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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

For a while, I've been experiencing intermittent issues with my Mazda 6.
My car does struggle sometimes whilst cruising between 1.8-2.5k rpm (as if it was choking, also hesitatates during acceleration).
It seems like the fuel consumption is higher than it should be.

I had it checked by a mechanic and no faults were found.
Had it fully serviced, replaced SCV valve, had the engine carbon cleaned which helped for a few days.
I've cleaned MAF & MAP sensors, which helped further (MAP was completely covered with carbon).
I wanted to get my EGR and Intake Manifold cleaned next (walnut blasting) as I suspect EGR valve could be causing it (DPF would be next on my list).

Whilst checking the live data I've noticed that:
-Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) is stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1) is also stuck at -40 degrees Celcius

I'm not sure what the correct temperature should be, but the fact that it doesn't change would suggest these sensors are faulty.

Have you experienced similar issues?
Do you know where are these sensors located?
What are your readings for these 2 sensors?

I've purchased a Haynes Manual for my car but it seems like it does not contain this information.

I would much appreciate it if you could help me out

Many Thanks
 

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Welcome to the club!

Unfortunately, only a few members here have the diesel variant. I don't know much about cars so I can only point you to this topic:

 

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My Mazda 2.2d 2016 auto hesitates at very low speed and under light throttle, can do it about 5 or 6 times and then nothing all day. Very random, i've been recording the live data and no errors, I have the Thinkcar diagnostics and went back to the recorded data to find the data needed. This was taken last Saturday on a 5 mile journey so it was only just up to temp.

Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) - constantly changing throughout the driver - max 50 degree F
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1)- can't find sensor 4 - I have 1 ,2,3 -Temperatures constantly changing - max was sensor 1 - 700 degC

No idea where these sensors are - but suggests the sensors are at fault or have something in common.

Please post any updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cheers for getting back to me.
I would suggest
My Mazda 2.2d 2016 auto hesitates at very low speed and under light throttle, can do it about 5 or 6 times and then nothing all day. Very random, i've been recording the live data and no errors, I have the Thinkcar diagnostics and went back to the recorded data to find the data needed. This was taken last Saturday on a 5 mile journey so it was only just up to temp.

Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) - constantly changing throughout the driver - max 50 degree F
Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1)- can't find sensor 4 - I have 1 ,2,3 -Temperatures constantly changing - max was sensor 1 - 700 degC

No idea where these sensors are - but suggests the sensors are at fault or have something in common.

Please post any updates.
Cheers for getting back to me.
I would suggest you look at the live data and check if all the reading are changing.

If not, you may be having a faulty sensor.

Try cleaning MAP sensor as it made a huge difference for me and it is easy to do.
You can find it on left hand side of the engine, near the alternator (only one screw). Make sure you use an appropriate MAF/MAP cleaner.

You can also clean MAF sensor. It is located on air intake, right next to air filter.

You may have some carbon buildup on your egr valve and in your intake manifold. Cleaning it may improve things, although you will be looking at around £450 for walnut blasting (if you want it done properly).

Try some fuel additive that reduces dpf regeneration temp, it will help a little.

Good luck
 

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Yes already cleaned the Map and MAF sensors, will try the fuel additive to see, The problem is so intermittent.

All the sensors are working and changing, there are too many and not sure which one's to focus on, No DTC's codes.

I was thinking it could be an EGR valve and intake as the MAP sensor was covered in carbon.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes already cleaned the Map and MAF sensors, will try the fuel additive to see, The problem is so intermittent.

All the sensors are working and changing, there are too many and not sure which one's to focus on, No DTC's codes.

I was thinking it could be an EGR valve and intake as the MAP sensor was covered in carbon.

Cheers
It could also be SCV Valve on fuel pump.
I've changed mine but didn't help.
You can try to remove it and turn it 180 degrees as sometimes it helps.

It is a relatively easy job (held by only 2 screws) but you need to remove the battery to gain access.

It is located on the left hand side of the battery.

In terms of fuel additives, I tried triple qx (may still be on sale at euro car parts).
 

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Hello All,

For a while, I've been experiencing intermittent issues with my Mazda 6.
My car does struggle sometimes whilst cruising between 1.8-2.5k rpm (as if it was choking, also hesitatates during acceleration).
It seems like the fuel consumption is higher than it should be.

I had it checked by a mechanic and no faults were found.
Had it fully serviced, replaced SCV valve, had the engine carbon cleaned which helped for a few days.
I've cleaned MAF & MAP sensors, which helped further (MAP was completely covered with carbon).
I wanted to get my EGR and Intake Manifold cleaned next (walnut blasting) as I suspect EGR valve could be causing it (DPF would be next on my list).

Whilst checking the live data I've noticed that:
-Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) is stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1) is also stuck at -40 degrees Celcius

I'm not sure what the correct temperature should be, but the fact that it doesn't change would suggest these sensors are faulty.

Have you experienced similar issues?
Do you know where are these sensors located?
What are your readings for these 2 sensors?

I've purchased a Haynes Manual for my car but it seems like it does not contain this information.

I would much appreciate it if you could help me out

Many Thanks
Hello All,

For a while, I've been experiencing intermittent issues with my Mazda 6.
My car does struggle sometimes whilst cruising between 1.8-2.5k rpm (as if it was choking, also hesitatates during acceleration).
It seems like the fuel consumption is higher than it should be.

I had it checked by a mechanic and no faults were found.
Had it fully serviced, replaced SCV valve, had the engine carbon cleaned which helped for a few days.
I've cleaned MAF & MAP sensors, which helped further (MAP was completely covered with carbon).
I wanted to get my EGR and Intake Manifold cleaned next (walnut blasting) as I suspect EGR valve could be causing it (DPF would be next on my list).

Whilst checking the live data I've noticed that:
-Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) is stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1) is also stuck at -40 degrees Celcius

I'm not sure what the correct temperature should be, but the fact that it doesn't change would suggest these sensors are faulty.

Have you experienced similar issues?
Do you know where are these sensors located?
What are your readings for these 2 sensors?

I've purchased a Haynes Manual for my car but it seems like it does not contain this information.

I would much appreciate it if you could help me out

Many Thanks
Hi just found this post while were searching for the solution of exactly same thing,
Same 2.2 skyactiv-d engine
Everything is exactly same as your post,
Did you manage to find out about the sensors reading? Why are there -40C on CACT ?
I have been told this engine has only 2 EGT Sensors so not to worry about bank 1 Sensor 4
Please update us with anything you might find out since?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello,
I've ended up going directly to Mazda. I've explained what the issue was and they've changed the exhaust pressure sensor... Both readings still show -40 degrees Celsius. I'm pretty sure they've changed the wrong sensor although my car runs a little better. They've advised carbon clean and I had it done yesterday (I've negotiated the price down to £450).
It runs better however both readings are still stuck at the same value. My whole inlet was loaded with carbon BTW.
What is your mpg? I usually get around 32mpg and they've told me it should be around 48mpg.
 

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Thanks for getting back to me,
I have got the Exhaust pressure sensor changed already that was for the codes i was getting p0472 and p2622, seen some one on YouTube and got it changed
these readings are still there, some one on a Facebook group told me there are only 3 EGT sensors so the 4th one on bank1 Sensor 4 is just random that obd2 reader is showing, also the
Im getting error code P258b vacuum pump error also P0101 Mass/volume Airflow sensor, i have changed the MAF sensor and cleaned MAP sensor which was full of carbon that makes me think my car has also carbon build up in intake manifold as its on 115k on clock, and these engines have common issues for carbon build up,
I recently bought the car been a month or so and only drove it around 1000 miles my MPG is around 36-38 local in normal condition if its peak hours it can go down to 30, all depends on traffic and weather condition, since i bought the car its cold weather so it does effect a lot on mpg,
I can guess 48mpg can be achievable but on highway/ motorway with light foot, but these engines don't like light foot that is the main reason for carbon build up,
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Try carbon clean if you can afford it.
Mine has only 35k miles on the clock and was loaded with carbon, so I'm guessing yours will be even more clogged up.
Do not go for mobile carbon clean as I had it done (paid £180...) and it did virtually nothing.
Walnut shell blasting is the way to go.
I guess I need to drive a little bit more to give the computer a chance to relearn as I just had it done.
Let me know if you find what is the part number for charge air cooler Bank 1 sensor 1 (if it actually exist).
I will let you know if I find the solution first.
 

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Hey all of you! Finally a forum with people who also have these problems. I have a 2014 mazda 3 2.2 diesel and its not showing fault codes, it drives, but its lacking some power (122 engine hp) , its burning oil, I have 33 MPG by driving normal, a lot of highway even. and the car hesitates in low speeds/ rpm's, especially on a cold engine. also it takes 1 or 2 seconds to give power after I change gear. Did anyone figure out which sensor to blame? I had a walnut shell intake/turbo/EGR/valves clean, had the injectors cleaned by mazda and also replaced the seals, I had a dpf clean, full service, airflow sensor (on air i take) replaced but still the same basic problems, guessing is becoming expensive 😏
 

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UPDATE:

I had the camshaft replaced, my exhaust valves weren't pushed open anymore. hence the low mpg, low power, hesitation and very low power above 4000 rpm. The car is incredibly fast now (also had a remap so it ll make about 230 hp now) .



Automotive tire Gas Wood Composite material Automotive wheel system

Wood Engineering Automotive tire Gas Household hardware
 

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UPDATE:

I had the camshaft replaced, my exhaust valves weren't pushed open anymore. hence the low mpg, low power, hesitation and very low power above 4000 rpm. The car is incredibly fast now (also had a remap so it ll make about 230 hp now) .



View attachment 246023
View attachment 246024
May I know what happened to the camshaft? And what's the odometer reading?
 

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HI all

I have a Mazda 6 2.2d Skyactiv 2015 (103Kmiles) and recently I have been experiencing similar problems to some of the previous posters. I now think I have solved my issues and thought I would share some feedback.

The problem started approximately 18 months ago (80Kmiles) with a noticeable flat spot at low-speed acceleration. Gradually and more frequently the engine management light and/or warning triangle would illuminate with various faults logged which were mainly:

P0101 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P2262 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Pressure A Not Detected – Mechanical
P258B - Vacuum Pump Control Circuit A Range/Performance

As time progressed “SCBS Forward Malfunction” (Smart City Brake Support) started to illuminate on the dashboard, mainly when braking after a period of motorway driving. Interrogating the codes showed various other minor faults would also be logged relating to the anti-lock brakes, electric parking brake, stop start unit and other electronic modules.
Mostly, the car’s performance was acceptable, so in parallel with checking the sensors pipes, wiring etc, I would just reset the faults and carry on using the car as normal.

Without warning, my DPF became blocked (Code P2463- Diesel Particulate Filter – Soot Accumulation too high) which was a little surprising as I drive 80 motorway miles per day. I had nothing to suggest the car was not regenerating during this time but it mustn’t have been. I was unable to carry out a static regen due to the level of blockage and had to have the DPF removed and cleaned. I now know that some of these faults inhibit regen whilst active and they were occurring quite frequently.

TIP: If you are using a diagnostic tool/scanner, keep an eye on the DPF regen count every week or two. If it is not increasing carry out a static regen. The DPF is expensive to remove for cleaning as it is located between the engine and bulkhead and requires removal of the front subframe and steering rack.

At the same time as the DPF clean, I replaced the Exhaust Gas Pressure Sensor No1 as there are reports that this sensor can cause P2262 faults. Many people on forums have reported that replacing this sensor cured their faults. Mazda have upgraded this part due to unspecified problems so I thought it was worth a shot. The sensor sits on top of the engine at the back, under the heat shield. The original sensor is a plastic block with an orange rubber cover whereas the new part is stainless steel and circular. For me, this made no difference.

Later during my ongoing investigations, I removed my injectors to replace the sealing washers as these have also been upgraded by Mazda. The original washers did not seal correctly and caused blow-by, diluting the engine oil with diesel. Whilst the injectors were out, I removed the head “Rocker” cover and found very significant wear on the exhaust camshaft lobes. Further research revealed this is a common problem and in most cases is related to the camshaft quality rather than oil starvation. (See the photos in the earlier post from Sigour.)
I replaced the camshaft and followers which made a significant improvement to the performance and fuel efficiency. Acceleration became much sharper and consumption is now up from 43mpg to 53mpg on the motorway. The camshaft replacement isn’t very difficult provided you are competent with the spanners and understand the importance of its alignment on the timing chain.

To my dismay. I was still logging P0101, P2262, P258B, SCBS etc.. on a regular, if not daily basis.

Further research uncovered reports that metal fragments from the worn camshaft can find their way into the vacuum pump and grind the seals, thus reducing its efficiency. Spurred on by recent positive results, I went straight for replacement (I didn’t test mine as I don’t have the equipment.)

My problems are now 95% cured. I Have had just one P2262 flag up in the two weeks since replacement but suspect I may still have carbon in my EGR valve, Intake valve and MAP sensor which I will clean in due course. No other faults have been logged.

Its possible the camshaft metal has got into the turbo bearings also. So far it seems ok and hopefully a carbon clean will rectify any remaining issues.

In conclusion, I suspect the poor acceleration and fuel economy may be caused by a worn exhaust camshaft and the fault codes by a worn vacuum pump. You may not have both conditions.

Hope this info helps someone.
 

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Hello All,

For a while, I've been experiencing intermittent issues with my Mazda 6.
My car does struggle sometimes whilst cruising between 1.8-2.5k rpm (as if it was choking, also hesitatates during acceleration).
It seems like the fuel consumption is higher than it should be.

I had it checked by a mechanic and no faults were found.
Had it fully serviced, replaced SCV valve, had the engine carbon cleaned which helped for a few days.
I've cleaned MAF & MAP sensors, which helped further (MAP was completely covered with carbon).
I wanted to get my EGR and Intake Manifold cleaned next (walnut blasting) as I suspect EGR valve could be causing it (DPF would be next on my list).

Whilst checking the live data I've noticed that:
-Charge Air Cooler Temperature Sensor 1 (Bank 1) is stuck at -40 degrees Celcius
-Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 4 (Bank 1) is also stuck at -40 degrees Celcius

I'm not sure what the correct temperature should be, but the fact that it doesn't change would suggest these sensors are faulty.

Have you experienced similar issues?
Do you know where are these sensors located?
What are your readings for these 2 sensors?

I've purchased a Haynes Manual for my car but it seems like it does not contain this information.

I would much appreciate it if you could help me out

Many Thanks
Did you find out what sensors where causing your problem
 

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It could also be SCV Valve on fuel pump.
I've changed mine but didn't help.
You can try to remove it and turn it 180 degrees as sometimes it helps.

It is a relatively easy job (held by only 2 screws) but you need to remove the battery to gain access.

It is located on the left hand side of the battery.

In terms of fuel additives, I tried triple qx (may still be on sale at euro car parts).
Did you get the sensors sorted and what was the problem
 
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