and driving it with the 6.5" crank pulley. During typical cruising around with the engine at 3000 rpm the SC is spinning 6964 rpm. After parking it is only warm to the touch. I know it looks low but it is still higher than a lot of other stuff under the car such as: the subframe cross over behind the engine, the stock exhaust resonator and a bunch of rear end suspension parts. Especially when I have people in the rear seat. If my car was lowered it would be bad, but I just avoid speed bumps and curbs.
 
Discussion starter · #40 · (Edited)
Looks awesome! In your $1000 or less estimate, does that include eveything including the steel and fabrication? Can I assume you did or had cheap/free access to some fab people/eqpt to fab the outlet/mount plate? Im wondering how you think that fits into a cost estimate for those that dont have fab skills/tooling and would outsource that.

Another question on mounting: My only concern is, as I said before, how low it sits below the engine cradle. You did an excellent job to tuck that baby in there as tight as possible but I am wondering if there is another way to get it up a bit further. Here is my idea...please tell me if it is at all feasable!

Lets assume that your current "clocking" considers the blower outlet as "12'oclock" and my reference POV (Point Of View) as the front of the s/c looking at the snout. That outlet and piping is what appears to be one limiting factor (the exhaust collector as the other for the inlet) on how high you can tuck the blower up near the engine. Would it be possible/practical to rotate the s/c clockwise 90-120 degrees putting the outlet facing the radiator? That could, in my mental picture, move the "bottom" of the s/c, currently at 6 o'clock, to mate closer to the engine and utilize that space better therefore tucking the blower even further up out of harms way. I know its very tight and doing so may be impossible if for no other reason as it would block the inlet which is already snaking around the exhaust collector. Perhaps another custom 90 degree plate for the inlet similar to the outlet to accomidate that?

Along those lines, perhaps the outlet could flow towards the passenger side to a FMIC, which could exit to the TB/engine and clear up some routing/space issues for two 3" pipes. I know I just added more parts/cost/complexity, but some (me included) might want to add an IC for a permanent mounting and even better performance than you already achieved.

I understand that you were trying to stay as low-buck as possible and I applaud your efforts. I would love to try this perhaps some day but the exposure of the blower unprotected is, for me, just too great a risk for curbs or road debri. Thanks again for sharing your build and I am very interested in your thoughts on my idea!
The position it is in is the only one I could come up with that cleared all the AC parts, which I originally planed to leave on the car. I spent days laying under the car trying to figure out the best way to do it and mocked up several. One had the supercharger mounted in the right fender driven by a reversing belt drive! At one point my wife thought I had passed out under the car. Now that I removed the AC compressor I could easily move it higher. I would only need to redo the inlet to clear the exhaust again, but like I said in the previous post, I like the cooling I'm getting and it has really not been a problem.

Regarding rerouting the outlet tube the opposite way and then back through the front bumper and an intercooler. I acctually made provisions for that in the design if I ever wanted or needed to go there. Right now there is no need. According to my research an intercooler is only of value if you are running higher than 8.5 inches of boost or your inlet temps are higher than 185 degrees. I'm no where near that. I would like to see somebody else try it though.
 
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