Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah i bought some raceland coils overs I'll get better ones in the future but raceland does the job

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
That looks great, Thomas. How much of a drop is that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
435 Posts
It looks good. I was looking at raceland coilovers before but was scared to get them due to their price and reviews. Could you please let us know in a few months on how they are holding up, how the ride is after they settle and if you would recommend them or not. Past things I've seen on them are kinda old so maybe the build quality got better in them.

For myself I'm looking at the Godspeed Project coilovers or the Megan ones. The cheaper Godspeeds look to be Megan clones but their more expensive ones look awesome.

The car looks great and hope they work out for you. Please let us know of any issues that come up in case if others are interested in getting a set of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The ride quality isn't to bad, it's stiff now but it doesn't bother me but when you are no the high way going 80 and you got a little hole you will feel it . The only problem i had putting in the coilovers where the struts in the back. The bolt that holds the bottom of the rear strut got stuck on a rubber spacer and I had no idea how to take it out so it still sits on stock struts but the springs are easy accept for adjusting the height on the rears. There is barely enough room to put the wrench the and turn the ring to rise or lower the car. Sorry if the post was difficult to read. I kinda just went on a rant .

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
My daily driver is a lowered SHO, I have the H&R springs and as much as I like how it looks, I've been tempted multiple times to return it to stock, hate the bumpy ride... but then I change my mind when I park, get out of it and see it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
They did, if memory serves, from '89 to '95 inclusive. Funny... it used a Mazda designed and built but Ford branded MTX-IV transaxle. Mega similarities with our current generation 6mt (C66M-R); you can see the familial lines 🙂 . And incidentally Ford's cast iron block V6 (Vulcan block) used Yamaha designed and produced DOHC 4 valve aluminum cylinder heads with shim-over-bucket valve clearance compensation.

Last bit 'o trivia: that MTX-IV transaxle was also used with the (fairly rare) V6 Vulcan powered 5MT Tempo's and Topaz'. Same Mazda transaxle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
203 Posts
...but the springs are easy accept for adjusting the height on the rears. There is barely enough room to put the wrench the and turn the ring to rise or lower the car. Sorry if the post was difficult to read. I kinda just went on a rant .

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
The rears...I just remove the spring, its a bit of work, but way better than working with it in the car imo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
435 Posts
Plus at the drag strip, autos run more consistent times vs manuals. Less human error. The 3.5 EB is a kick ass engine. With the heavy ass cars such as the MKS, they run 13s all day long from the get go. Put a tune on it and easy 12s. I love the 3.5 EB!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Maybe it's just a problem with Grand Touring, but isn't the wheel well clearance so tight on standard that it won't clear chains?

Sadly my ATX 2007 is sitting in the back of the garage because that ATX is acting up. 227k so has been recommended to not rebuild. Called Aamco, they said they would call back, they didn't.

Anybody want it?

Looking at a Civic Type R if I can find it at MSRP (will need to pass California Smog). Shorter, good cargo room (but not the same), and a heck bunch more HP (and MTX only).
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
The bolt that holds the bottom of the rear strut got stuck on a rubber spacer and I had no idea how to take it out...
This may have happened with my lower rear control arm bolt. It unscrewed from the welded nut but wouldn't retract for amything. I tried threading another long bolt into it to help push it but no luck. The non threaded part of the bolt was so rusted I couldnt even press it out with the bolt that was screwed onto it. I had to cut it with a metal recripricating saw blade, hand held, because I couldn't get the car high enough to get the sawsall in. It took about an hour but I got it out. Something like this may have happened with yours.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
This may have happened with my lower rear control arm bolt. It unscrewed from the welded nut but wouldn't retract for amything. I tried threading another long bolt into it to help push it but no luck. The non threaded part of the bolt was so rusted I couldnt even press it out with the bolt that was screwed onto it. I had to cut it with a metal recripricating saw blade, hand held, because I couldn't get the car high enough to get the sawsall in. It took about an hour but I got it out. Something like this may have happened with yours.
I sure hope not I'm going to put some more Pb blaster and I'll try again this weekend


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
About this Discussion
21 Replies
11 Participants
DrFeelGood
Mazda 6 Forums
Mazda6club.com is a forum dedicated to the Mazda6 / Atenza. Come and discuss reliability, performance, modifications, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top