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Discussion Starter #1
Mazda6 UOA's

Just decided to collect them all in a single website, so people don't have to search as hard. The top link is to the original uoa, with the bottom link going to the analysis at bobistheoilguy.com.

Latest UOA update 8/11/04. 0w-30 GC Submitted by PisaDong. Thanks Paul!

Mazda 6i UOA's
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option...id=26&Itemid=36

Mazda 6s UOA's
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option...id=26&Itemid=36

More Information on Oil...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

Explanation of Oil Reports...
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gasoline_di...eport_expl.html

Where to Get Free Sample Kits
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

Might I suggest making it a sticky? I'll add mine, but a 3 week delay at the body shop has delayed when I'll be doing it. It'll be a Motorcraft 5w-20.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

Boy, that 5w-30 don't look so hot compared to the 20 weights. I think there is something to be said for 20 weights at startup.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

Great job crossbow.
I'll vote for a sticky on this one too. Then others can add their UOA's to the list.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

One thing to note about these UOA's...

Driver habit and environment will have a HUGE effect on the wear numbers.

My 0w-20 was mostly highway driving, with some short stints, and about 3 autocrosses.

G-cubed on the other hand is doing almost all stop and go driving.

The interesting numbers are the upcoming UOA's, both from g-cubed and myself. Will be interesting to see "how much" they go down.

Or how much mine goes up from 35+ autox runs in late summer/fall.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

i got a question...i do a lot of stop and go driving and its getting pretty dam cold here in vegas...any suggestions on what type of oil i should use? i just recently purchased 5w-30 synthemtic blend made from castrol is that ok? please give me sum suggestions thanks guyz
 

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got a question- i do a lot of stop and go driving and the weather is getting pretty dam cold what type of oil should i be using? i just recently bought some 5w-30 synthetic blend made by castrol is that good to use in my driving habit and condition? thanks you for helping,.....
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

Should be ok...however if you look at all the links I gave you at the top of this thread...you'll note that so far the only 30wt oil has "WORSE" engine wear numbers then the 20 wt's, or the 0w-20 mobil1 supersyn. Then of course this could be due entirely to driving habits.

Your car calls for 5w-20, not 5w-30. If you do use the 5w-30 semi-syn (semi-syn is 10% synthetic and 90% dino), please do a UOA at your next oil change to add to the list.
 

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Replying to Topic 'Mazda6 UOA's'

Great idea, Greg. I noticed mine also made the list ;)

We need more people with the MZR 2.3 to do UOAs!

My next one will be interesting as well, I think - a few autoXes, overall mixed driving (city/highway as well as peaceful/aggressive) and capped off with almost 4 weeks being parked in the cold (unless I park it in a heated garage - still trying to shenangle that!). Of course, it'll be Mobil 1 0W20 again! Hopefully, by then (2 months from now, perhaps) there will be other nicer aftermarket oil filters available for the 6i too.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

I also vote for a sticky, some of us are freaks enough to actually do these UOA's and for anyone still wondering what oil works best, it is good knowledge to have
 

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I can understand that a 0w-20 full syn would be better than a 5w-30 conventional oil or blend, but if we compare 0w-20 to 0w-30 full syn would'nt the 30 wt provide better protection? If anything it would'nt hurt. The 0 w part is for start up and the 30 if for operating temps right? When I used to autocross I used 20w-50 conventional. All the track BMWs at the shop where I worked got 20w-50 Red Line syn. I am using 0w-30 Mobil 1 full syn in the 6s. Autocross cars are under much higher stress and run at much higher rpms than street cars and need a higher viscosity oil. Thats just what I have always heard and done.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

Slush,

Higher weight doesn't necessarily mean better protection.

Usually the heavier weight oils come from cruder stock. (Aka the oil isn't very high quality). The 20 wt's HAVE to come from a very high quality stock to meet Ford's spec.

The most interesting point someone had on bobistheoilguy.com, is the heavier oil's usually shear down to 20wt's anyway...the difference is the 20wt's maintain their weight consistently.

The argument for 20wt's now seems to do with engine tolerances and clearances.

What once worked fine for a old muscle car V8 is too thick for today's engines.

Some of the clearances in a modern engine get down to the micron's in size...the thicker the oil, the less chance it'll be able to lubricate those areas.

The 20 wt's on the other hand, fit right in with little problem.

So far I've done a UOA with autox runs, and it turned out better then the 30wt without autox runs.

I've got a sample right now of 0w-20 with over 35+ autox runs on it, which will definitely answer if the oil is protecting above and beyond. If this sample comes back fine, I see no reason to use any heavier oil then 0w-20 in this engine.
 

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I'm using Castrol Syntec 0w30 (German PAO version), and I'll be doing an UOA on it in about a month, so maybe we'll see if thicker is better. My gut says so, but all the UOA I've seen on the 20 wt oils do look very impressive. I think that Crossbow and I have similar mileage on our cars, with the primary difference being the oils we used.

I don't totally agree with the statement that heavier oils come from lesser base stocks, particularly when we are primarily talking about full synthetic oils. This is partially true for dino 20 wt. oils, as they will inheretly have less film strength, so to meet the protection requirements set by Ford, Honda and other mfg. that spec 20 wts. most oil manufactures have formulated their 20 wts. with better base stocks. Most often this has come with the addition of some Group III pseudo-synthetics. Ever notice that most 20 wt. cost more than the 5w30, 10w30 and the like in the same line? That's because the base oils blend is better. This allows the 20 wts to give a similar amount of protection even though they don't have the same film strength. I don't think that there is any difference is the quality of the base stocks when we are comparing one true synthetic to another (Mobil 1 vs. German Castrol, vs. Amsoil etc...) At that point, if 20 wts give better wear numbers it will be because our engines are truely set up to run that light of an oil.

BTW, Mobil 1 0w30 has been proven to be a turd on Bobistheoilguy.com. Amazingly enough there seem to be signifigant differences in formulation between the different weights of M1. Most there have agreed that the 0w30 is probably the worst of the bunch, so in this case, I'd think you'd do better to run the 0w20 if you want to stick with M1.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

I'll get one of these done too. I switched to the mobil1 and new motorcraft filter after 1000 miles. I'll probably change the oil again at 4000, then probably start going every 4000 inbetween changes. I just remember getting the original green dyed oil on my hands and it feeling somewhat gritty, probably machining dust from breaking in.

I have not auto-x or anything like that, just 2 trips to NJ and back where the V6 is constantly working for 60+270 miles(~5 hours) for the trip to and 270+60 miles return. I make one stop before I get on I-80. The rest of the miles are just driving around town, stop and go to work, occasionally WOTing for one reason or another(FUN!). I want to see what wear and tear my driving habits have on the engine.
 

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Reading Topic: Mazda6 UOA's

i just ordered my test kit. i wish i still had some oil from my first change so i could see. the differnce. I am now running mobil 1 0-20w syn in my 6i. i do mostly city driving except for that long trip to So Cal for the meet. i just changed my oil about 600mi ago so it will be a while til i use the kit but will post it when i get the results back.
 
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