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HI all

I have a Mazda 6 2.2d Skyactiv 2015 (103Kmiles) and recently I have been experiencing similar problems to some of the previous posters. I now think I have solved my issues and thought I would share some feedback.

The problem started approximately 18 months ago (80Kmiles) with a noticeable flat spot at low-speed acceleration. Gradually and more frequently the engine management light and/or warning triangle would illuminate with various faults logged which were mainly:

P0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P2262 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Pressure A Not Detected – Mechanical
P258B - Vacuum Pump Control Circuit A Range/Performance

As time progressed “SCBS Forward Malfunction” (Smart City Brake Support) started to illuminate on the dashboard, mainly when braking after a period of motorway driving. Interrogating the codes showed various other minor faults would also be logged relating to the anti-lock brakes, electric parking brake, stop start unit and other electronic modules.
Mostly, the car’s performance was acceptable, so in parallel with checking the sensors pipes, wiring etc, I would just reset the faults and carry on using the car as normal.

Without warning, my DPF became blocked (Code P2463- Diesel Particulate Filter – Soot Accumulation too high) which was a little surprising as I drive 80 motorway miles per day. I had nothing to suggest the car was not regenerating during this time but it mustn’t have been. I was unable to carry out a static regen due to the level of blockage and had to have the DPF removed and cleaned. I now know that some of these faults inhibit regen whilst active and they were occurring quite frequently.

TIP: If you are using a diagnostic tool/scanner, keep an eye on the DPF regen count every week or two. If it is not increasing carry out a static regen. The DPF is expensive to remove for cleaning as it is located between the engine and bulkhead and requires removal of the front subframe and steering rack.

At the same time as the DPF clean, I replaced the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor No1 as there are reports that this sensor can cause P2262 faults. Many people on forums have reported that replacing this sensor cured their faults. Mazda have upgraded this part due to unspecified problems so I thought it was worth a shot. The sensor sits on top of the engine at the back, under the heat shield. The original sensor is a plastic block with an orange rubber cover whereas the new part is stainless steel and circular. For me, this made no difference.

Later during my ongoing investigations, I removed my injectors to replace the sealing washers as these have also been upgraded by Mazda. The original washers did not seal correctly and caused blow-by, diluting the engine oil with diesel. Whilst the injectors were out, I removed the head “Rocker” cover and found very significant wear on the exhaust camshaft lobes. Further research revealed this is a common problem and in most cases is related to the camshaft quality rather than oil starvation. (See the photos in the earlier post from Sigour.)
I replaced the camshaft and followers which made a significant improvement to the performance and fuel efficiency. Acceleration became much sharper and consumption is now up from 43mpg to 53mpg on the motorway. The camshaft replacement isn’t very difficult provided you are competent with the spanners and understand the importance of its alignment on the timing chain.

To my dismay. I was still logging P0101, P2262, P258B, SCBS etc.. on a regular, if not daily basis.

Further research uncovered reports that metal fragments from the worn camshaft can find their way into the vacuum pump and grind the seals, thus reducing its efficiency. Spurred on by recent positive results, I went straight for replacement (I didn’t test mine as I don’t have the equipment.)

My problems are now 95% cured. I Have had just one P2262 flag up in the two weeks since replacement but suspect I may still have carbon in my EGR valve, Intake valve and MAP sensor which I will clean in due course. No other faults have been logged.

Its possible the camshaft metal has got into the turbo bearings also. So far it seems ok and hopefully a carbon clean will rectify any remaining issues.

In conclusion, I suspect the poor acceleration and fuel economy may be caused by a worn exhaust camshaft and the fault codes by a worn vacuum pump. You may not have both conditions.

Hope this info helps someone.
Thanks for the info Joe, iv recently had the p258B00 warning for the vacuum pump. Brought it to a mazda dealer today and they said the vacuum pump was damaged and needs replacing. I'm booked in for Friday (2 days time) will report back if this works.
 
UPDATE:

I had the camshaft replaced, my exhaust valves weren't pushed open anymore. hence the low mpg, low power, hesitation and very low power above 4000 rpm. The car is incredibly fast now (also had a remap so it ll make about 230 hp now) .



View attachment 246023
View attachment 246024
Worn camshaft is well known on certain vins, early 2013 due to the cam follower being too hard.
 
Hello All,

For a while, I've been experiencing intermittent issues with my Mazda 6.
My car does struggle sometimes whilst cruising between 1.8-2.5k rpm (as if it was choking, also hesitatates during acceleration).
It seems like the fuel consumption is higher than it should be.

I had it checked by a mechanic and no faults were found.
Had it fully serviced, replaced SCV valve, had the engine carbon cleaned which helped for a few days.
I've cleaned MAF & MAP sensors, which helped further (MAP was completely covered with carbon).
I wanted to get my EGR and Intake Manifold cleaned next (walnut blasting) as I suspect EGR valve could be causing it (DPF would be next on my list).

Whilst checking the live data I've noticed that:
-Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) is stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1) is also stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
What are your readings for these 2 sensors?
Zeil,

Don't worry about the -40C temp on the air side, I get that and the car runs ok.
If the fuel additive drops the temp in the DPF then you don't want to be using it. High temps burn off the carbon in the DPF as they are designed to do.

You should be achieving 50 mpg in the town and 60+ on a long run.
Any 2014 - 2016 (so far) may suffer from worn injectors and no amount of snake oil added will do any good.
Erkish is having that problem now, check out my replies.
People who have these problems often sell the car with the problem and don't say anything, so 2nd & 3rd owners inherit a problem.
I had my car from new, its 8 years old 70+k miles and I had to have a new set of injectors , late 40k's. Its a known problem but kept quiet as its expensive.

What you need to be checking on is Lube oil dilution and frequency of regens by subtracting two total regens and dividing by the miles between them, usually when you add diesel at 2-300 miles. Never let you tank go below 1/4. Ignore the Miles left screen, lot of nonsense.
 
HI all I have a Mazda 6 2.2d Skyactiv 2015 (103Kmiles) and recently I have been experiencing similar problems to some of the previous posters. I now think I have solved my issues and thought I would share some feedback. The problem started approximately 18 months ago (80Kmiles) with a noticeable flat spot at low-speed acceleration. Gradually and more frequently the engine management light and/or warning triangle would illuminate with various faults logged which were mainly: P0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance P2262 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Pressure A Not Detected – Mechanical P258B - Vacuum Pump Control Circuit A Range/Performance As time progressed “SCBS Forward Malfunction” (Smart City Brake Support) started to illuminate on the dashboard, mainly when braking after a period of motorway driving. Interrogating the codes showed various other minor faults would also be logged relating to the anti-lock brakes, electric parking brake, stop start unit and other electronic modules. Mostly, the car’s performance was acceptable, so in parallel with checking the sensors pipes, wiring etc, I would just reset the faults and carry on using the car as normal. Without warning, my DPF became blocked (Code P2463- Diesel Particulate Filter – Soot Accumulation too high) which was a little surprising as I drive 80 motorway miles per day. I had nothing to suggest the car was not regenerating during this time but it mustn’t have been. I was unable to carry out a static regen due to the level of blockage and had to have the DPF removed and cleaned. I now know that some of these faults inhibit regen whilst active and they were occurring quite frequently. TIP: If you are using a diagnostic tool/scanner, keep an eye on the DPF regen count every week or two. If it is not increasing carry out a static regen. The DPF is expensive to remove for cleaning as it is located between the engine and bulkhead and requires removal of the front subframe and steering rack. At the same time as the DPF clean, I replaced the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor No1 as there are reports that this sensor can cause P2262 faults. Many people on forums have reported that replacing this sensor cured their faults. Mazda have upgraded this part due to unspecified problems so I thought it was worth a shot. The sensor sits on top of the engine at the back, under the heat shield. The original sensor is a plastic block with an orange rubber cover whereas the new part is stainless steel and circular. For me, this made no difference. Later during my ongoing investigations, I removed my injectors to replace the sealing washers as these have also been upgraded by Mazda. The original washers did not seal correctly and caused blow-by, diluting the engine oil with diesel. Whilst the injectors were out, I removed the head “Rocker” cover and found very significant wear on the exhaust camshaft lobes. Further research revealed this is a common problem and in most cases is related to the camshaft quality rather than oil starvation. (See the photos in the earlier post from Sigour.) I replaced the camshaft and followers which made a significant improvement to the performance and fuel efficiency. Acceleration became much sharper and consumption is now up from 43mpg to 53mpg on the motorway. The camshaft replacement isn’t very difficult provided you are competent with the spanners and understand the importance of its alignment on the timing chain. To my dismay. I was still logging P0101, P2262, P258B, SCBS etc.. on a regular, if not daily basis. Further research uncovered reports that metal fragments from the worn camshaft can find their way into the vacuum pump and grind the seals, thus reducing its efficiency. Spurred on by recent positive results, I went straight for replacement (I didn’t test mine as I don’t have the equipment.) My problems are now 95% cured. I Have had just one P2262 flag up in the two weeks since replacement but suspect I may still have carbon in my EGR valve, Intake valve and MAP sensor which I will clean in due course. No other faults have been logged. Its possible the camshaft metal has got into the turbo bearings also. So far it seems ok and hopefully a carbon clean will rectify any remaining issues. In conclusion, I suspect the poor acceleration and fuel economy may be caused by a worn exhaust camshaft and the fault codes by a worn vacuum pump. You may not have both conditions. Hope this info helps someone.
Christ ! ,you replaced a fair amount of gear for only ( only ) 95% of problems gone. Mine ( 2013 maz6 diesel , 95k) , comes up with a warning light, every 200kms or so ( vacuum pump issue ) , however the vac pump was replaced by mazda ( recall = free ) at 70k . I am ripping my hair out trying to solve it , as I love this car . All the best mate.
 
Early 2013's were known for wearing out the camshafts, I believe the swarf that came off affected the vacuum pump.
Have a look through the oil filler see if you can see anything abnormal.
Failing that take it to a Mazda Dealer, thouģh if it is that they will need to do it anyway.
 
Thanks for reply mate ! , the mazda dealer / service branch's down here in OZ, are mainly staffed by late teen , early 20's blokes, who don't know alot about the intricacies of engine diagnosis. So that why I reach out to platforms such as this.
I suspected as such , ie; the cam wearing from shit metal construction , throwing shards into the brake vacuum pump.
I probably will ( myself ) replace the cam , rockers , and vacuum pump , to fix this problem. And hopefully it will fix the warning light , and improve fuel economy ( I get 6.9L per 100km - and this is mostly, 95% highway driving )
I'll keep everyone informed 👍🇦🇺🤔
 
G'day Vonadz,
I think most car dealers are staffed by similar muppets (not just car dealers èither),normally sales people or mechanics who have decided not to get their hands dirty.
Best thing is speak directly with the Service Manager, though some of them are more interested in their spreadsheets than dealing with customers.
Here is some data I collected and posted on the M6OC forum
(http://www.mazda6oc.co.uk) of recalls under Gen 3 as a sticky, TSB's and other faults that Mazda have had to attend to with various 2.2d models.
Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Slope
Gas Font Rim Machine Automotive tire

If your camshaft is similar to this then the engine needs to come out and it comes out via the bottom, not the top.
It will mean a full strip down to make sur there is no swarf anywhere in the engine. Mazda just flushes it in situ which is a bodgers way of doing it as you cannot guarrantee if there is any swarf left in the engine to do further damage. And Mazda call themselves 'engineers' .
The cause was the cam followers were too hard so wore the cams as can be seen.
Good luck , keep us posted.
 
May I know what happened to the camshaft? And what's the odometer reading? [/QUOTE Common issue with the first batch of gen3 models apparently, most have been recalled. I had about 190.000km at this point. Meanwhile I have remapped the car after the new cam (210hp, 480nM) . And driven it spirited for 40.000 km (now I'm at 230k km) .
 
Common issue with the first batch of gen3 models apparently, most have been recalled. I had about 190.000km at this point. Meanwhile I have remapped the car after the new cam (210hp, 480nM) . And driven it spirited for 40.000 km (now I'm at 230k km) .
 
Hello All,

For a while, I've been experiencing intermittent issues with my Mazda 6.
My car does struggle sometimes whilst cruising between 1.8-2.5k rpm (as if it was choking, also hesitatates during acceleration).
It seems like the fuel consumption is higher than it should be.

I had it checked by a mechanic and no faults were found.
Had it fully serviced, replaced SCV valve, had the engine carbon cleaned which helped for a few days.
I've cleaned MAF & MAP sensors, which helped further (MAP was completely covered with carbon).
I wanted to get my EGR and Intake Manifold cleaned next (walnut blasting) as I suspect EGR valve could be causing it (DPF would be next on my list).

Whilst checking the live data I've noticed that:
-Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) is stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1) is also stuck at -40 degrees Celcius

I'm not sure what the correct temperature should be, but the fact that it doesn't change would suggest these sensors are faulty.

Have you experienced similar issues?
Do you know where are these sensors located?
What are your readings for these 2 sensors?

I've purchased a Haynes Manual for my car but it seems like it does not contain this information.

I would much appreciate it if you could help me out

Many Thanks

Hi! Old post i know, but just if you were wondering if those values were normal. For my 2017 2.2d, the charge air cooler reads the following.
Charge Air Cooler Temperature Bank 1, Sensor 1: -40C (same as you) ,
Charge Air Cooler Temperature Bank 1, Sensor 2: 14C.


Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (bank 1): doesn't exist in my readings. I only have the below with normal readings:
EXHTEMP3 - Exhaust Gas temperature Sensor (lower),
EXHTEMP2 - Exhaust Gas temperature Sensor (middle),
EXHTEMP1 - Exhaust Gas temperature Sensor (upper).
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the -40°C, that's not achievable, in fact it would lead to problems in the cylinder and you could have brittle fracture of components at that temperature. 14°C could be ambient or after intercooler after its been compressed and cooled.

I will ask my SM why it reads that as it must be a sensor not used, even in the AC thats a bit low. Doubt if he has come across it though.
 
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