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Firstly I'm not a qualified mechanic by any stretch I'm just going by what I've read online and with basic knowledge of cars.

So I've got a 2014 mazda 6 2.2d sport grand tourer which I bought from a trader in july, worked absolutely fine up until around a month ago when it started to show the 'low oil pressure, engine damage possible, check oil level' red triangle warning light on the cluster display along with engine management light. At first I thought this was just a sensor issue as I took it to a garage and the oil was below the X marker. He recommended I just drained the oil and changed the filter and oil so I did that and it went off.

For a few weeks. The oil level rose again and this time the oil change due notification come along with the engine management light but no oil pressure light. I then figured out this only happened when the fuel level was below about an 8th of a tank. Once filled back up the warning light would go out and business as usual.

I was getting a bit concerned as this shouldnt be happening so I did a bit of reading online and I read it could be a DPF issue with the oil level rising diesel could be going down into the oil from the injectors spraying extra diesel into the combustion chamber to burn off the excess soot that had accumulated. Thus thinning the oil out and triggering the low oil pressure warning. This made perfect sense as I do a lot of short journey driving in my job, rarely giving the exhaust time to properly regen, plus my fuel economy had dropped down to about 28mpg from the 45mpg I was getting before. So I did a forced regen on it and drove up and down the M1 at about 3000rpm for an hour and this kicked out a lot of smoke after about 20 mins so I was getting my Hopes up.

It seemed to have fixed the issue of fuel economy and the drive felt a hell of a lot smoother so I was really happy. So all that needed to be done was to change the oil again as it had been diluted with diesel and raised above its recommended level.

I did this a couple of nights ago, The oil did smell like diesel and when I took the filter off no excess oil come out after unscrewing which seemed a bit odd as it has every other time I've changed the oil. When refilled and put back together the issue just got worse, it instantly went into limp mode every time I turned the engine on and this time spat out two fault codes:

P0524 - engine oil pressure too low
P055F - engine oil pressure out of range

I cleared the codes using the obd reader I have and it just instantly put them back up. Restarting the engine didnt clear it either. I drove it back home to my house around 2 miles away and the engine sounded extremely loud on tick over like it has no oil running through it at all and is very dry. Almost like a quieter tractor. So my suspicions are pointing towards the oil pump but I dont know if it's the pump or a clogged strainer or another fault because its just beyond my knowledge.

Has anyone else seen or had this fault and can you please help as Mazda are obviously as expected saying it could be upwards of 3k to get this fixed from what I've told them but i want to know if anyone knows exactly what the problem could be so I can just buy the exact bits and replace them instead of buying loads of parts it doesnt need.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!! Really dont want to lose this car as I love it and never had problems with Mazda until now (4th mazda car)

Thanks in advance
 

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Ow.

If you ran it for a couple of miles with effectively no oil pressure the odds are very high your engine is toast. I'd bet on an oil pump failure (possibly the bypass/pressure regulator stuck open) but whatever the cause even a few seconds of operation under load with no oil pressure is usually fatal to the main and rod bearings, and often the cam too.
 

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Firstly I'm not a qualified mechanic by any stretch I'm just going by what I've read online and with basic knowledge of cars.

So I've got a 2014 mazda 6 2.2d sport grand tourer which I bought from a trader in july, worked absolutely fine up until around a month ago when it started to show the 'low oil pressure, engine damage possible, check oil level' red triangle warning light on the cluster display along with engine management light. At first I thought this was just a sensor issue as I took it to a garage and the oil was below the X marker. He recommended I just drained the oil and changed the filter and oil so I did that and it went off.

For a few weeks. The oil level rose again and this time the oil change due notification come along with the engine management light but no oil pressure light. I then figured out this only happened when the fuel level was below about an 8th of a tank. Once filled back up the warning light would go out and business as usual.

I was getting a bit concerned as this shouldnt be happening so I did a bit of reading online and I read it could be a DPF issue with the oil level rising diesel could be going down into the oil from the injectors spraying extra diesel into the combustion chamber to burn off the excess soot that had accumulated. Thus thinning the oil out and triggering the low oil pressure warning. This made perfect sense as I do a lot of short journey driving in my job, rarely giving the exhaust time to properly regen, plus my fuel economy had dropped down to about 28mpg from the 45mpg I was getting before. So I did a forced regen on it and drove up and down the M1 at about 3000rpm for an hour and this kicked out a lot of smoke after about 20 mins so I was getting my Hopes up.

It seemed to have fixed the issue of fuel economy and the drive felt a hell of a lot smoother so I was really happy. So all that needed to be done was to change the oil again as it had been diluted with diesel and raised above its recommended level.

I did this a couple of nights ago, The oil did smell like diesel and when I took the filter off no excess oil come out after unscrewing which seemed a bit odd as it has every other time I've changed the oil. When refilled and put back together the issue just got worse, it instantly went into limp mode every time I turned the engine on and this time spat out two fault codes:

P0524 - engine oil pressure too low
P055F - engine oil pressure out of range

I cleared the codes using the obd reader I have and it just instantly put them back up. Restarting the engine didnt clear it either. I drove it back home to my house around 2 miles away and the engine sounded extremely loud on tick over like it has no oil running through it at all and is very dry. Almost like a quieter tractor. So my suspicions are pointing towards the oil pump but I dont know if it's the pump or a clogged strainer or another fault because its just beyond my knowledge.

Has anyone else seen or had this fault and can you please help as Mazda are obviously as expected saying it could be upwards of 3k to get this fixed from what I've told them but i want to know if anyone knows exactly what the problem could be so I can just buy the exact bits and replace them instead of buying loads of parts it doesnt need.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!! Really dont want to lose this car as I love it and never had problems with Mazda until now (4th mazda car)

Thanks in advance
I had exactly same situation with my car. Only difference were that I took the car almost directly to the service.

The reason was partially clogged oil sump. At the service, they changed the oil sump and opened the engine enough to be sure that the engine hadn't face any damage. Luckily they didn't find anything.
 

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Firstly I'm not a qualified mechanic by any stretch I'm just going by what I've read online and with basic knowledge of cars.

So I've got a 2014 mazda 6 2.2d sport grand tourer which I bought from a trader in july, worked absolutely fine up until around a month ago when it started to show the 'low oil pressure, engine damage possible, check oil level' red triangle warning light on the cluster display along with engine management light. At first I thought this was just a sensor issue as I took it to a garage and the oil was below the X marker. He recommended I just drained the oil and changed the filter and oil so I did that and it went off.

For a few weeks. The oil level rose again and this time the oil change due notification come along with the engine management light but no oil pressure light. I then figured out this only happened when the fuel level was below about an 8th of a tank. Once filled back up the warning light would go out and business as usual.

I was getting a bit concerned as this shouldnt be happening so I did a bit of reading online and I read it could be a DPF issue with the oil level rising diesel could be going down into the oil from the injectors spraying extra diesel into the combustion chamber to burn off the excess soot that had accumulated. Thus thinning the oil out and triggering the low oil pressure warning. This made perfect sense as I do a lot of short journey driving in my job, rarely giving the exhaust time to properly regen, plus my fuel economy had dropped down to about 28mpg from the 45mpg I was getting before. So I did a forced regen on it and drove up and down the M1 at about 3000rpm for an hour and this kicked out a lot of smoke after about 20 mins so I was getting my Hopes up.

It seemed to have fixed the issue of fuel economy and the drive felt a hell of a lot smoother so I was really happy. So all that needed to be done was to change the oil again as it had been diluted with diesel and raised above its recommended level.

I did this a couple of nights ago, The oil did smell like diesel and when I took the filter off no excess oil come out after unscrewing which seemed a bit odd as it has every other time I've changed the oil. When refilled and put back together the issue just got worse, it instantly went into limp mode every time I turned the engine on and this time spat out two fault codes:

P0524 - engine oil pressure too low
P055F - engine oil pressure out of range

I cleared the codes using the obd reader I have and it just instantly put them back up. Restarting the engine didnt clear it either. I drove it back home to my house around 2 miles away and the engine sounded extremely loud on tick over like it has no oil running through it at all and is very dry. Almost like a quieter tractor. So my suspicions are pointing towards the oil pump but I dont know if it's the pump or a clogged strainer or another fault because its just beyond my knowledge.

Has anyone else seen or had this fault and can you please help as Mazda are obviously as expected saying it could be upwards of 3k to get this fixed from what I've told them but i want to know if anyone knows exactly what the problem could be so I can just buy the exact bits and replace them instead of buying loads of parts it doesnt need.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated!! Really dont want to lose this car as I love it and never had problems with Mazda until now (4th mazda car)

Thanks in advance
I had exactly same situation with my car. Only difference were that I took the car almost directly to the service.

The reason was partially clogged oil sump. At the service, they changed the oil sump and opened the engine enough to be sure that the engine hadn't face any damage. Luckily they didn't find anything.
 

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This is pretty well explained here, version just before the Skyactiv:
But SkyActiv engines still face this issue and others like the oil pump chain breaking:

I got both (+ various other) on my 2013 model ...
 

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Low oil pressure warning can also happen when your oil is diluted too much. Oil is just so thin that oil pump can't rise pressure high enough.

I had this issue this week and here is what happened. First I got yellow text "oil change needed" and I had driven only about 12000km with that oil. After that I continued driving as usually I change oil just in every 15000km. When driven about 13000km, I had red warning for low oil pressure. I stopped and checked oil pressure with my ELM adapter and it was about 20psi for idle and about 30-35psi when driving. Normal pressure should be about 25psi for idle and 50psi when accelerating.

As there were quite enough oil pressure, I decided to drive home about 40km. I measured oil pressure and oil temperature all the time when driving home.

At home I changed oil and cleared oil dilution values and trouble codes. Oil pressure trouble code couldn't be cleared by Forscan, but I had to use another app for that.

After oil change the oil pressure was again normal 25psi and 50psi.

My car had recall for software update by Mazda this spring and I am quite sure that they have changed values for oil pressure warning limits in this new software as this issue came up after thatand with relatively fresh oil.

So, when you will have yellow text recommending oil change, you should believe it and do it.
 

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Do you still have it today? May I know what problems have you encountered?

You have a funny username, by the way.
😀
Well, the "funny" username comes from the various issues I had with that car, notably the one that nearly destroyed the engine ...

I still have the car, although it is once more in the garage, my dealer found the diesel injectors are dead.
The car is now 7 years old and reached 270'000km. Fixing the injectors will cost me 3000 Euros so I'm not sure I'll do it.

Regarding the list of issues, I already posted it onto another thread but, as I've seen I forgot some of them, here is an updated list:
  • Twice the front radar failing
  • Twice the rear camera failing
  • Fuel inlet obstructed, needed assistance
  • Oil pump replaced
  • Several "low oil pressure", one of them, just a couple of months outside warranty, required the replacement of:
    • camshafts + rockers + cover replacement
    • complete turbo replacement (the axis twisted due to bad lubrication)
    • rod shells replacement
    • injectors joints replacement
    • oil pump strainer replacement
    • complete cleaning of the engine with engine oil and filter replacement, gearbox oil replacement, ...
    • normal cost would have been over 10k Euros, I finally paid around 5K Euros
  • Gearbox oil pump replaced
  • Wheel bearing replaced
  • Rear-door damper replacement (campaign)
  • Engine oil leak
  • Hand-brake check (campaign)
  • Rear brake calipers replaced (campaign)
  • Alternator belt broken, required assistance (foreign country) and lost 4 days in the country before it was locally fixed
  • i-Stop in error, battery changed
  • i-Stop in error, engine oil overheat (not sure of the link but this is what I've been told)
  • Front suspension ball joint broken, suspension arm damaged
  • Coolant pipe cracked during the Covid period and dealer was closed: I was permanently driving with 10 liters of water in the trunk
  • Oil pump chain broken
  • Diesel injectors to be replaced, engine just stopped, required assistance (foreign country)
Yes, not bad at all ...
That said it's a great car and engine ... when they work.
I'm just afraid Mazda is shooting in its own feet by continuing to sell that engine, it has major flaws.
 

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Well, the "funny" username comes from the various issues I had with that car, notably the one that nearly destroyed the engine ...

I still have the car, although it is once more in the garage, my dealer found the diesel injectors are dead.
The car is now 7 years old and reached 270'000km. Fixing the injectors will cost me 3000 Euros so I'm not sure I'll do it.

Regarding the list of issues, I already posted it onto another thread but, as I've seen I forgot some of them, here is an updated list:
  • Twice the front radar failing
  • Twice the rear camera failing
  • Fuel inlet obstructed, needed assistance
  • Oil pump replaced
  • Several "low oil pressure", one of them, just a couple of months outside warranty, required the replacement of:
    • camshafts + rockers + cover replacement
    • complete turbo replacement (the axis twisted due to bad lubrication)
    • rod shells replacement
    • injectors joints replacement
    • oil pump strainer replacement
    • complete cleaning of the engine with engine oil and filter replacement, gearbox oil replacement, ...
    • normal cost would have been over 10k Euros, I finally paid around 5K Euros
  • Gearbox oil pump replaced
  • Wheel bearing replaced
  • Rear-door damper replacement (campaign)
  • Engine oil leak
  • Hand-brake check (campaign)
  • Rear brake calipers replaced (campaign)
  • Alternator belt broken, required assistance (foreign country) and lost 4 days in the country before it was locally fixed
  • i-Stop in error, battery changed
  • i-Stop in error, engine oil overheat (not sure of the link but this is what I've been told)
  • Front suspension ball joint broken, suspension arm damaged
  • Coolant pipe cracked during the Covid period and dealer was closed: I was permanently driving with 10 liters of water in the trunk
  • Oil pump chain broken
  • Diesel injectors to be replaced, engine just stopped, required assistance (foreign country)
Yes, not bad at all ...
That said it's a great car and engine ... when they work.
I'm just afraid Mazda is shooting in its own feet by continuing to sell that engine, it has major flaws.
I've read your post in the other thread. The list you provided is "scary". I hope there's a way to mitigate those problems. On this side of the world, some features are not available for the gasoline variant but on the diesel variant only. We only have three models, sedan and wagon for gasoline. Top model is the diesel variant, sedan.

Diesel is cheap here so I was thinking that I'll save on the cost of ownership in the long run. Your experience tells me otherwise...
 

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Low oil pressure warning can also happen when your oil is diluted too much. Oil is just so thin that oil pump can't rise pressure high enough.

I had this issue this week and here is what happened. First I got yellow text "oil change needed" and I had driven only about 12000km with that oil. After that I continued driving as usually I change oil just in every 15000km. When driven about 13000km, I had red warning for low oil pressure. I stopped and checked oil pressure with my ELM adapter and it was about 20psi for idle and about 30-35psi when driving. Normal pressure should be about 25psi for idle and 50psi when accelerating.

As there were quite enough oil pressure, I decided to drive home about 40km. I measured oil pressure and oil temperature all the time when driving home.

At home I changed oil and cleared oil dilution values and trouble codes. Oil pressure trouble code couldn't be cleared by Forscan, but I had to use another app for that.

After oil change the oil pressure was again normal 25psi and 50psi.

My car had recall for software update by Mazda this spring and I am quite sure that they have changed values for oil pressure warning limits in this new software as this issue came up after thatand with relatively fresh oil.

So, when you will have yellow text recommending oil change, you should believe it and do it.
You're absolutely right!! My issues started after the software update as well 😡😡
 

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Quick update. So my car is currently at Mazda Sheffield and I've been hit with a £3000 bill for failed oil pump which ultimately has snapped the pump's chain and has inadvertently caused damage to the engine!! This surely has to be a discounted as the car was serviced by the same Mazda 4 months ago. They are refusing to tell me how the pump seized🙆🙆
 

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Hi guys. I had the same issue on a Mazda 2.2 Diesel SkyActive. Warning on low oil pressure. Checked the oil level and it was a bit over max, but as I was a very long way from home on the motorway. I drove the car another 10 miles when the car refused to accelerate. Recovered it to a Mazda dealership and they told me they need to replace the engine + turbo. Bill: £8100. I said, "no, thank you". And I took the car to a local garage. I am waiting for a second opinion before probably sending my car to scrap/salvage. Annoyingly I paid £8500 2 years ago. Now I will probably need to salvage for £1000. Will full dealership service history, all documents and keys and everything in order. Just this "minor" issue. Enough Mazda for me for this life.
 

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According your posts, it seems that the oil pump is the weakest link here and when failing can cause total damage for the engine and turbo. I believe that the oil pump was the one failing in John Andrisan's car as well.

What are the mileage of your cars who have encountered these issues? I have 2014 Mazda driven already 320 000 kilometres and getting concerned about the future. So far nothing done or wrong with my oil pump.
 

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Oil dilution is not a "minor" issue; on any common-rail engine if you have a leaking injector this will happen and, once it starts, rapidly destroy the engine. Mazda tries to give you fair warning so you can shut it down. You ignored the warning.

All common rail engine designs have this potential issue. The real question is whether these engines are more susceptible to severe dilution. This is almost-always an injector problem.
 

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I get it's not a minor issue, but I don't agree with Mazda giving fair warning. If this is a common issue for this engine for Mazda, I would expect them to include checking the injectors or whatever is the risky part on every service, which obviously didn't happen so we could anticipate a potential issue ahead of time. Fair warning is showing the light up and asking me to stop right away and tow my car to check if this is an actual issue or a sensor fault (as many people claimed to be the case on other forums) or a software update issue (again, claimed by many other people on other forums). In my case I was on the motorway, having 2 small children with me (under 3) and for a big section of that motorway was no hard shoulder, so I had to take my chances. I might be the unlucky 1 of 100, but looking back - I paid £8500 to drive a second-hand mazda for 2 years. And now a lot of hassle to get rid of it. Was it worth it? Definitely not.
 

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With Mazda the oil dilution is caused most likely due bad DPF or by driving mostly short trips. Of course it could be also caused by leaking injectors, but as this engine has this widely known problem (design fault I would say), most likely it is the reason.

Sad thing is that you really can't prevent the oil dilution to happen with this engine, but changing oils more often that is adviced will surely improve the lifetime of your engine.

I used to change my oils during last 150000km in about every 15000km, but from now on I believe I will do it in every 10000km.
 

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Meh.

It is definitely not universal. The DPF is well downstream of the engine.

This is a very common issue with common-rail engines of all sorts and it's inherent in all of them. It's simply a matter of physics; there is an effectively-unlimited supply of fuel in the rail and the only thing keeping it in there is the injector. The fuel rail pressure is extraordinary and if an injector does not seal completely at light load you will get cylinder washdown and oil dilution because at all times other than when the piston is just before TDC in the injection window if you spray fuel in the cylinder it will not burn. The oil level going UP on any engine is absolute proof of a serious problem and on ANY engine if you detect that you have to find the cause immediately and fix it, period.

Gasoline will evaporate off in small quantities so on a gas engine when you have this problem if it's very minor you can drive the car for a long time without an engine failure, provided you are not doing a lot of short trips. Diesel does not evaporate off to any material degree but still destroys the lubrication quality of the engine oil so the amount of dilution gained is cumulative and does not go away.

The usual cause is either mechanical failure due to wear or foreign material (or water!) that gets past the filter and you either get mechanical obstruction of the seal or corrosion due to moisture in the fuel; in either case the injector leaks. It's possible that the fuel filtration system inadequate on these cars; I've not looked at it in detail. But if you ever see an engine "making" oil it is not normal and the answer isn't to change the oil more-often -- it is to find the cause and fix it, NOW.
 

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Nice post, but still not quite right.

If you want more info about this issue, google it. Even Mazda itself has admitted this fault and it is real. It is not about leaking (of course it sometimes can be this as well), but it is the way these Mazda diesel engines work.
 
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