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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

I'm at 40k mi now . . . you all know me and I love my car, but this is going to sound like a troll post. I've got a laundry list of minor things that have accumulated over time . . . some I've already brought in, but it's just bothersome that this much stuff is off.

Some of the oddest are electrical, so I figured I'd post three of them to see what you guys have seen as well. I'm 100% certain nothing's been damaged by any installs I did, nor has the question even come up at the dealership.

Recent:
Driver's side mirror is still heated, BSM works, but doesn't dim.

Sporadic:
The auto up/down windows 'forget' the programing -- they take a programming okay once I notice it, but nothing else messes up at the same time.

Always had this problem:
Occupancy sensor has some BS logic in it. Manual says passenger 60lb or above won't disable airbag & pretensioner . . . wife keeps getting the light on, regardless how she's sitting (she's 90lbs, but I can slowly load stuff onto her lap and it won't trigger). Dealership has looked at it twice and it works fine (even tests fine with her in it).

The dealerships have bankers hours where I am, and their shuttles take about 45 minutes to take you 8 miles. They gave me a 'pass' on a wind noise in the rear the last time I went in, so I'm not enthusiastic about it, especially since I've got $100 per-incident deductible now :(

Anyone else?
 

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I have a 1st Gen, but my Lady friend gets the "Passenger Airbag Off" light and she also weights about 90lbs... I've never tried loading her lap full of crap though....
However, when the seat is empty, the light remains off... Seems fishy to me as well...
 

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#1 could be just a loose connection.

And yeah, the logic with the passenger sensor can be a little off at times as well. I've had equipment on my passenger seat that's had the light both on and off (on the same day as well). Passengers have not had any issue though...
 

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AS far as the side mirror it's my understanding that the ring of glass around the edge is where the sensor picks up the light (or something like that) and that you should'nt use anit-fog/rain X stuff on them so I'm wondering if you used anything like that or if there is something along the edge of the mirror (chip, scratch etc) that maybe impacting the dimming performance. IMHO I don't think these are the best at dimming (thought the outside mirrors are much better than the rearview) . I had an accident recently & the battery was disconnected to do the work so all my memory stuff was lost including the auto up /down feature. Dealer reprogrammed everything but that. Maybe your battery is getting weak and/or you have a connection issue. I don't have any thoughts on the other items.
 

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AS far as the side mirror it's my understanding that the ring of glass around the edge is where the sensor picks up the light (or something like that) and that you should'nt use anit-fog/rain X stuff on them so I'm wondering if you used anything like that or if there is something along the edge of the mirror (chip, scratch etc) that maybe impacting the dimming performance.
IIRC, the sensor that controls the dimming is centrally located on the interior rear-view, and it controls both that and the side mirrors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The sensor is in the interior mirror; an LED flashlight makes the other two go straight to black. Why would it go out after 38k with a loose connector Ghost?

The seat sensor actually is in two places, under the seat (makes sense) and somewhere in the back (wtf?). After 20lbs, it 'turns on' the occupancy logic. Until it thinks that someone heavy enough is in the seat, it disables the seatbelt pretensioner (fine) and the airbag (not good if the person is 5ft and above 70lbs).

I have a avic in the dash and if the power was getting lost, I'd have a problem with that.

Most of it doesn't bother me, but when I sell it, I plan on getting 'certified used' for it, just based on the fact that GTi with M/T is going to be really rare, and the stereo/nav upgrades were VERY well done . . .
 

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Why would it go out after 38k with a loose connector Ghost?.
I can safely guess that the wires that control the mirror functions are in a harness, with a different wire for the BSM, the heater, and the dimmer. It could be a loose connection, especially since you're in a colder climate like I am, things can go just like that.

I'm just trying to give you some suggestions, and saying that I'd try that possibility before anything else...
 

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The new 6 did have some issues with wiring harnesses...

I can safely guess that the wires that control the mirror functions are in a harness, with a different wire for the BSM, the heater, and the dimmer. It could be a loose connection, especially since you're in a colder climate like I am, things can go just like that.

I'm just trying to give you some suggestions, and saying that I'd try that possibility before anything else...
A friend of mine has a 2009 6i sport and had some really funky stuff going on with the immobilzer, keyless entry, steering wheel controls and auto windows. Turned out to be a bad wiring harness. So if all those items share the same harness then it's completely feasible, as GreyGhost states, that the harness is faulty. I believe there is either a TSB On it or it's a very well known issue. I know my dealer knew exactly what my friends problem was the minute I described it. BTW the fact that you replaced your head unit with a new AVIC is a good place to start since I believe that particular harness is routed through the head unit. Maybe something got damaged when you installed the new head unit? FWIW just because the AVIC is getting power doesn't mean that the issue isn't in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
#1 could be just a loose connection.

And yeah, the logic with the passenger sensor can be a little off at times as well. I've had equipment on my passenger seat that's had the light both on and off (on the same day as well). Passengers have not had any issue though...
You were spot-on here. Driver's side door-connector/grommet had to be the culprit for the mirror AND the windows forgetting the auto windows.

Went back to the dealer today --- they tried to be nice . . . no love for the tranny OR the wind noise (wtf? My MOM and my WIFE heard it . . .). They re-calibrated my seat sensor (for the third time) and took $112 of my hard-earned money.

I'm not dazzled with Mazda support . . . ranting and raving to the wife about an SHO -- I'd prefer an MKS eco-boost, but at $10k extra, I'll work her for the Taurus.

-Ernie
 

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Unfortunately

You were spot-on here. Driver's side door-connector/grommet had to be the culprit for the mirror AND the windows forgetting the auto windows.

Went back to the dealer today --- they tried to be nice . . . no love for the tranny OR the wind noise (wtf? My MOM and my WIFE heard it . . .). They re-calibrated my seat sensor (for the third time) and took $112 of my hard-earned money.

I'm not dazzled with Mazda support . . . ranting and raving to the wife about an SHO -- I'd prefer an MKS eco-boost, but at $10k extra, I'll work her for the Taurus.

-Ernie
Dealer support varies across the country. I think this is the single most challenging issue for car owners. Although the cars are well designed and built, complex mechanical products, like cars, will always have issues. To solve those issues quickly and effectively you need a competent dealership. I've been extremely lucky to have an excellent dealer. That said, crappy dealer service isn't restricted to Mazda. My wife used to drive a Honda Pilot and I'll tell ya the Honda dealer was piss poor which made solving the multiple issues (about one every month) we had with the Pilot a nightmare while we owned it.
 

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Knock on wood . . . my 09 6i GT has been great. Pushing 34,000 miles in about 1.5 years.

The lumbar support dial broke and was replaced under warranty and they gave me some free clips for the front bumper cover . . .

The keyless entry has a brain fart time and again but it usually only happens when I walk away with the fob in my pocket and the engine running. Once or twice I had to relock and then reopen to get it to work.

Not burning oil. Haven't noticed any other electrical gremlins. Sirius cuts out here and there but never for more than a few seconds. XM in my Honda did that, too.

The brakes are making a clicking noise in reverse but I don't consider that abnormal. Others car have done it but it seems to be louder on the 6. I have some brake grease that I've been meaning to put behind the pads which I'm sure will quiet it but haven't gotten around to it yet.

My 08 Honda had miserable brake issues, flickering heads (both items were called out in class action suits), an interior that rattled like marbles in a coffee can, and a third gear issue that occasionally popped it out of gear and typically made it cRuNcH horribly in the mornings. And the lack of sound deadening made my ears rings after a few hours of driving.

By contrast, I consider my 6 to be just about perfect. I hope it continues ...
 

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Here are some issues I've experienced with my 6s after 3 1/2 years and 21K: (most occured after warranty period was over)
-Lumbar support broke (like many other posters)
-Auto Up/Down for Passenger window not working (not a programming issue) This was working before I took the car in for Lock Request Switch recall (coincidence?)
-Rear Right passenger window can't be controlled by driver's side switch, but works with Rear Passenger switch. This was working before I took the car in for Lock Request Switch recall (coincidence?)
-Fan makes a humming sound when on full blast and A/C on (I've replaced the cabin filter)
-Fan makes a "whistle" sound when on low and car is warming up. It is related to the fan, because it stops when I turn the blower fan off
- 2 recalls: spider and lock request switch
-lots of rattles and squeaks, some which were resolved and others I've learned to live with.

I have very little confidence in my local Mazda service, as they have made about as many mistakes as corrections when I brought the vehicle in for service.

Those issues notwithstanding, the 6 s GT is still fun and enjoyable to drive. However, having owned 4 Hondas prior to purchasing a Mazda, I think I'll replace our current Pilot with a CR-V rather than a CX-5. The last CR-V I owned had only one issue in the 10 years I owned it. The repair was less than $200.

Cheers!
 
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