[dcoulombe]

My winter wheels were sold by the dealer and seems to be made by DTD.

I think it's those wheels : https://www.quattrotires.com/wheel/dtd-jante-hu...88i-x44755

My tires are Toyo Observe G3-ICE 225/55R17. And I've got matching TPMS in there.

By the way, my tires are not studded, but that's an option.

I'm happy with this setup.


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[Mz6GreyGhost]

My winter setup:

17"x7.5" MSW Type 86 Gunmetal wheels
225/55-17 97H Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 tires

To be totally honest, the Blizzaks are great in the snow/sleet/slush, but like most other winter tires, they're not the best on dry pavement, nor very quiet.

I got them because they were included with the wheels, but when I replace them, I'll probably go with the Michelin X-Ice Xi3. I had the Michelins on my last set of winter wheels/tires (for my '10 6). The snow traction IMO is just as good, but they feel more stable, secure, and fun-to-drive when the weather is dry, and aren't as loud either.

Edit: You will need TPMS sensors, but I've gone for years without them and I've had no problems with either the car or the wheels/tires. The light on the dash will be on, but I hardly noticed it after a while, and it had no adverse effect on the handling or other electronics. I check my tire pressure once per week religiously anyway, so I saved a few $$$ not getting the sensors...

 

[Byakuya]

^^^ Pretty sweet looking too!

If he's on 225/55 then yeah, 255/50 will be just as good for you to stay on OEM.

I'll admit that the Blizzaks I run are pretty loud too, but I love their quality and have got a LOT of use out of them. I can't get myself to pay the extra ~$30 per tire to get Michelin.

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

I really think you guys are going very wide... what with, as much as, 255 section width.

I think you would want to maintain the same overall tire height; 205's or 215's, for me, would be the most I would go.

Narrow winter tires are said to be the best. Of course dry-road performance, not as much. And you do have to look at load rating, too. Too much of a reduction versus your OEM all season tires.... may be problematic.

Life is a bunch of compromises, I guess.

 

[Mz6GreyGhost]

I really think you guys are going very wide... what with, as much as, 255 section width.

I think you would want to maintain the same overall tire height; 205's or 215's, for me, would be the most I would go.

225/55 is the OEM size for the 17" tires, so I don't see any issue with that.

205/60 or 215/60 is also a good alternative size, since they both stay within the 2% tolerance for wheel diameter and circumference.

255/50 could work also (since it's also less than 2%), but IMO I'd go a narrower treadwidth with a taller sidewall, for a better ride and traction on snowy roads.

 

[mach1219]

Didnt read this entire thread, so this may have been mentioned already...mazda more reliable , boxer engine is prone to head gasket failures, and FWD is typically good enough for most people in snowy climates. If you must have awd, skip the AWD and get a 4wd with part time transfer case. Less maintenence and headaches

Subaru also had a huge recall due to weak valve springs, requiring half retarded dealer mechanics to tear the entire engine down and put it back together, often with less than desirable results

 

[Cdn17Sport6MT]

The Subaru boxster engine is burried in the engine compartment, no doubt between the frame rails. Access struck me, last time I looked in one, as poor.

The Subaru AWD system is reputedly one of the best out there. I agree, though, that part time 4wd is the simplest there is, and if it were not a Subaru, I would totally agree. I just don't think Subie's system has been problematic.

Not sure AWD or 4WD is really necessary or that much better. Tires are the key. FWD cars are typically very good in the snow.

CVT transmissions... don't like 'em. Mazda has thoroughly conventional 6 speed auto, if you do not opt for the 6MT in the Sport.

Subies sound gravelly, generally, because they tend to NOT have equal length exhaust headers. Me, I don't care for that sound. Some like it.

The Mazda is stellar for underhood access. If that intake manifold ever has to come off - NP.

Subie's with direct injection have a bit of a rep. for requiring walnut shell blasts at interval. When you consider how hard it is to get the manifolds off.. well, not fun in my estimation. Mazda's have zero rep for requiring intake valve decarbonning...

Before I bought my Mazda6 Sport, I looked at Subaru, decided I liked Mazda's simplicity more, along with a whole host of other attributes.

 

[Motorsnwheels]

My winter wheels were sold by the dealer and seems to be made by DTD.

I think it's those wheels : https://www.quattrotires.com/wheel/dtd-jante-hu...88i-x44755

My tires are Toyo Observe G3-ICE 225/55R17. And I've got matching TPMS in there.

By the way, my tires are not studded, but that's an option.

I'm happy with this setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. So how does the TPMS work for programming when you swap wheels? Do you have to program it when you swap wheels? So in spring reprogram TPMS on "summer tires" and in the winter reprogram TPMS on "winter tires"? Thanks for the help

 

[Motorsnwheels]

This group has been great, thank you so much. Another downside I just found on the Subaru's was the 2020 Legacy will be standard with auto start stop. I hate that more than just about anything on a car. The support you guys have shown and the help you have provided has been tremendous. I think I will wait about a month but so far its looking like 2019 Mazda6 Signature, Soul Red, Parchment interior and then finding a winter tire/wheel setup. As I mentioned before I always loved the Mazda6 since 2014 and I didn't choose it over my Legacy in '16 so I think I should go for it this time. Also my first car was a 2002 Mazda Millenia. What a great car that was, no major issues until 144k miles when I lost the timing belt pulley, but can't blame Mazda, that was 44k miles past their recommendation and it had a non interference motor so I didn't wreck anything. Just replaced the pulleys, belts and other things while it was torn apart and it was running great again. Looking forward to joining the Mazda family again in the near future and am happy to be a part of this forum.

 

[dcoulombe]

Thank you. So how does the TPMS work for programming when you swap wheels? Do you have to program it when you swap wheels? So in spring reprogram TPMS on "summer tires" and in the winter reprogram TPMS on "winter tires"? Thanks for the help

Super simple. From the manual : https://www.mazdausa.com/static/manuals/2018/mazda6/contents/05120202.html

When changing tires yourself

If you or someone else changes tires, you or someone else can also undertake the steps for the TPMS to complete the ID signal code registration.

After tires have been changed, switch the ignition ON, then back to ACC or OFF.

Wait for about 15 minutes.

After about 15 minutes, drive the vehicle at a speed of at least 25 km/h (16 mph) for 10 minutes and the tire pressure sensor ID signal code will be registered automatically.

I would not run my winter setup without TPMS. That's a personal preference. In the last 7 years, I had at least 3 or 4 punctures plus 2 valve stem failure due to corrosion (on the winter tires). Each time, the TPMS light went on. To me, that's peace of mind. But I understand that people survived without TPMS for many years...

 

[Mz6GreyGhost]

I would not run my winter setup without TPMS. That's a personal preference. In the last 7 years, I had at least 3 or 4 punctures plus 2 valve stem failure due to corrosion (on the winter tires). Each time, the TPMS light went on. To me, that's peace of mind. But I understand that people survived without TPMS for many years...

It's worked out for me...

But then again, TPMS has saved my ass a few times when I did get a slow leak or punctures, but since they're on my OEM wheels (and the fact I usually get tire issues from construction sites that I'm inspecting during the summer months)...

I may bite the bullet and get them installed on my MSWs when I get new winter tires, just for peace of mind. But since the MSWs were used on an older-model 3rd-gen before I bought them, they didn't have/need the sensors.

 

[mach1219]

Lol...i was just going to suggest you don't bother with TPMS in your winter wheels. Piece of mind? When the crap doesnt work and your light is on all the time, and you get robbed by a tire store to replace it or repair it, or charged extra for new seals whenever you get new tire...no thanks. Throw a tire gauge in your glove box and check pressure once a month.

 

[tickerguy]

Lol...i was just going to suggest you don't bother with TPMS in your winter wheels. Piece of mind? When the crap doesnt work and your light is on all the time, and you get robbed by a tire store to replace it or repair it, or charged extra for new seals whenever you get new tire...no thanks. Throw a tire gauge in your glove box and check pressure once a month.

The real value of TPMS isn't the regular, slow leakdown that you get with any tire.

It's from a picked-up nail or screw, especially on a long trip. So far on my "6" it's caught two of those, both of which were manageable with air-ups on a regular basis until I could get home where it's much more convenient to have the tire repaired. In both cases the TPMS system detected the puncture when it was not in any way visible by "walk around" inspection in terms of inflation loss. Once you get to *that* point with radials the odds are high there has been significant internal heat damage to the tire, especially if you're driving at highway speeds, and you turn a $10 tire repair into a new tire -- which, if you have "road hazard" isn't the end of the world until it happens when you have a decent amount of wear on the tires at that point; the road hazard coverage doesn't cover the other tire on the same axle that you really need to replace at the same time.

Might I have caught both before there was heat-related damage or an outright failure without TPMS? Maybe. I have in the past before TPMS was a "thing" but I do see the value in this sort of circumstance, particularly since it's worked "as designed" twice for me thus far in owning the car (~175,000 miles.)

 

[mach1219]

I never had problems detecting a tire with low pressure and adding air or swapping on the spare before damage occurred. I've been driving for 35 years. If you struggle with this, by all means pay extra for TPMS. If you dont, you might want to leave it off.

 

[Gamtu]

I just got a 2019 Mazda 6 Signature. I have no regrets. I live in Florida so snow isn’t an issue but I’m from New England.

AWD is a tempting feature but honestly it wouldn’t have made me choose the Subaru over the Mazda 6 even when thinking about the worst snow conditions driving I’ve had to do.

The Mazda 6 is a better looking car inside and especially outside than the Subaru.

When it comes to the engine being more expensive or difficult to repair. I think now all new car engines are difficult to repair. Gone are the days when a mechanically inclined person can do most of their own engine work without specialized tools and a little more technical knowledge. This wouldn’t stop me from getting the Mazda 6.

The engine in my car runs glassy smooth. When at 500 RPM it’s super quiet and almost feels like the car has been turned off.

I recently had a friend in the car who has a newer BMW roadster. He spontaneously remarked. “This car feels like it’s fun to drive. I can tell.” I said it “it is.”