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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,

After driving my car for more than 3 years, I thought I'd write and share what I hope for to be a reference for the 3rd generation of Mazda 6 solved issues. I hope it's going to be useful for this website's members and general online readers as well. I kindly urge members to contribute to this thread in order to build a very good source of solved issues.

My list is not classified under any particular type and it may fall under any classification (e.g. mechanical, electrical, electronic etc.)

1- Cracking noise around and under the armrest.

Turned out the noise was coming from exhaust hanger rubber which needs greasing or any type of cleaning spray such as W40.

2- Suspension noise

This issue is common, and I managed to solve it by replacing the lower control arms and they don't cost that much. You can try spraying the bushings with with W40, or grease them, if that doesn't solve issue, replacing the LCA is your final call.

3- Continues vibration while driving around 110-130 km.

This was the most annoying issue I faced and it gave me headache to eventually solve it. I tried many ways starting from balancing tyres to replacing wheels and replacing bearings. I ended up replacing the axles and that solved the issue.

4- Changing ATX Fluid

Although Mazda doesn't recommend changing the fluid or operating any interval changes, I'd go with the views that recommend changing the fluid around 100 km. I Changed the fluid at 125 km and I have to say that ATX movements and changes became smoother. Flushing the fluid after 100 km maybe potentially dangerous which I wouldn't recommend.

5- Oil leak from the Oil Control Valve on the top of the engine.

If the Check Engine Light didn't come on, you most probably need to change the seal only, which requires removing the engine's valves cover and I recommend changing the rubber gasket as well.

6- A/C not cold enough.

First you need to start with the basic and cheap things such as the A/C filter. I found out there was a tiny leak coming from the Low Pressure Valve, and I solved it by replacing the core valve which is the same as the core valve for tyres. To do this, you need to refill the Freon.


7- Cracking noise after replacing the brake pads.

This noise usually appears when replacing the pads and not greasing the caliber's slider pins, and in most cases this noise would disappear after driving for few days.


8- Oil Leak from the oil pan drain plug.

The drain plug seems to be designed to be used once, and the ultimate solution to this is by replacing it with Fumoto Drain plugs, or you just replace the washer with a better quality one.

9- Warped Rotors

This can be solved by getting better rotors from either EBC or other fine brands.

10- Leak from the engine's belt tensioner

It's been leaking since the first year of having the car, but finally it decided to declare the termination of bearing the belt's movements, the belt started squeaking and the engine started roaring when first driving in lower gear. Replaced it with engine's belts.




I tried to gather all I remember of issues that I managed to solve, and I hope it's useful.


Thanks.
 

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You should definitely not forget about the warped front brakes. Just put new, nicer pads and rotors, hopefully it helps in the long run.

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I called the dealer to ask about my upcoming 60k mile service and how much it is. Is it true that the skyactiv transmission is a non-serviceable transmission (which makes no sense). So they're basically saying that you can't change or flush the transmission..


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You don't need to replace the oil drain plug. You need to replace the oil drain plug washer. Same as any other car. Just go easy on the torque so you don't round out the allen bolt hole on the plug.
 

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I have none of these issues on my car, as I only have 12,600 miles on it, but I'm confused by a couple of items:

1) you mention changing the ATX fluid at "100km"; I'm assuming you don't mean "100 kilometers", so do you mean "100,000 kilometers" or "100,000 (or 100K) miles"? Since you use "km" to indicate speed elsewhere in the post, it's probably not miles.

2) Why is it dangerous to "flush the ATX fluid after 100 km"? You say you changed the fluid after "125 km" and shifts became smoother; is there a difference between "changing" and "flushing" the fluid?

I've seen other posts on the site about the relative advantages and disadvantages of changing the ATX fluid. I think changing it is a good idea, despite what Mazda says.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I called the dealer to ask about my upcoming 60k mile service and how much it is. Is it true that the skyactiv transmission is a non-serviceable transmission (which makes no sense). So they're basically saying that you can't change or flush the transmission..


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Yes as I mentioned they don't recommend changing the oil, and some dealers may do it for you but on your own responsibility. But it's easy to be performed by your self if you don't intend to change the internal filter which requires removing the transmission's fluid pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have none of these issues on my car, as I only have 12,600 miles on it, but I'm confused by a couple of items:

1) you mention changing the ATX fluid at "100km"; I'm assuming you don't mean "100 kilometers", so do you mean "100,000 kilometers" or "100,000 (or 100K) miles"? Since you use "km" to indicate speed elsewhere in the post, it's probably not miles.

2) Why is it dangerous to "flush the ATX fluid after 100 km"? You say you changed the fluid after "125 km" and shifts became smoother; is there a difference between "changing" and "flushing" the fluid?

I've seen other posts on the site about the relative advantages and disadvantages of changing the ATX fluid. I think changing it is a good idea, despite what Mazda says.
Yes I meant kilometers. Flushing basically means getting all old fluid out from the transmission which is more thorough than the basic changing. Changing doesn't extract all fluid but it does to the fluid being in the pan only. The reason why they recommend avoiding flushing after 100 Km is that flushing may remove all particles and debris between the clutches and gears that keep them intact and able to make gears function and drag each other. If you are interested, there is a video on Youtube explains the differences between changing and flushing the transmission's fluid by Chrisfix which I recommend watching.
 
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