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Originally posted by Philter25@Sep 6 2005, 01:26 AM
Where are they on this?  I figured with the dashkit out the numbers would jump  :huh:
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Why would the numbers jump when this is for the stock deck?
 

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Originally posted by ceelove@Sep 5 2005, 09:33 PM
Why would the numbers jump when this is for the stock deck?
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Because I figured that half the people on the waiting list wouldnt want it when the dashkit comes out.

Dashkit = whatever head unit you want = already has aux-in to head unit = not as many people in line for auxmod.
 

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Originally posted by Philter25@Sep 12 2005, 10:43 AM
Because I figured that half the people on the waiting list wouldnt want it when the dashkit comes out.

Dashkit = whatever head unit you want = already has aux-in to head unit = not as many people in line for auxmod.
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I think you're talking about the AuxMod.. this is for the PC-ALP aux in adapter. It's readily available ..
 

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Originally posted by PostConsumerRecycled@Sep 16 2005, 07:24 PM
http://sol20.com/ATENZA/maz_pcalp_noise_E..htm

Does this eliminate ground loop noise, or is this for a different noise source?

I guess I'm really wondering if I need to buy a GLI or if this mod to the MAZ/PC-ALP take care of it?

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Hi, I am the owner of that site.

If you are good at soldering, I suggest you try my method on the site first. It does not cost you anything.

If you still hear the noise (there are cases) you can purchase GLI.

There is the third way too. You can solder AUX input connectors direct to HU, not via MAZ/PC-ALP. You cut the wires from blue connector and solder the connectors.
Let me know If you need details.
 

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what is the difference between this product and that aux/mod by sylfex?
 

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Originally posted by smashclash@Sep 19 2005, 01:16 AM
what is the difference between this product and that aux/mod by sylfex?
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Both functions quite similar except:

1. Where to connect
MAZ/PC-ALP goes to the connector for CD-changer or factory install GPS (flip up LCD model.)
You can not install MAZ/PC-ALP if you are using factory installed GPS or CD-changer (in-dash 6 CD changer is OK.)

AuxMod goes to the connector for TAPE/CD.
You can not install AuxMod if you are using either of MD or TAPE.

Double click CD button for MAZ/PC-ALP, press TAPE/MD button for AuxMod.
You can install both to get two AUX iuputs :love:

2. Modification
You need to modify cable comes with MAZ/PC-ALP and chances are you have to modify HU too if your Mazda6 is manufactured on or after Jan.2004.
Details are here: http://sol20.com/ATENZA/mazpcalp_E.htm

You do not need any modification to install AuxMod.

3. Availabillity
MAZ/PC-ALP is in stock in many mail-order stores.
AuxMod is available only from Sylfex and they are not taking new orders at this point. Check theire site for latest info: http://www.sylfex.com/products/AuxMod/

Sound quality are same and much better than any FM modulators.
 

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Originally posted by tickets@Sep 17 2005, 02:39 AM
Hi, I am the owner of that site.

If you are good at soldering, I suggest you try my method on the site first. It does not cost you anything.

If you still hear the noise (there are cases) you can purchase GLI.

There is the third way too. You can solder AUX input connectors direct to HU, not via MAZ/PC-ALP. You cut the wires from blue connector and solder the connectors.
Let me know If you need details.
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Thanks for the info tickets! I got my satellite radio installed using the MAZ/PC-ALP thanks to your site. :love: Who knows how much longer I would have been waiting for the aux mod.

I have a 2004 so I had to open up my head unit, but it wasn't too bad. One bead of solder and all done

For those interested I installed a Sirius Starmate. I installed an extra 12v power adapter behind the dash and I drilled a hole in the map pocket and ran my cables into there. I have the antenna installed in the rear deck between the metal and the material, I ran the antenna wire along the passenger side and behind the glove box. So when I have the map pocket closed you can't tell that anything's been done :ninja: nice!

The only thing is like others I'm finding that the volume isn't very high, I think I may need to install a line driver. Oh well, other than that the sound quality is good.
 

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Originally posted by tickets@Sep 18 2005, 10:22 PM
Both functions quite similar except:

1. Where to connect
MAZ/PC-ALP goes to the connector for CD-changer or factory install GPS (flip up LCD model.)
You can not install MAZ/PC-ALP if you are using factory installed GPS or CD-changer (in-dash 6 CD changer is OK.)

AuxMod goes to the connector for TAPE/CD.
You can not install AuxMod if you are using either of MD or TAPE.

Double click CD button for MAZ/PC-ALP, press TAPE/MD button for AuxMod.
You can install both to get two AUX iuputs  :love:

2. Modification
You need to modify cable comes with MAZ/PC-ALP and chances are you have to modify HU too if your Mazda6 is manufactured on or after Jan.2004.
Details are here: http://sol20.com/ATENZA/mazpcalp_E.htm

You do not need any modification to install AuxMod.

3. Availabillity
MAZ/PC-ALP is in stock in many mail-order stores.
AuxMod is available only from Sylfex and they are not taking new orders at this point. Check theire site for latest info: http://www.sylfex.com/products/AuxMod/

Sound quality are same and much better than any FM modulators.
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Thanks so much for answering my question. You did an excellent job. I have the indash changer but not sure if I want to tap in to the Sirius via the MD/tape or cd changer or not yet. I suppose I might go with both since I'd have the option to install something else later on.
 

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Originally posted by PostConsumerRecycled@Sep 19 2005, 12:09 PM
Yes, that looks like just the thing.  I was haveing a hard time finding something suitable.  Thanks!  :cheers:
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I haven't purchased one yet myself because I'm waiting to receive the Aux-mod first. Let me know how it works out for you.

Also, are you using a ground loop isolator? not sure if you need one but let me know what you end up doing. I plan on doing something similar to you but want my radio hardwired so it can remain ON all the time. Meaning, when I shut the key off I don't want the radio to turn off.

I need to modify my cig lighter to be able to do this as well as find a way to keep the radio on.

Anyone have a clue how I can do this?
 

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Originally posted by smashclash@Sep 19 2005, 11:21 AM
I haven't purchased one yet myself because I'm waiting to receive the Aux-mod first.  Let me know how it works out for you.

Also, are you using a ground loop isolator?  not sure if you need one but let me know what you end up doing.  I plan on doing something similar to you but want my radio hardwired so it can remain ON all the time.  Meaning, when I shut the key off I don't want the radio to turn off.

I need to modify my cig lighter to be able to do this as well as find a way to keep the radio on.

Anyone have a clue how I can do this?
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I'm not using a GLI right now, but it may become necassary after I install the LD-1, would be nice if I could get away with out one though.

Maybe you could use something like ATC Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap System to hardwire directly to a persistent powersupply in the fuse box. I haven't tried this myself but it seems like it would work for you. I'm assuming that there's a perssitent power source in the fuse box, I know there was on my old car when I installed a stereo in it, but I don't know about the 6. Just test with a multi-meter to find one that's hot when the car is off.

or

The power point I bought from Radio Shack has an inline fuse (very important) and came with a wire tap that I used to tap the cigeratte lighters power which is accessory, but I'm sure you could probably find a persistent power line somewhere to tap into. Though I've never had anytrouble using wire taps I'd be careful about what you tap, I wouldn't tap anything criticle.
 

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Originally posted by PostConsumerRecycled@Sep 19 2005, 01:38 PM
I'm not using a GLI right now, but it may become necassary after I install the LD-1, would be nice if I could get away with out one though.

Maybe you could use something like ATC Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap System to hardwire directly to a persistent powersupply in the fuse box.  I haven't tried this myself but it seems like it would work for you.  I'm assuming that there's a perssitent power source in the fuse box, I know there was on my old car when I installed a stereo in it, but I don't know about the 6.  Just test with a multi-meter to find one that's hot when the car is off.

or

The power point I bought from Radio Shack has an inline fuse (very important) and came with a wire tap that I used to tap the cigeratte lighters power which is accessory, but I'm sure you could probably find a persistent power line somewhere to tap into.  Though I've never had anytrouble using wire taps I'd be careful about what you tap, I wouldn't tap anything criticle.
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yeah, some others have suggested this approach as well. i was hoping to find someone else who's found a suitable "hot" wire. I guess I'll have to be the first.
 

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Originally posted by smashclash@Sep 19 2005, 11:12 AM
yeah, some others have suggested this approach as well.  i was hoping to find someone else who's found a suitable "hot" wire.  I guess I'll have to be the first.
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Anyone know how long the waitlist is for the AuxMod? I would rather go with it instead of the MAZ/PC-ALP unit as I would like to keep the CD changer. However I guess I will go with the MAZ/PC-ALP if it is going to take forever to get the AuxMod.
 

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Originally posted by kemerick@Oct 5 2005, 04:59 PM
Anyone know how long the waitlist is for the AuxMod?  I would rather go with it instead of the MAZ/PC-ALP unit as I would like to keep the CD changer.  However I guess I will go with the MAZ/PC-ALP if it is going to take forever to get the AuxMod.
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6 Disc Cd changer is still functional with this unit..
 
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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Just finished installing in my '05 non Bose hatchback. Did the cable mod, but didn't need the HU mod :)

Works great with my Roady 2. Level is excellent and no engine noise.

Thanks tickets for the instructions. Also the center console removal procedure on this site was excellent.

Chris
 

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Originally posted by christh@Oct 16 2005, 01:58 AM
Just finished installing in my '05 non Bose hatchback.  Did the cable mod, but didn't need the HU mod :)

Works great with my Roady 2.  Level is excellent and no engine noise. 

Thanks tickets for the instructions.    Also the center console removal procedure on this site was excellent.

Chris
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I want to do this as well. Been emailing syflex but it seems the wait is endless.

Just so I get the right components ordered, is this the right one for me to buy? I have a none bose too and a 05 model. Thanks

EDIT: I will be installing a xm commander with rca outs, so I won't need the mini jack cable

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=445 for the interface.
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=124 for M-Bus to RCA adapter.
 
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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Originally posted by Imina6@Oct 16 2005, 05:55 AM
I want to do this as well. Been emailing syflex but it seems the wait is endless.

Just so I get the right components ordered, is this the right one for me to buy? I have a none bose too and a 05 model. Thanks

EDIT: I will be installing a xm commander with rca outs, so I won't need the mini jack cable

http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=445 for the interface.
http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=124 for M-Bus to RCA adapter.
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I'm with you on the Syflex. Looks like a good solution, but I'm not patient enough to wait 3 months.

Those are the correct parts.

Good luck.

Chris
 

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So I just completed doing the mod and installed the MAZ/PC. Everything went fine except for the fact that after about a minute of play time the sound all goes to crap. Ive tried my ipod, my laptop, and the computer that I will be using for my carputer. They all do the same. The audio quality is great for about a minute and then it sounds like the speakers are blown. It still plays the music, but there is a lot of static. Everything else works fine except the EX1. Any ideas guys and gals?
Thanks in advance.
 
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