Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I am very happy that I found this forum and look for your kind inputs and guidance to take care of my Mazda.
To give you more background I recently bought a Mazda 6 wagon which has 112k miles on it. Its a 3.0 V6 version and black exterior paint.
I am in love with my baby!! It drives very well but I had some niggling issues that I wanted some help on

1) The battery seems to be of an ordinary brand which was put by the previous owner and yesterday when the car was not running and the headlights were switched on, it drained in not more than 5 minutes!! I let the car be for the next 2 hrs and it cranked up again fine. What could be the issue for draining of the battery so fast? Do I need to get a new battery? If yes then what brand would you guys suggest or recommend in the US to get?

2) At low speeds or when starting out when you turn the steering fully towards the right, the left front makes a creaking sound. Also, I get some clicking noise in the steering at low speeds mainly below the speeds of 25 mph. Please let me know what could be the possible cause of this and how do I get it checked/maintained/replace/repaired.

3) I have the check engine light on and I went to the AutoZone to get the diagnostics done and it turns the rear bank catalytic converter is not working properly. Maybe due to carbon built up over the years. The previous owner used to put an additive in the fuel tank to get rid of the light. I did the same but the light is still there. Would you suggest I add a different of additive? or should I get a new catalytic converter?

4) Any suggestions on a trusted Mazda6 mechanic or shop in the Dallas-Fortworth area of Texas, USA?

Please let me know your thoughts. It will help me a lot.

Awaiting Your responses eagerly.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
16,774 Posts
Welcome to the forum!

Sorry, this thread was randomly put as "Unapproved" and I only just noticed it - no one else would've seen it yet. Free bump so everyone can see it on the top.

1) There could be a faulty ground somewhere, or it could be a crappy battery. I never put anything special in my V6 for a battery and it was perfectly happy. Check the voltage on it with and without the car running to make sure 1) the battery is good and holding a charge and/or 2) your alternator is working properly.

2) I am not sure about this one, unfortunately.

3) What code specifically is it? It's possible you need new cats, as the V6 are prone to failing around the 140k mile range, but it could also be something else depending on the code.

4) Sorry, I live nowhere near you :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hey Byakuya,

Thanks a lot for accepting the thread. I shall get the car checked for fuse and other loose connections.

The code that was generated in the AutoZone report were P0431, P1487, P2227, P0431, P0455.

Please let me know if I need to put in more info.

On a different note, the engine coolant seems to be running low what coolant would be good for the Mazda 6 V6 Sportwagon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,151 Posts
P0431 indicates a bad cat. If you're using coolant, you may already have a problem. How's your oil?

Welcome aboard.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
1,863 Posts
Hello,


Some ideas:
1 The battery could be low of electrolyte and/or failing. I have not had luck with more than about 2 years with batteries on the 1st gen v6. Maybe heat is killing them...


2 Squeaking could just be brakes or a backing plate rubbing...? Clicking could be a CV joint. Look under the the front end and see if any of your CV boots are torn.


3. Codes P1487 and P2227 are likely the EGR boost sensor on the firewall (I believe).
https://www.mazda6club.com/#/topics/284361?page=1
It likely need to be replaced.
P0455 is likely the gas cap. Either it is loose or need to replaced. Only use a factory OEM part for this one (<$20)
P0431 is a bummer. I means your manifold/catalytic converter is shot. Something likely killed it and that was probably a mis-fire caused by faulty coil-on-plugs and spark plugs. If one cat went then the others are likely not too far behind. If you are using a lot of oil then some of the catalyst went into the engine and scored the cylinder walls (wort case scenario). If your oil use is normal-ish 0.5-2qts/3000mi you are likely okay with new coils/plugs and manifolds. Many of us have done this repair and the recommended components (by myself and Mazda) are:
Replace coils, spark plugs, all four catalytic converters and all four oxygen sensors.


https://forum.mazda6club.com/3-0l-v6/410065-help-me-save-mozzie-loss-power-3.html#post4823866
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Tons of electric issues can be fixed with a new battery. Check the date on it and don't be surprised if it's somewhere half a decade ago. Any Walmart brand will do, and they come with a warranty.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I have had to replace the battery in my 2007 6 3.0 wagon a couple of times and have been fine with batteries from Autozone. I wonder why the cats have a reputation for failure for the V6. I have all original cats (and the rest of the exhaust system) with over 240k miles on the car. Your clicking could be coming from worn CV joints in one of the drive axles and the creaking could be worn ball joints. Best of luck with the new car!
Jake
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
@DrFeelGood

Thanks a lot for your inputs.

1) I got the battery charge checked and it is showing around 14.2 amps. So the battery seems correct. But the problem is with the alternator. I would have to get it replaced.
2) I can see some grooves being formed on the disc of front brakes due to worn out brake pads. But they do not squeak. But the CV joint could definitely be a problem. Please can you guide me as to where I can get OEM CV joints for both the front tire assembly? Or will the replacement CV joints from duralast available at AutoZone do?
3) I got the catalytic converter issued checked for the codes. It is the rear bank CAT that is gone. I put the cat cleaner fluid but no luck the check engine light is still on. Can this be the reason why the car is struggling to generate power when in lower gears at stoplights?
4) The previous owner got the engine oil replaced a month back but it was from some local garage and I do not think that they used good quality oil. Can i get a new Oil replacement done now? Which brand of 5w-20 Oil shall I get(Mobile1, Castrol, Pennzoil or any other synthetic oil)
5)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
@JJDS6.

The battery is producing good charge although the battery is not from a respected brand. I believe the creaking sound is coming from the CV joints which may have worn over the years. I need to get them replaced. Would please suggest where I get the replacement ones or the OEM ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
If you are reading 14.5 volts at the batter with the engine running, the alternator is working fine. Test the battery voltage with the engine off just after normal running and again after it has been sitting for a couple of hours or over night. If it reads less than 12.5 volts in either situation, you should be looking closer at the battery assuming you have checked to ensure all the connections are clean and properly tightened.


CV joints do not usually squeak when they are failing. The typical failure mode for a CV joint is the boot will tear and allow the grease to escape. This causes the balls in the joint to dry out and the joint will start clicking. If not corrected by repacking the joint with grease and replacing the boot, the clicking will usually worsen and grow deeper in pitch until it sounds almost like a knocking. At that point, the only choice is to replace the entire joint.


I buy a lot of parts from Rock Auto for various cars. It is a good place to get them if you are going to do the work yourself and want good prices. Duralast parts will probably be more expensive than what you can pay at Rock Auto but they should work fine if you decide to go that direction. Get new joints if you can swing it rather than "rebuilt" because you may never know the quality of the rebuild.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
1,863 Posts
1) I got the battery charge checked and it is showing around 14.2 amps. So the battery seems correct. But the problem is with the alternator. I would have to get it replaced.
What @JJDS6 said is accurate. A voltage that high means the alternator is charging. Was the battery load tested? Is the electrolyte fluid at the correct level?

2) I can see some grooves being formed on the disc of front brakes due to worn out brake pads. But they do not squeak. But the CV joint could definitely be a problem. Please can you guide me as to where I can get OEM CV joints for both the front tire assembly? Or will the replacement CV joints from duralast available at AutoZone do?
OEM CV shafts are no longer available as new. Dozens of CV shafts over 3 decades has taught me that OEM is the only real way to go. That means that I have to often go to a salvage yard and find one that has both boots intact which I then rebuild with factory boots. Total cost is about $100 plus the time. The rebuild is easy and only takes about an hour but finding and pulling them can be a real investment. This is why it is best to regularly check for cracking and replace the boot before they tear.
Aftermarket drive shafts are wildly variable. Every one I have had has shaken. Some mildly some violently. Some people don't mind their car shaking and if that is you then more power to you.

3) I got the catalytic converter issued checked for the codes. It is the rear bank CAT that is gone. I put the cat cleaner fluid but no luck the check engine light is still on. Can this be the reason why the car is struggling to generate power when in lower gears at stoplights?
My thoughts on this are either the ignition is still faulty and misfiring or the catalyst material has disintegrated and traveled downstream to plug the second catalyst. (This happened to me. A hill I could do in fifth saw me unable to climb in third)
I had to do this job twice because I cut corners the first time. I recommend replacing all the catalysts plus plugs/coils and upstream O2 sensors.
Here is a link to my adventure:

https://forum.mazda6club.com/members/105825-drfeelgood.html#vmessage9866

4) The previous owner got the engine oil replaced a month back but it was from some local garage and I do not think that they used good quality oil. Can i get a new Oil replacement done now? Which brand of 5w-20 Oil shall I get(Mobile1, Castrol, Pennzoil or any other synthetic oil)
You can get the oil changed at any time. Oil brand is hugely personal and as soon as I make a recommendation, this thread will be taken over by offspring of the oil debate and closed in fairly short order. I would say this. Choose an oil that is fairly common and satisfies the requirements of the vehicle. I use a Valvoline high mileage synthetic mix in 5W-30 with a Mobil 1 filter. It gets changed every 3000 mi, which is every 9 months. I use a Mobil 1 0W-20 full synthetic and Mobil 1 filter for the Odyssey. That gets changed every 5000 mi. I think the most important consideration would be to not change oil brand all the time as different manufacturers use varying detergents. A new "different" detergent may remove deposits that have accumulated as a result of another oil use, and those liberated deposits could clog oil passages and lead to damage. That being said, oil of a different brand is always better than no/low oil, and if you find yourself traveling and out of oil, then fill with what you can.


EDIT:

This may help offset the cost a bit. It just popped up.
2003-05 are all the same. 2006-08 are the same. The two cannot be interchanged.
https://forum.mazda6club.com/newbie-section/440358-brand-new-rear-manifold-05-6s-m-t.html#post5047728
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
@DrFeelGood: I took my car to a nearby garage as I live in an apartment and don't have a garage. We checked the CV joints but they look fine. There is no damage on the rubber boots but the mechanic suggested it could be the strut. I can also the clicking on the brake pedals sometimes.

When we checked underneath the engine there was a monumental oil leak. Could not make from where. So we put in a dye and did the oil change with Mobile1 5w 20. After driving for a week I can see the white color of the die on the hoses surrounding the engine. I am attaching the pictures. Please do let me know your thoughts. Can clogged Cat be responsible for oil leaks or is it a blown head gasket.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi napandya, first and foremost welcome to Mazda6club and owning a 1st generation Mazda 6.

Reading your post, I can immediately answer number two, as I have had to trouble shoot plenty creaking, clicking, and clanking issues with the suspension in the 181,000+ miles that I have had mine.

There are also a ton of threads on here about low speed suspension creaking.

Based on what you’re saying, here’s what I recommend checking; first check the sway bar end links, they give out very easily. Second, check the control arms, especially the front lower control arms. Third, check the rubber bushings on the sway bars. Fourth, as your mechanic said, it may be the struts, and you should probably replace them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I have had to replace the battery in my 2007 6 3.0 wagon a couple of times and have been fine with batteries from Autozone. I wonder why the cats have a reputation for failure for the V6. I have all original cats (and the rest of the exhaust system) with over 240k miles on the car. Your clicking could be coming from worn CV joints in one of the drive axles and the creaking could be worn ball joints. Best of luck with the new car!
Jake
@JJDS6 The 2003-2005 V6 is the one that has the issue with the cats clogging or breaking up and going back into the engine causing engine damage. Fortunately the 2006-2008 V6 has a completely redesigned exhaust system specifically with different/improved cats as well as revised overall header design, so we don’t get that problem. Another difference of the revised header design is that 03-05 cars make slightly more hp but less torque, whereas 06-08 makes slightly less hp but more torque.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top