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All right, this is my first attempt at a walk - thru, so bear with me. I did miss some photo opportunities during the project, especially during the step underneath the dashboard. However, the Mazda instructions are very complete and I wll do my best to explain the steps.

I bought the kit from Trussville Mazda. The order was placed last Sunday night, and the kit arrived at my apartment on Wednesday. Here's a shot of the main pieces of the kit:



Of course, being OEM parts, the quality of the kit is fantastic. New turn signal stalk, included H1 bulbs, and a heavy-duty wiring harness.

1. Remove the 3 screws from the bottom of the steering column. Squeeze the two plastic halves of the steering column cover and it will pop apart. Unscrew the 2 screws that hold in the turn signal stalk, and unplug the Molex connector that holds it in place, and replace the stalk with the new one. Pop the two halves of the column cover back together, and replace the 3 screws. Very simple step here:




The next 2 steps are the hardest part of the whole install and also the part that I did not photograph, because it was already hard enough working underneath the dash without trying to hold a camera. Here's a description:

2. Remove the driver's side sill plate and fuse box cover. Locate the white 24 pin instrument panel harness directly above the fuses and disconnect the harness. Remove the terminal lock (black plastic latch assembly) from the white harness.

3. When looking directly at the white harness, the bottom rightmost wire is yellow and green. This wire needs to be removed from the Molex connector and moved up one spot in the connector. This was the part that I found to be the most difficult. The instructions give no method as to how to remove this wire. I imagine there is some sort of tool, but I do not have this tool so I had to improvise. I ended up improvising for about 2 hrs, including frustration breaks, trying to remove that damn wire. I finally was able to remove it by inserting a very small hex key into the back of the connector, just above the wire and it popped out. The instructions call for a "terminal removal tool, but I have no clue what that is and neither did any of the auto parts stores I called. The wire is held in place by a tiny spring-like metal piece attached to the wire. It was one of those things that just when I thought I was gonna go nuts, it came out. Reinsert the wire into the Molex connector 1 spot above where it was before.

4. The next step requires the use of a small green wire included in the kit. The wire has a plastic wiretap on each end of the 4" long wire. Take this little wiretap deal and locate the light green wire on the black 42 pin connector just above the white connector that you were just fighting with on the previous step. Tap one end of the included wiretapping wire to the light green wire going into the black connector, and tap the other end to the same color wire going into the white connector from the previous step. The colors are exactly the same in both connectors. Basically this step connects the light green wire from one connector to the other. Why? I have no idea, but it works :p

5. Remove bumper. I was concerned about this part, but it was incredibly easy. I won't describe it cuz it's been done before.

6. This is where the supplement to the instructions come in. I forgot to photograph this part too, but it's real easy. In order to have enough clearance between the driver's side light and the horns, the horns must be removed and the bracket must be replaced with a more compact bracket included in the kit. Simply unplug the horns, remove one bolt from the windshield washer fluid bottle, remove the horns and bracket, swap the horns onto the new bracket in the same fashion, and reinstall.

7. Time to install the underhood harness. First locate the positive end, the end with the fuse holder. Remove the positive wire running into the fusebox, and add the harness wire to the bolt, and reinstall everything. The bolt is circled:


Next, remove the ground wire off the battery from underneath the battery bracket and add the ground wire from the harness (the end without the fuse holder) and reinstall just like the previous step. The bolt is circled:


Run the remaining wires next to the airbox and down below the headlight and ziptie the fuseholder to the factory wire harness running just in front of the fusebox.


8. Now that the harness is connected to the battery, you must connect the grey plug on the harness to the factory harness hanging behind the air intake box. With the bumper off, it is easily located between the fusebox and airbox. Look for it from underneath, near the tire (once again I forgot to photograph, the wire struggling had me real frazzled. It's the only one you'll se tho. Next, remove the bolt just below the driver's side headlight and put the grey relay from the fog harness on the bolt and reinstall:


9. Now run the loop-wrapped wires that connect to the lights (black plugs) down to their respective locations. The short wire will just hang straight down from the relay, while the long one will run along the bottom of the radiator and need to be ziptied to the tubular steel support:

 

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10. With all the wiring now in place, remove the plastic inserts from the bumper. Be careful as I gashed my finger trying to pop these inserts out. Plus, the tabs that remain on the bumper will hold the new foglights, so the tabs need to not be bent.


11. Next, you'll see a small X imprinted in the bumper right below the hole made by removing the inserts. Drill a 6mm hole in the middle of the X in the bumper on both sides. I tried to photo this X, but it didn't really come out. You can't miss it tho, it's right below the opening in the bottom part of the bumper. This picture shows the X area, but I can't make out the exact location:


12. Pop the new lights into the openings by inserting the bumper's tabs into the lights' openings and make sure they're snapped in all the way. Then screw in the provided screws through the hole you drilled in the bumper into the hole in the bottom of the light assembly to hold it in tightly:



13. Plug the lights into the wiring harness you ran along the bottom of the car, reinstall the bumper, hook up the battery and presto! You're done! Grab a beer and enjoy the view:



As far as the quality of this kit, of course it's fantastic. The fitment is great and they are very bright. Ease of install? If it weren't for that one wire in the molex connector, it would've been very easy. I'm sure there's some easy way to remove a wire like this, but I coudn't figure it out. Other than that, it was straightforward. The lights themselves do indeed help out visibility quite a bit, especially to the sides of the car. I use them all the time now. I do kinda wish I could turn them on with the parking lights but it's not a big deal, and I'm not messing with any more wiring for quite a while.

I highly reccomend this kit and Trussville Mazda. LONG LIVE NON-SPORT!!!
Any feedback, questions or comments are welcome. Enjoy!

Edit: After all the work on this writeup, I can't see my own pics!! Can you guys see 'em? What's going on here?
 

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Good work MZBuckeye,

Couple of questions:

The new switch has 2 fog lights position, 1 for intergrated fog lights only and the second for both fog lights (integrated and bottom). Correct ?

Also, can you give me the part number of the kit, it's not available in Canada and I will have to order it in the US.

Thanks for your help.

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They weren't showing up for me last night, but now I see them fine. I don't know, I've been having that problem lately. Any idea mods? Any chance of pinning this?

Ianb, my 6 has no integrated fog lights, so the switch just has one position, fog on or off. Probably the same as the switch for integrated fogs, but instead it controls the lowers. The part number is 0000-8Z-H25A, available only for non-sport.
 

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EXCELLENT WRITE-UP, MZBuckeye! It's funny how no one really did a write-up on the OEM fog installation (or any other kind, 'cept for ZSilver6's post), and now both you and I contributed to this board with our pics and instructions. :) Do the fogs match your Silverstars in person? I gave up on the Silver Stars when one blew just months after I got them, and I didn't want to get the OEM because I was afraid they would be too "dull" underneath my HIDs. If they had OEM yellows, I'd SOOO get them, although I'd still want to be able to turn the fogs on without turning parking lights/headlights on.

Why was the install so difficult? The most difficult part about my install was getting the wires thru the firewall (when, really, it's actually not THAT bad--I just struggled a bit). Then, everything connects to the battery, and I was done.

(For those of you who want to check out an aftermarket OEM-like fog install, click here.)

PROPS TO MZBuckeye! Even after this long, the non-sport is still popular, and we're still the only ones with OEM LOWER fogs from Mazda! :nana:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I swear, I thought that moving that one wire over one spot in that Molex connector under the dash was gonna be the death of me. It was held in there so tightly and the workspace was so cramped that I didn't think I was ever gonna get it. Soooooo frustrating. Just when I was at wit's end I got it to pop out. Other than that, it was smooth sailing, but that step was a real killer. I'd love to know how others have been able to move that wire.

Oh, and the fogs do not really match the Silverstars, but I have the Osrams rather than the Sylvania's so they're close. But up against the garage wall the fogs looked awfully yellow. I'll be getting another pair in the near future.
 

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Pics aren't working for me, but I'm interested.

A couple of questions, if I may:

1) Where do I get the kit?
2) What's the estimated price?

John
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I don't understand. I just clicked on this thread and the images were red x's, now I left and came back, and they're fine! What the heck? Can anyone see the pictures?

Any chance of pinning this for me? I worked really hard! :p

BTW, I bought this kit from Trussville Mazda (www.trussvillemazda.com) for $180, free shipping until X-mas. Trussville's shipping is insanely fast, I highly recommend them.
 

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Originally posted by MZBuckeye@Dec 17 2004, 05:35 PM
I don't understand.  I just clicked on this thread and the images were red x's, now I left and came back, and they're fine!  What the heck?  Can anyone see the pictures? 

Any chance of pinning this for me?  I worked really hard!  :p

BTW, I bought this kit from Trussville Mazda (www.trussvillemazda.com) for $180, free shipping until X-mas.  Trussville's shipping is insanely fast, I highly recommend them.
[snapback]336994[/snapback]​
Is there a bandwidth limit on the cardomain site? Perhaps too many people downloaded your images, and they won't be available for a little while. You can try uploading your pictures to this site, instead.

Drew
 

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Sorry, I'm a dumbass when it comes to this. I thought the only way to post pictures was to link to another hosting website. Can you tell me how to upload 'em straight to here?
 

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Originally posted by MZBuckeye@Dec 18 2004, 12:06 PM
Sorry, I'm a dumbass when it comes to this.  I thought the only way to post pictures was to link to another hosting website.  Can you tell me how to upload 'em straight to here?
[snapback]337283[/snapback]​
That's one way to do it, but some sites don't allow external links. It looks like CarDomain allows them *sometimes*, because I can see them now.

Anyway, just below the post editing window, youll see a section for file attachments. Mazda6Club doesn't limit the size or number of attachments, so you can upload. Once you start uploading files, you'll begin to see a list of the files that have been uploaded, with links that insert the script that will show the picture in the post. Just link these in the appropriate places in your post and your set.

Perhaps it was just a temporary glitch at CarDomain, though, because it seems to be ok, now. Last night when I was looking at it, I was able to see those pictures by going directly to your CarDomain page, so I don't think it's a bandwidth limit.

Drew
 

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This is nuts, now I can't see them. I'm gonna change 'em over to attachments here in a second. Stupid cardomain, who knows what the problem is.
 

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I couldnt see them before but I see them now...

Looks nice. Let us know how they work in real fog... BTW how much did they charge for the kit?
 

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Kit was $180 from Trussville with free shipping until X-mas. I'm looking forward to some real fog, but right now all we have is a ton of real snow!
 

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MZBuckeye!! I completly f'ed that pin last night and I'm now looking for a replacement. I couldn't get it out after nearly 3 hours of trying. Had he stalk insalled in about 10 min, but that one pin would not come out. I finally just cut the wire and drilled out the connector pin. Now I need a replacement connector pin to make my fogs work. Dealership was no help and radio shack only has round molex connectors. Not looking good....
Here's what I posted on the mainboard trying to get help and some tools form snap-on that might make this easier for others....
After going down to my dealership to find a replacement connector pin I still don't have a replacement. They don't do the fog light installs, a guy from snap-on tools comes in to install their dealer items.

That has led me to find these tools from snap-on that may help others remove the fog light pin more easily.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?se...-store&tool=all
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?se...-store&tool=all
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?se...-store&tool=all

If I find out a connector replacement part I will post it here or in the foglight install thread. I hope someone knows this part!!

Cheers,
 

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Paid for the mazdatechinfo.com 24hr subscription today. All to find parts to fix my damage. However, I'll probally just hardwire the Yellow-Green wire to it's matching wire in the back of the connector instead of using the terminal.
BUT, I did find a section telling how to properally remove the terminal... Here you go:

Terminals
Inspection

* Pull lightly on individual wires to verify that they are secured in the terminal

Replacement

* Use the appropriate tools to remove a terminal as shown. When installing a terminal, be sure to insert it until it locks securely.
* Insert a thin piece of metal from the terminal side of the connector and with the terminal locking tab pressed down, pull the terminal out from the connector.


Cheers,
 

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That page makes it look real easy, but damn, when you're underneath the dashboard it makes it virutally impossible to do such a thing. I honestly almost cut it like you did. I don't even know how I ended up getting it, it was a complete stroke of luck. Everything else was so damn easy too...
 

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I've had not luck finding a connector. I'm hoping the snap-on guy that does the installs at my dealer is in tomorrow. I take the 6 in for it's first oil change.

Here's what I've done and my fogs still aren't working. I've hardwired the yellow/green that was supposed to be moved up one slot to the yellow/green that connects to the back of the connector. That's not working though, my guess is when the y/g wire is moved up a spot in the connector it is now hitting another wire not the matching y/g. What that wire is I don't know and I've even paid the $20 esi.mazdausa.com 24 subscription and I can't find a diagram of that X-05 connector. DAMN!! Here's what I've measured:
Lights On / Fogs Off
Light Green Wire - Always 12v
Y/G - 12v

Lights On / Fogs On
Light Green - 12v
Y/G - 0v - It goes off when the fog light switch is on. Isn't this the wire that's supposed to go to the fog relay?? I guess by not moving it up a pin it's not connected to a different wire like it should be. ??

Lights Off - Fogs Off
LIght Greeen - 0v
y/g - 0v

Otherwise the install was cake. :tear: Cheers,
 
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