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Yes, I understand that a smaller viscosity spread in general, gives a more stable oil.

I was just saying that:

- if the "shearing" is due to fuel dilution, going to 10w30 probably wouldn't be the first thing I'd try -- how's about driving it for 45 - 60min continuously, once a week to try and dry out the crank instead?

- if I was going for a shear stable oil in a turbo charged vehicle, I'd try something like Redline 5w30 first, before going to a 10w30. Redline claims that their oils do not contain any VII, right? Also, the 10w part would give me pause, especially if you are located in a northern climate.

....on another note, why are we getting fuel dilution anyway? This is supposed to be a direct injection (runs super lean) engine -- why is fuel showing up in the oil? Perhaps the addition of a UCL in the gas would help, if there is some wash-down happening in the cylinders?
 

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Discussion Starter #122
This is supposed to be a direct injection (runs super lean) engine -- why is fuel showing up in the oil? [/b]
Probably has something with the excessive A/F ratio the engine is running at such low rpm's. Even just crusing around at 3500 rpm, the engine's A/F is nearly at 10:1. It then continues to stay "at least" that rich all the way to redline. That's quite alot of fuel. My guess as to the reason for this has alot to do with the precat attached to the back of the turbine.

Even so, the fuel dilution is not excessive, though still showing up on the UOA.

As I mentioned earlier, I'd probably run a 10w-30 redline myself, just interested to see what schaffner's says of the second UOA.

There is not a substaintal difference in startup viscosity between a 10w-30 and 5w-30, although I do agree that it would probably be better for those in canada and other northern states to run 0w-30's in the winter.
 

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crossbow would you recommend running redline 10-30 over say mobil1's new "supersyn" 10-30?
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Redline is more expensive. That's a financial decision you have to make. I personally like redline, other's don't. I'd suggest with any oil you choose, to do a Dyson Analysis at 4k miles on the oil, and see what Terry suggestions.

Yes its a chunk of money (45 dollars I think), but you really only need to do it once, or twice in the life of the car, just to make sure everything is ok and working as designed.
 

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Thanks Jax6s. I had been wanting to see a Syntec 5w20 UOA in the mazdas for a while now. Looks like i'll go with Pennzoil Platinum next run.

Are there any more recent mazda UOAs not getting posted on BITOG somewhere?
 

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I sent my first sample to Blackstone Labs on Saturday. I got the results today!
I changed the oil on my car first at 1400 miles. This weekend I changed it for the second time at 6200 miles, and I took an oil sample to see if the factory recommended 5k interval will work for me. I am running full synthetic Mobil 1 5w30.
They didn't have room on the results to get too much into it, but my copper and iron seem to be quite high. Any gurus on here know why that is?

Here is the results:

 

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I'm considering trying this...is that the standard test or the Dyson one?

How much did that cost?
 

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Well it seems to me that you went to Full Syn @ 1400 mi, which most people will say is a little too soon. This may be the reason why at your mileage you are still showing signs of "engine break-in". Having stayed with Dino or semi-syn for say 10-12k and then switch to full syn you might be showing more normal levels. I wouldn't worry too much about it, run another 5k on full syn, and have another test done, see if they drop.

I am no guru, just read a lot.
 

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$20, I guess it was a standard test? Not sure what that means.
Blackstone Labs[/b]
$. 20.00 for the Regular Test (Normal) If you want also the TBN the cost will be $. 30.00

What is a TBN, and who uses it? In short, a TBN (total base number) measures the amount of active additive left in a sample of oil. The TBN is useful for people who want to extend their oil usage far beyond the normal range.

By comparing the TBN of a used oil to the TBN of the same oil in virgin condition, the user can determine how much reserve additive the oil has left to neutralize acids. The lower the TBN reading, the less active additive the oil has left.
 

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Yeah, that is the standard viscosity that we use here. Mazda, Nissan, Toyota, etc.
In Spain also use the 10W-30 / 5W-30
In USA I saw that you use the 5W-20, including the V6

But I also tried one time the Mobil 1 0W-20 was Ok in the test.

With Quaker State the Iron (20) increase in the test.




 

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From Left to Right.
5/31/05 Mobil 1 10W-30 Synthetic
3/24/05 Mobil 1 10W-30 Synthetic
2/3/05 Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic
12/1/04 Quaker State 10W-30 Synthetic
9/21/04 Delta 10W-30 Normal
 

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I sent my first sample to Blackstone Labs on Saturday. I got the results today!
I changed the oil on my car first at 1400 miles. This weekend I changed it for the second time at 6200 miles, and I took an oil sample to see if the factory recommended 5k interval will work for me. I am running full synthetic Mobil 1 5w30.
They didn't have room on the results to get too much into it, but my copper and iron seem to be quite high. Any gurus on here know why that is?

Here is the results:

[/b]
The high wear metals are from engine break-in. Just keep changing the oil every 5k until you get to 20k miles on the engine and those wear numbers will come down drastically.
 
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