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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Soo, I’ve had my Mazda 6 2013 2.2D SkyActive for about 6 months and racked up about 19k miles. The car has today hit 100k miles.

started having issues a few months back but now it’s getting worse. Engine starts fine and idles ok if it’s cold it does idle high but I’ve been told that’s normal ?

when I’m driving I get a lot of delay for acceleration and when the engine reaches about about 2k rpm a lot of stuttering and rocking, this happens in pretty much all gears after 2nd.

Last night I decided to try and push the engine to see if I could get it hot and force a DPF regen and what I noticed is that at around 85mph the car would not go and faster and with the pedal to the floor I actually started loosing speed but when I lifted my food and put it back down it would speed up again to 85. After a few attempts at this it then exceeded 85 and seemed to be normal

I should add I’m not a maniac on the road and do not drive excessively fast this was all done on a private road

my plan for this weekend is to do the below;

Change the fuel filter
Clean map sensor
Clean maf sensor
Clean throttle body
Change air filter and cabin filter
(Oil and oil filter was changed about a month or so back)

is the throttle body easy to remove and clean and where exactly is it on this gen ?
(I have very little mechanic knowledge but do have a interest and think the best way to learn is to do)

will the above solve the issue ? Has anybody got any ideas to what else could cause these issues ?

Thanks in advance

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I have the exact same issues with Mazda 6 2.2 diesel skyactiv 2014. I noticed about a year ago I was starting to lose power, accelerating wasn't the same. Then gradually the problem got worse... Stuttering when hard accelerating, would not accelerate more than 2.5k RPM, ESP on and off, check engine on and off with MAF sensor as main error. Then DPF light on and off. Eventually it started to completely lose acceleration, I had to stop and restart the engine on the motorway a few times.
Now I took the car to 5 different garages, and had 5 different answers:
Local Garage - go see a diesel specialist, we don't know
Diesel specialist - go see Mazda, we have no clue everything is running fine yet it doesn't drive well.
3rd Garage - could be the injectors
4th Garage - could be the turbo
Mazda garage - carbon build up on intake system but we are not sure - have to strip down engine and investigate.
Pointless to say this investigation is costing over 1 grand.
After running so many diagnostics, there is nothing to point out a fault:
DPF- no issues
Filters - all new
Exhaust shaft - no issues
Drive shafts - no issues
Injectors - no issues
Oil temp - no issues
Pressure - no issues
MAF sensor - no issues (but comes up on check engine).
Anyways, this car is a headache now, will pay more then it's value back to Mazda garage and hope to see it running again 😩

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Check your MAP sensor (left hand side of the air manifold, slightly underneath. This measures Absolute pressure , not gauge or atmospheric, you have an atmospheric pressure sensor, think of a barometer that does the same thing) if its full of carbon , then there is a good chance the manifold could be as well. You can clean the MAP sensor using brake cleaner or brushing on rich soapy water every now and then as soap dissolves carbon. Then try your test drive see if there is any change.
You could also remove the plug from your MAF thats in your air intake just after your air filter. Run the car on your 'private road' again and see if the problem goes away, you will get a light come up on the dash , but will reset itself after replugging. If the problem goes away on a spirited run it could well be the MAF ( Mass Air Flow - which calculates the quantity of air flowing, its temperature as density comes into it, feeds it back to the ECU which then decides how much fuel can be injected for that volume of air, so you don't get black smoke by overfuelling and maintains the stoichiometric ratio).
The sensor shouldn't become dirty if the airfilter is doing its job, but they do fail and most Mazda sensors start at £100+, but can be had for less, try Bosch (or possibly Siemens I think), but don't buy chinese knock off's even if cheap.
If you have printouts detailing service history like invoices, rather than stamps in books etc, check when the last time the fuel filter was changed. They are quite pricey and its often best to buy a Mazda one then you know its the right spec, fuel pump and injector replacement due to a cheap filter is not what you want.
If you are going to replace the filter and the car is like the 2014 ( think it is) then you need to remove the battery, the air filter cover and tube. Remove the fuel pipes connections the electrical connection and the bracket holding the filter from the car. Much easier to deal with off the car than in-situ. Before unscrewing the filter , clean everything up so its spotless,tip any fuel out, then unscrew the filter, there is also a drain to remove that has to be fitted on the new filter, may have to be done first before removing filter.
Take your time and use the correct tools, not adjustables, molegrips or any plumbers tools.
Once the filter is off, clean the housing face, oil with lube oil, just a bit on your finger. Add clean diesel to the new filter before refitting it to the housing(this will reduce the length of time you are cranking the engine). The filter has a fine thread, Don't force it or cross thread it. 😭
Clean the area around the filter location, battery box area while its out, grease threads on filter bracket studs, battery holding down rods, battery terminals. I use vaseline, it lasts for ages as you don't need much.
Refit filter assembly, pipes, electrical connection ( water sensor), battery ( leave holding down bolts until you have run the engine. Once engine is running (may take a few turns before it fires, but don't keep the starter motor turning if it doesn't fire. Stop and start again with a 15 second break or so as not to everheat the starter motor), feel round the back of the battery for fuel leaks (hence the cleaning of everthing) round the filter. Raymond on here had his filter changed by his dealer, it leaked because they hadn't tightenedit properly or cross threaded it, totally unacceptabe by a Authorised Mazda Dealer by 'mazda trained technicians', they have got to be joking.

Have an assistant rev the engine to make sure there are no leaks as you feel around it, smell your fingersor use a bit of clan unused rag or that blue paper or kitchen roll ( but don't let the wife catch you.
If you take things steady, take photographs as you go as an aide-de-memoir, you should do alright.
As a rule of thumb, grease all threads on anything you take adrift, make sure its clean when it goes back on the car. A lot of mechanics skip this , which is a sign of poor training. A few good ones are your wheel nuts, back of your wheel where it fits on the hub, the slider pins on the brake calipers ( you need brake grease for that in sachets, you don't need much though), towing hoooks and the threaded piece they fit in, make sure they are not rusted up, especially if you live by the sea or drive on salted roads. You can lather a lot of grease in those. Underbody steel scews you come across as you remove the undertrays.

There are a lot of U-tube videos on Mazda , check those out.
I have some images somewhere, perhaps on my pc, which I will have to upload here for you, may be a day or so.
There is one other cause and that is a rivet fell off one of the flaps on the turbo which stops it from opening and the larger turbine starting to give charge air.
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