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UPDATE: I may have fixed the clock.

On a whim I decided to pull the negative terminal on the battery and let it sit overnight. Reconnected this morning, and so far today with several startups/drives the clock is holding the correct time.

Note: I had previously reset to Factory Defaults several times (through the Settings menu). Toggled GPS Sync. Manually set the clock. Nothing else worked.

Perhaps disconnecting the battery cleared some clock memory, or forced the time to be resynced -- who knows. But so far today it's working. And yes I still have GPS nav working fine as well. Hopefully this helps someone else.
this is interesting, hopefully this fixes it. let us know if it works for longer. I had it working for a few days after reset and then it started acting out again, so hopefully this will turn out to be a longer fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #242 · (Edited)
Try the Disconnect NEGATIVE Battery lead overnight (hours) as the guy above did and worked for him...

I have to assume all do the FIRMWARE Installs 100% correct that includes delete DTC's on the Test Screen.

A car door lock and walkaway for over 15 mins with key fob well away from car over 10 metres puts CMU to sleep.

A Battery disconnect overnight will reset EVERYTHING and removes DTC's (which is a good idea IMO anyway every 2 years or so), as it will also reset your ECU Fuel Maps ( any DTCs) until it Fuel Map recalibrates after a few drive cycles ( driving, engine on and off), you 'may' see a slightly different feel to car performance and or engine idling...will not hurt anything.

A DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) will reappear or set again IF any electrically monitored device has a fault or is defective or not properly connected or corrupt code where applicable or a related secondary device or devices is defective, a Battery terminal removal for a few hours will CLEAR any DTC's that may have been SET weeks or months ago for whatever reasons but will not repair a faulty device and may set same DTC immediately when car is re-started or over a set period of drive cycles it may return.
 

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Detecting zero sats sounds to me like the GPS antenna got physically disconnected during AA/CP installation.
Perhaps, I disconnected and reconnected the cables at the back of the CMU, disconnected/reconnected the negative battery terminal and everything seems to be working now.
 

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Great forum and many thanks for all of the helpful contributions!

I have version 74.00.230 NAN that was preinstalled when I bought my 2018. I live in North America. The car does not have the new usb unit in it.
I ordered the new usb unit and cables to put in myself. I once installed car radios, so I don't think this part of it will be an issue.
A few things concern me.
- The OS is missing the "A" designation. It seems the most recent North American version is 74.00.230A
My version is missing the "A". Is this significant?
-From what I can understand so far the hardware should be compatible IF the OS above is ok. What I am unsure of is will I be required to enter a few codes in the engineering menu for my system to "see" the new hardware or is this automatic plug and play with this version OS? I'm kinda thinking I need to program it to see the new hardware but really I don't know???

Thanks for any suggestions here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #245 ·
74.00.230A or 74.00.230 in this instance is the SAME Firmware.

You wont see the CP/AA ui UNTIL you install the NEW Hardware and turn car on and HARDWIRE Connect PHONE to correct USB Hub Port.
 

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ASH8 Gotcha. Many thanks for your help. I'll report back how it all went.
I'm strictly an Android Google guy, so I won't be testing ACP.
Since this car already has nav, not sure how much I'll actually use it. I like the Google voice commands.Wayz is sometimes more helpful.
 

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Hi ,So great post huge thanks to all you who posted info on here .
So.....here is my question .I have a 2018 Mazda Atenza (JDM) and the software was changed to 70.****4A N . This was done through a Mazda dealer .
All the language is now in English ,no Navi via SD card ..I'm not fussed about that.
But the radio tuner now shows the correct FM bandwidth of 88-108Mhz now ,but will only still receive 76-90MHZ .
So a band expanded is still required .I spoke to the local Mazda dealer who sub contracted the job out and said
"basically ..that's just the way it is ,you will have to buy the NZ radio tuner for $900 to correct this" . After they said the unit
will up to NZ spec .
Is there any other software that will correct this tuner problem I have ?
Love the car ,but very annoyed at the lack of backup ..after I paid to have a job done .
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Lack of back up??, what do you expect JDM made cars are for Japan Domestic Market only, you chose to buy or import the car to NZ, not a Mazda NZ or a Mazda problem.

And yes, you will have to find a AU/NZ TAU (Tuner Audio Module and remove Japan TAU and install in your car), should work then (you might have to reinstall Firmware again or do a Factory Reset).

Just incase you ask, you will never get Navigation to work as you need a new (AU/NZ) CMU with correct GPS Antenna and new virgin SD Card with NNG Maps as again Japan use a totally different company for Navigation.
 

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Hi ,So great post huge thanks to all you who posted info on here .
So.....here is my question .I have a 2018 Mazda Atenza (JDM) and the software was changed to 70.****4A N . This was done through a Mazda dealer .
All the language is now in English ,no Navi via SD card ..I'm not fussed about that.
But the radio tuner now shows the correct FM bandwidth of 88-108Mhz now ,but will only still receive 76-90MHZ .
So a band expanded is still required .I spoke to the local Mazda dealer who sub contracted the job out and said
"basically ..that's just the way it is ,you will have to buy the NZ radio tuner for $900 to correct this" . After they said the unit
will up to NZ spec .
Is there any other software that will correct this tuner problem I have ?
Love the car ,but very annoyed at the lack of backup ..after I paid to have a job done .
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
So, you forced a square peg into a round hole and arent happy with the results? Shocking.
 

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Reporting back on the outcome of my installation of android auto. I hesitate to admit this, but I have a 2018 Mazda RX 5 and not a Mazda 6. I guess the basic systems are mostly the same. The kit I used came from China, but was labeled as "parts for Mazda" with official looking stickers. Even after watching several videos on the install the RX 5s in the examples were slightly different than my car. For one thing the CMU had two 10mm bolts holing it in and the example car only had one deep in the center, so they must have changed that later. My interior is leather and that added a few more fancy strips to take off.

In the end it went ok. I initially forgot to plug the electric parking brake wire back in. Wasn't difficult to pop a few panels off and attach it. It was about 115 F with no moving air inside my car when I installed it. I was concerned I might ruin my interior with sweat!

Thankfully I had the right OS already in the CMU. While I really like using Wayz and Google maps I also like the fact that I don't use phone data with the built in nav. It's a tough call there because Wayz probably has a better system for alerts to traffic accidents. Where Google really shines for me is podcasts I follow, news and phone control. While I can record voice commands to dial numbers with the prior setup it is so much easier using Google voice. Alexa is my main smart home controller. Google does some things much better. I wish there was a way to merge them with the car and home control.

I'll probably be mainly on android auto unless I'm mapping and want to save data.
I haven't found a way yet to display an actual aerial view of my location in Google maps. Some cars have that capability. Maybe it's there and I haven't yet figured out how to access it.
 

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Sorry if this was stated somewhere already but I wasn't able to find if there is a compelling reason to upgrade to the 74 firmware over the latest 70 series. We have a 2017 CX-9, I've purchased the cables and hub and was re-reading the great instructions here before getting started. Last month we had the car at the Mazda dealer and they upgraded the firmware to 70.00.367 (NA N). Is it worth the trouble for me upgrading to the 74 series or my understanding is this version of 70.00.367 is good enough for me to proceed with the hardware install?

Thanks!
 

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Hi ,sorry you miss read my post "lack of back up" being I purchased this car through a Mazda dealer and paid to have converted by the dealer to complete NZ spec as per their advice .
Then finding the radio tuner is not to NZ spec and was better off being left to receive 76-90MHZ with a band expander .
Too be told after they collected money .."tough titties" this is the way it is !!! if you want it right spend another $900 for the correct tuner ..
See my frustration !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Sorry if this was stated somewhere already but I wasn't able to find if there is a compelling reason to upgrade to the 74 firmware over the latest 70 series. We have a 2017 CX-9, I've purchased the cables and hub and was re-reading the great instructions here before getting started. Last month we had the car at the Mazda dealer and they upgraded the firmware to 70.00.367 (NA N). Is it worth the trouble for me upgrading to the 74 series or my understanding is this version of 70.00.367 is good enough for me to proceed with the hardware install?

Thanks!
Yes you can just use 70.00.367A, Read FIRMWARE ALERT MUST READ text file

In North America (that includes the USA) 74.00.230A is the ONLY firmware any US and Canada and Mexico Mazda Dealer now use with or without CP/AA or WCP.
Clearly your Mazda Dealer is lazy and or behind the times as 367A has not been available to US Dealers since April this year and maybe has not updated his own USB flash drive?.
70.00.367A no longer exist for Mazda Dealers in US to use.
They only now use 74.00.230A.
Your car is currently running outdated Firmware with 367A for NA N and any bugs it may have and I am not going into detail. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #259 ·
Hi ,sorry you miss read my post "lack of back up" being I purchased this car through a Mazda dealer and paid to have converted by the dealer to complete NZ spec as per their advice .
Then finding the radio tuner is not to NZ spec and was better off being left to receive 76-90MHZ with a band expander .
Too be told after they collected money .."tough titties" this is the way it is !!! if you want it right spend another $900 for the correct tuner ..
See my frustration !!!!
Taking it on face value...

Find it unusual that any new car franchise (Mazda Dealer) would sell a JDM used Import in their used yard and then 'offer and take your money' to 'upgrade' to AU/NZ Spec is highly unusual.
A switched on Mazda Dealer would know that it is a JDM used car import and would not touch it with a barge poll if it was traded in on a brand new Mazda (they would trade wholesale it off and never sell in their own yard), or they are importing and or buying in JDM cars to sell at franchise.
All are against Mazda Dealer Franchise agreement, I would consider discussing this with Mazda NZ if this concerns you.

Old saying Buyer Beware.
 

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A new Server will have most files in next 48 hours..or about.
Hi
@ASH8
First, really thanks for your whole article for upgrading the firmware.
Hi drive is still no work, is there any link we can use to download the 70.00 version firmware?
thanks for your help!!
 
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