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I've turned 60K on my odometer this week and I've noticed that I've lost just the slightest spring in my step. The car has been religiously maintained, has used Mobil 1 0W-20 green label (advanced fuel economy) motor oil it's entire life at 7500mi intervals and has always been refueled with top tier gas (Mobil or Chevron 89 octane). I have changed the air filter at 12,000mi intervals using Wix. For past cars, I've used Gumout 2-in-1 fuel injector cleaner every 10,000mi. However, I remember a couple of people recommending NOT to use any kind of additive on the SkyActiv engine.


Interested to hear from some others on what kind of throttle body or engine maintenance I can do to try and clean things up.
 

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It's never a bad thing to check your TB, but I doubt there's much clogged up at this point (at least there wasn't with mine at the time). Due to check it again soon.

If you've noticed a slight drop in performance, it might be worth checking your plugs. For $20 and a half hour of your time, you could be back to normal (I certainly noticed a difference when I changed mine at 80k). Word of warning though, don't get the super cheap ones anywhere - a few extra $$ is worth it. Part numbers and whatnot are all here: https://forum.mazda6club.com/engine-suspension-drivetrain/401809-diy-3rd-gen-spark-plug-replacment.html :)
 

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Nature of the DI engine is that there isnt much any additives can do to the valves. One option is to take it to a reputed BMW shop and ask if they do walnut blasting on other makes. Why BMW shop ? Because they've been blasting walnut shells to clean the valves for ages. Option two which is inexpensive and DIY is to seafoam through the throttle body, just be careful that you don't hydrolock it.

Out of curiosity, what makes you think it has dropped in performance ?
 

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Out of curiosity, what makes you think it has dropped in performance ?

Just seems like acceleration is a bit laggard. I was thinking spark plugs as well, as 100,000mi is a long way to go for such a wearable item. I'll more than likely do a plug change next weekend and see how that goes after 500mi. Thanks for the help.
 

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Yea Spark Plugs be an easy process of elimination.

I've ran 2 12oz cans of the "Gumout Multi-System Tune-up" in mine no issues.
 

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...I was thinking spark plugs as well, as 100,000mi is a long way to go for such a wearable item...
Aside from how long the spark plugs actually last (by way of spark performance) the ungawdly sound they make when breaking loose (from an aluminum cylinder head) and the concomitant tearing of the aluminum threads 😐 for ME makes me want to do plugs at 50,000 mi (or at least to check them and to install new plug gaskets for their reinstallation). For me (and YMMV and you may not agree) I reinstall with a spit of engine oil on the threads and go to only 3/4's spec'd torque.
 

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Aside from how long the spark plugs actually last (by way of spark performance) the ungawdly sound they make when breaking loose (from an aluminum cylinder head) and the concomitant tearing of the aluminum threads 😐 for ME makes me want to do plugs at 50,000 mi (or at least to check them and to install new plug gaskets for their reinstallation). For me (and YMMV and you may not agree) I reinstall with a spit of engine oil on the threads and go to only 3/4's spec'd torque.
I've always had the practice of taking a thin film of motor oil to coat the threads before torqueing the plugs back in, but good point. Always a bit of an adventure taking plugs out of an aluminum head. Patience above all else goes a long way.
 

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Of the UTMOST importance is when you reinstall the plugs if you reuse the old ones MAKE VERY SURE the threads are completely clean (brass wire brush if necessary, lightly by hand not on a machine!) and start the plugs with TWO FINGERS ONLY on the extension and run them into the hole completely WITHOUT the use of a wrench. If you crossthread or damage the threads in the head you're going to curse a LOT at both the hassle and cost.

I pull plugs on aluminum-head engines at least every two years (irrespective of mileage) to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion problems from getting too severe. Aluminum is sacrificial to steel and that can and will turn into a very big problem over time if left long enough, and then you'll really have trouble getting those plugs out without damage. When removing the plugs make very, very sure NOT to sideload the wrench and extension; counterhold the top of the extension with your other hand if necessary to prevent it from sideloading the plug when you break it free, then once again remove it using your bare hands and NOT a wrench handle.
 

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Re the use of penetrating oil prior to sparkplug removal (of an obviously steel sparkplug set into an aluminum cylinder head): i) do you use a plastic straw to deliver the penetrating oil to the immediate area of the threads (realizing they are set down deep in the sparkplug well); ii) do you vacuum up same with a straw (after a period of time) so minimal amounts of the fluid makes its way, actually, into the cylinder when the plug is removed; and iii) lastly - anecdotally - I have heard that a 50/50 mix of any old ATF and acetone make a superior penetrating fluid (both I think damaging to automotive paint though).
 

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Tickerguy - I totally agree re not applying a bending moment to the plug... just a pure torque. I use an appropriate ID rubber hose on the sparkplug to restart my plugs (down the deep plug well) but that's cuz my sparkplug socket lost its rubber internal insert 😐 . I use a magnetic extendable tool to lift them up, out of the deep well.
 
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