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Discussion Starter #1
I there a way to tell weather the Master Clutch Cylinder or the Slave Cylinder is going bad? Do I just need to Bleed the lines? How do I do that?

When I start out driving and the car is cold I have to pump the clutch pedal several times almost like I have to build up pressure or the car will not let me shift in to gear. ANY GEAR! It has gotten so bad that I have to pump the pedal twice when shifting between gears as well. Say from 2nd to 3rd and so on. I can't even get it in to reverse without pumping it a hundred times and even then it still resists me.

I have replaced my clutch and bearings with the clutchmasters stage2 and it is very strong. The shifting is so hard now that I have even broken the plastic around the bracket that holds the shift cable in place. That is a pricy little part as well.

There is no fluid leaking that I can detect but I have not looked in depth yet. It feels like that shift fork is not moving all the way in or ouy and I have even done a clutch adjustment. It worked for a few weeks and now it is worse.
If anyone has knowledge about Master and Slave Cylinders please enlighten me and help out. Please... THX
 

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i had the same problem with my old talon. first things first make sure you do have fluid in your lines, second look to see if you have any leaks, look deep mine was so bad it was leaking into my car so i didnt really see any on the ground but i did find it in my car. and it really isnt that hard to change either one just messy
 

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If it was my car, I would first try bleeding the clutch due to air getting into the system. This is also the cheapest/easiest thing to do and would rule out if it's air or you really need new parts.
Do you have a 4 cyl or 6? If it's a 4 I have a way to bleed the clutch without jacking up the car.

As for the fluid. How is the level and the color? I'm not that familiar with brake systems regarding the master/slave cylinders, but I believe if the seals are bad the fluid will turn dark really quick.

As with all fliuids, dispose of properly. (call county household hazardous waste)

Edit: The clutch bleeder on my car was the same as the brakes- 8mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It is a V6 and I can see all the lines. I even checked inside the car for leaks and I can see nor feel any. Wondering if I should just replace the whole dam system? I will be investigating it further today since I have the car in tip top shape to drive from Sac to Seattle at the end of next month.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Need to bleed the lines this weekend. Had no time last weekend...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bled the slave today and nothing changed., Took the car to my mechanic uncle and he looked at it. then told me that the throw-out bearing needs to be replaced and thet will solve all my probs. Thanks anyways guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Changed the throwout bearing and nothing changed. Still have a very hard time shifting. I think it is either where is attaches to the engine or where thye clutch pedal is. Does anyone know what it is called where the pedal adjustment is?
 

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Bled the slave today and nothing changed., Took the car to my mechanic uncle and he looked at it. then told me that the throw-out bearing needs to be replaced and thet will solve all my probs. Thanks anyways guys.[/b]
That mechanic just wanted your money.

I've never touched a Mazda, but on my car, and most others i've seen, the master cyl push-rod comes through the firewall, and has a special nut on the end of the rod that connects to the pedal. If this is how your 6 is desined, you can twist the rod itself to move the nut further out, giving the pedal a 'deeper' push into the master cyl. There might also be adjustable bump stops where the pedal is mounted. They're most likely a push button switch, again with an adjustable nut that would allow the pedal a longer swing.

Hope this helps.
 

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Bump for results or similar probs....i got a brand new bled slave cylinder, fluid, new shifter cable and i'm trying not to break it!
 

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just a suggestion i had slimier shifting issuse also.... turnout to be the clutch pedal Assembly had hairline cracks around the mounting bolts causing it to shift and not push the rod completely in causing near impossible shifting. just take a look at it while pushing it in with your hands and see if it moves away from the bolts....
 

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Ok, thx for the response, i'll check it twenty min or so when I get home.

What was your fix?

Sent from my VZW Samsung Fascinate
 

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changed the clutch pedal assembly and felt like a brand new car again. i had reinforced the new Assembly with gussets/L brackets and welded them near the bolts for no more future problems. had the dealership put it in cus it was winter at the time i paid just under 300 for part and install
 

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Yep that's mine lol. I did the cylinder rod/clutch height adjustment mod for now, hopefully it works. I've been spending $$ left to right on much needed car parts for my 6 and wife's Honda accord for the past couple of months :(

Sent from my VZW Samsung Fascinate
 
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