Better late then never right? Highly recommend using the Mazda PE01 oil filter and a 0W20 oil of your preference.Simply, where do you place the jack/jack stands?
is there a DIY for oil change
Love this graphic. Anyone know where it came from? Is it an official Mazda graphic from a shop manual or something? I don't see it in the Owner's Manual.Jack points:
I've been fine putting jackstands on pinch welds without bending them on several cars in the past, including my 4,800 lb Durango. I'd tend to do it carefully on the 6, monitoring it closely for signs of bending as I go. I see the scissor jack supplied with the car has a cutout to straddle the pinch weld, but it doesn't look to me like it spreads the load to the surrounding body.It is basically impossible to do so, yes.
You can jack on the rail using a rubber puck or similar (distribute the load) as with the tire-change jack, then support with stands on the LARGE control arm brackets. That doesn't work if you need to do something with the front suspension components but that's an extraordinarily-beefy place to put a jackstand that can definitely take the load without a problem while you do your work.
The other alternative is to, as noted, use ramps to get the clearance to jack on the front crossmember pad but you still need to place your stands. Common jackstands on the outside rail points NEED a load spreader of some type or you're likely to roll the pinch weld area. That's where you need to put them if doing suspension work, obviously, but you will need to figure out a means to spread the load as a "bare" stand will concentrate it too much otherwise.
Thanks but again I've jacked up several vehicles completely off the ground using center jack points and jack stands on the pinch welds. Never had a close call but I consider myself to be "extremely careful".Be EXTREMELY careful if you need all four wheels off the ground. Those "center" jack points are safe to use IF the other two wheels are down, but if they're not you need to be EXTREMELY careful -- it's not all that hard to put enough side or front-to-back load to topple the other end of the vehicle off the stands in that sort of situation and if you do..... Paying very close attention to the first two stands you place and how stable they are is essential if you need all 4 wheels off the ground at once.
Does the bottom side that sits on the jack have some grooves to prevent slipping?
Not really worried about slippage. My jack pad is already rubber so slippage should be minimal. If I need grooves I will must make some myself in the bottom or maybe glue some sandpaper to create better traction.Does the bottom side that sits on the jack have some grooves to prevent slipping?
I like the urethane material better then using a real hockey puck. The urethane seems to be a bit softer and more forgiving.Those work pretty well, as does a hockey puck with a slot cut in it. The latter is good for a while but will split. No idea how long that one will last before it does.
Check this out. These could be dangerous.
First off the adapter I bought is a very stiff urethane and not soft like the one in the video. Also mine only has a single slit cut that is thin and not crazy wide like the ones in the video. I already tried it out and it didn't flex at all. It only needs to get the car lifted so I can get a jack stands placed.Check this out. These could be dangerous.
Thanks for sharing this info.