Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I just got a 6 with BOSE and after reading many of the post on here I am a bit overwhelmed as to all the issues with upgrading the system.

Can I and would it be easier to just install all aftermarket stuff and take out the BOSE equipment?

Is there a Harness adapter so I don't have to cut wires, I haven't seen one for the BOSE system.

Basically I want to upgrade the system a little, I need a little more bass, I want better tweeters and the doors are not bad just need to stop them from rattling. If I had to replace them because they are BOSE then that is fine to.

And last but not least I want iPod control via steering wheel probably via the new Alpine Full-Speed connection via a Alpine HU.

Can someone please guide me as to what my best options are to persue considering my wants for this upgrade.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Depends on what your needs are, what your budget is, and how much work you want to do yourself. If you're looking for maximum SPL (sound pressure level, ie. loud!!), then you're best gutting it all and putting in parts capable of much higher sound output.

If you're just looking for some SQ (sound quallity) improvement with minimal cost, a system that looks pretty stock, and don't mind doing some relatively straight forward disassembly and installation (which is the way I'm going) then maybe my path (in the following order) is one you'd want to consider:

1. Change out all 4 door speakers. Current generation Infinity Kappas are the general recommendation, as they are 2 ohms and would extract the maximum power out of the Bose stock amp, which is designed for 2 ohm loads. However, if you don't listen at really loud volume levels, you could use 4 ohms speakers too.
The fronts are 6.5" round, with 3/4" tweeters in the upper corner. The tweeter mounts can be modifed to take 1" tweeters, which happen to be the size of Infinity component tweeter (mounted in diff location from midwoofer). Kappas that would fit are model 60.7cs. The rears can be either 5.25" by re-using the plastic adapter, or 6"x8" by discarding the plastic adapter and mounting directly to the plastic inner door skin. If you use separates in the back you will have to custom-mount the tweeters somewhere higher up in the door panel.
5.25" Kappa separates are model 50.7cs, 5.25" Kappa coaxials are model 52.7i, 6"x8" Kappa separates are 680.7cs, and 6"x8" Kappa coaxials are 682.7cf.
Note that older Kappas (ex. 60.5cs) are not 2 ohms, but 4 ohms. Also, the new Kappas (identified by the xxx.7 suffix), use neodymium magnets so are more efficient than the older Kappas and current Reference series. The new Kappas are 94dB or 95dB sensitivity, depending on the model, compared to 90dB to 92dB for older Kappas and current References. This mean for the same power level they're playing louder, or, not as much power is needed to generate the same loudness level.

2. Put in sound deadener like RAAMmat or Dynamat Extreme in the doors when you're installing the speakers. This significantly improves sound quality and removes much of the resonance and rattling that muffles the music. There are several threads that discuss this in detail. Do a search for more info.

3. Put sound deadener on the underside of the rear deck (if you don't want to pull the rear deck cover off), or on the top if you do pull the cover off. You could go even further and apply sound deadener on the inside surfaces of the trunk.

4. Remove the stock self-powered Bose subwoofer and replace it with something else.
To re-use the stock mounting location will mean some custom work, as the Bose sub is 9" and non-standard. An 8" sub (hard to find these days) will require a 8" to 9" adapater) while a 10" sub (much more common these days) will require cutting and trimming of the metal to make the 9" opening bigger and/or some adapter to raise the sub up a bit if you don't make the opening a full 9.25" (to fit the 10" sub). Other option is to mount the 10" from below using a special custom made adapter. Either option will require a separate, dedicated subwoofer amplifier as well, as taking out the Bose sub means losing the amp as they're integerated. Also, you'll need to check to see if the sub will work in "free-air" or infinite baffle mode. A lot will, but with the power handling capability reduced to half (for example, Infinity says most of their subs - at the least the ones I've checked - can be used in free air mode, but the power handling would be cut in half, ie, if it can handle 300Watts in an enclosed box, using it free-air reduces power handling to 150W). This isn't a big deal unless you're really going for maximum SPL. However, most people seem to go to a separate sub box sitting in the trunk.

Doing the above will cost approximately:
1. All 4 door speakers: $150 - $300, depending on the model of speakers you choose. You can buy them pretty cheaply on eBay (Ex. 60.7cs is about $150 shipped, 6812cf is about $100 shipped). If you don't trust or like eBay, try Crutchfield. It'll take about an hour to do each rear (actually longer to do the first; once you've done one the others go faster), about 1.5 to 2 hrs for the fronts (if you swap out the tweeters too).
2. Sound deadener for the doors and rear deck - about 1 roll of RAAMmat at $120, a yard or two of acoustic foam $30, a can of adhesive $10, total about $200 with shipping. Time to install, probably 3-4 hrs per door, maybe more (I haven't done it yet so don't have first hand experience).
3. Sound deadener for inside of trunk - another roll of RAAMmat, some more foam and adhesive, so figure another $200. Time to install, maybe 6-8hrs?
4. Replacement sub and amp, $200+? Time to install - depends.

I've only just started on doing the above. I was going to get Kappas all around but got some 6x8 Infinity References really cheaply, so put those in the rear doors even though they're only 4 ohms. There was a noticeable improvement in sound quality and bass definiition, and there is still plenty of volume for my needs. Why did I go with the References instead of the Kappas? Mostly because the References use a silk dome (soft material) tweeter, while the Kappas use a MMD (metal matrix, ie aluminum) tweeter. Personally I find metal dome tweeters somewhat harsh, with a bit of a metallic edge. I prefer the smoother highs of the soft dome tweeter.

MY next step is to install 6.5" separates in the front. I have a set of Infinity Reference 6010cs speakers on the way. When I install those I will do the sound deadener at the same time, both in the all the doors as well as the rear deck.

Once this is done I'm going to give a bit of time to listen and evaluate the system. I'm thinking that even though the References won't play quite as loud as stock or the Kappas, with the sound deadener eliminating the resonances and buzzes, there may be enough loudness and bass definition to meet my needs.

If not, depending on what the deficiency is, I might replace the References with Kappas, or replace the stock Bose amp with a more powerful amp optimized to drive 4 ohm Reference speakers. If I like the highs of the Reference speakers I'll probably go with the replacement amp. If the highs are a bit deficient then I'll leave the stock Bose amp in, and replace the References with Kappas instead. This would only happen if I really thought that the Kappas wouldn't make the highs to shrill or "hard edged".
If the bass is really insufficient, I'll replace the stock sub with an aftermarket sub (with amp), but, based on the improvement in bass definition and quality with just putting in the Infinity 6x8 in the rear doors I think I'm doubtful I'll need to take out the stock sub once I replace the fronts and install the sound deadener. I'm not a bass freak, and prefer quality and definition to quantity any day. I abhor one note boomy bass.

I'm quite certain I will not go with a separate sub box in the trunk. For my needs and musical tastes I just don't think the benefits are significant enough, and I want to keep the interior and trunk as stock as possible. Everybody has different priorities of course.

So, the important things are:
What kind of music do you listen to?
Do you want LOUD?
If forced to make a choice, would you go sound quality or would you go with sound intensity?
What is your budget?
How important is it to keep things pretty stock (ie. direct replacements, minimal custom work, no big boxes in the trunk)?
How much work do you want to do yourself (this affects budget)?

The path you take will depend on your personal answers to the above. Finally check this forum and the Interior Mod forum. There's lots of information on different approaches people have taken.

Hope this helped.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JSRhett

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks so much for this detailed response!

So if I decide to replace the sub then I can't use the Bose amp for the door speakers?

Also, is it true there is no dash kit for Mazda 6 2006?

I really want to add an Alpine deck with iPod full speed control, upgrade the door speakers, the tweets and perhaps something with the sub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
You can also clean up your signal by installing a CleanSweep. Many different reviews on that but if you want to stay with the stock head unit then this is "supposed" to make it sound more aftermarket. It does not amplify your signal just cleans it up with a built in EQ. I am thinking about going that route. The one I like is about $300+ USD though. Knida steep for me. That is a lowering kit, and ride is much more a fator than sound atm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Thanks so much for this detailed response!

So if I decide to replace the sub then I can't use the Bose amp for the door speakers?

Also, is it true there is no dash kit for Mazda 6 2006?

I really want to add an Alpine deck with iPod full speed control, upgrade the door speakers, the tweets and perhaps something with the sub.
[/b]
There are two amps in the Bose system. One for the 4 door speakers, located under the passenger seat. There is a separate one for the subwoofer, built into the sub. If you take out the subwoofer you also take out the subwoofer amplifier, but the amp for the door speakers is not affected.

So no, if you replace the sub you do not affect the amp for the door speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok thanks, is there a harness for the Mazda 6 2006 so I don't have to cut the factory wiring? And Also I see there is no Dash insert yet which really puts a wrench into things.

Any instructions on adding an amp to the factory system you could point me to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,068 Posts
You can also clean up your signal by installing a CleanSweep. Many different reviews on that but if you want to stay with the stock head unit then this is "supposed" to make it sound more aftermarket. It does not amplify your signal just cleans it up with a built in EQ. I am thinking about going that route. The one I like is about $300+ USD though. Knida steep for me. That is a lowering kit, and ride is much more a fator than sound atm.
[/b]
The cleanseep is a waste of money for the bose system.
The signal comming from the HU (before the amp) is dead flat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
470 Posts
Ok thanks, is there a harness for the Mazda 6 2006 so I don't have to cut the factory wiring? And Also I see there is no Dash insert yet which really puts a wrench into things.

Any instructions on adding an amp to the factory system you could point me to.
[/b]

I just got finished doing a total install and I can tell you its well worth it... A million times better...

I put in an Alpine 9813 (have an 04' 6 so I had a dash kit)
Also added 4 new speakers as well as Eclipse 4 channel amp for them (very easy to place it where the BOSE speaker amp used to be under passenger seat)
Then also added 2 10'' JL subs with a Kenwood Amp..

A few things that are a must... Sound deaden trunk... Fixed alot of rattles. I did not do the rear deck like mentioned above at first or remove BOSE sub. However after removal of BOSE Sub and sound deaden of the rear deck it made another world of difference. So whatever you decide to do, I would definatly sound deaden the rear deck and remove BOSE Sub.

Best of luck, and the Alpine HU is a good choice...Its all I have ever used and IMO they are some of the best on the market...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the help guys, is there any solution right now for adding aftermarket HU's to a 2006 6??

Why isn't there just a square insert you can add where the factory deck is, instead of needing the full panel like Metra?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
There is no aftermarket Metra kit or similar for the 2006 cars yet.

If you have manual climate control you can use the 2005 kit, but the screen won't fully function, if you have the automatic climate control the display won't work at all.

Even though the 2006 stereo looks like you could just remove it, you can't and still have the climate controls and display function properly. Trust me, many have tried and I confirmed this myself.

And like Cherryspeed said, don't waste your money on a cleansweep for the Bose system. You can pick-up the signal pre- bose amp if you want to install your own amps and have something that is perfectly flat.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top