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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the typical "hi everybody, i'm a noob and don't know how to use the search function so answer all these questions" thread..... Or is it?

Just picked up the GTR last weekend and already put about 8 hours into paint correction, prep and protection. It was quite unexpected how much residue the plastic wrap leaves and also the quantity of grime from transit. This coming from somebody who apprenticed for 3 years in detailing and restoration of exotics and classics.

Had a Mazdaspeed3 and was a member of MazdasNW back in 2007 so i'm not new to Mazda. But that was sold to build up a 500+ whp Evo for short track duty. The itch for speed (and the NW Evo community) was wearing thin, so I got rid of it to get back into pre-1960's hot rods.

Feel free to ask about detailing chemicals used or suggestions if you're curious. Happy to dispense with getting you to buy nice car care products!

Mazda 6:


Minty fresh interior. A very rare color combination in the Northwest. 1 of 2 red on parchment GTR's sold in WA.


One of the project cars: 1963 Ford Thunderbird during motor swap:


The "better" T-bird, and my driver. 1961 numbers matching with a 390 I built by hand


Another project car, 1941 Super Deluxe with built flathead V8


Custom framed bicycle to match with the '63 Thunderbird


'53 Club Coupe and '67 Fairlane with a monsterous 7.2 ltr V8 putting out over 700 whp
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Reserved spot for dumping update pics as the Mazda 6 moves along. It has a date this weekend for clear bra and window tint.

Cleaned up!



In anticipation of the Swindlers poker run (a charity cruise of pre 60's cars), here's the pic from last year while driving the '41 Super Deluxe:




And waiting for a tow in the Bird. Made it 2,105 miles of a 2,215 mile journey before I couldn't get parts for further roadside repairs.
 

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So, are you into cars or something?

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So, are you into cars or something?

:)
Well, I also run a vehicle and art repair camp at Burning Man. So not just cars. Some of the other stuff i've worked on:

A horse: (12v golf cart chassis)


Rats: (1988 Civic RT4wd chassis)


A scarab:


Jousting trains


Welding staircases to second story dancing poles/platforms
 

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Welcome to the forum! I too recently picked up a 2018 Mazda6 GTR and also recently got into the detailing world of polishing and paint correction just a few months ago. It's addicting but our 16 Mustang is Race Red and the swirl marks were driving me crazy. I also had to polish the Mazda6 on delivery because of what I thought was sap on the hood - I bet it came from that plastic wrap that was on the hood to protect it during travel. I never thought of that.

So what are your go to tools for your detailing? We started out with an Adam's Swirl Killer random orbital polisher, Hexlogic polishing pads (from Chemical Guys I believe) with Meguiars Ultimate Polish. We were very happy with the results. Took about 8 hours for a full hand wash (2 bucket method), clay bar, and polish.
 

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Wow!

Welcome to the 6Club! It's always nice to see another enthusiast of older sheetmetal around here...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Welcome to the forum! I too recently picked up a 2018 Mazda6 GTR and also recently got into the detailing world of polishing and paint correction just a few months ago. It's addicting but our 16 Mustang is Race Red and the swirl marks were driving me crazy. I also had to polish the Mazda6 on delivery because of what I thought was sap on the hood - I bet it came from that plastic wrap that was on the hood to protect it during travel. I never thought of that.

So what are your go to tools for your detailing? We started out with an Adam's Swirl Killer random orbital polisher, Hexlogic polishing pads (from Chemical Guys I believe) with Meguiars Ultimate Polish. We were very happy with the results. Took about 8 hours for a full hand wash (2 bucket method), clay bar, and polish.
Welcome to both worlds! Sounds like you're already versed in cars, so detailing will be a different skill set indeed!

Having owned a boutique detailing business (side business, not primary source of income) the past 10 years or so, i've acquired a lot of products and equipment. Some of the tried and true equipment has been tested over my lifetime as a detailer.

Heck, back in '95 when I started apprenticing under a local legend, the tried and true towel of choice was having a hook-up with the cloth diaper companies and getting their cast-off towels. Those had been washed and sanitized so many times that they were also as soft as a babies bottom... Then microfiber came out, BOOM! A new world opened up.

I still use the tried and tru Porter Cable 7424XP that now has at least a thousand hours of run time on it, while you have the newer Rupes-style Adams orbital. That throw you have (21 mm) is HUGE! can definitely make a flat-panel correct in half the time. But you will have to be super careful of the edges of the pad hitting painted surfaces. The backing plat on pads (the loop side of Velcro) is very rigid laterally, so when you're using that orbital, the Velcro is essentially a cutting blade as it spins. If you aren't careful and the side of the pad makes contact with a painted surface, it is sure to very quickly cut through paint and primer!

Clay bar: Same thing as the baby diapers, clay bar has been the standard for decades. But these new "clay bar towels" they have now are insane. Especially if you have clear bra or decals on a car. Clay bar would push under them, lift them or destroy them. The new towels don't. Using a traditional clay bar would have taken me about 60 minutes to prep the M6 GTR when doing the prep last weekend. Instead with the clay bar towel I had the entire car clay bar step done within 30 minutes, and that was while talking to the neighbor who drove home his Porsche GT3 from the track. You can't beat cutting your detail time down by 50% in a single process!

autogeek.net/nanoskin-clay-towel

Paint correction polishes: Have seen a thousand of these things come and go, or updated. My first "miracle polish" was 3M Finess It III. It was superb for paints of it's day, and you could easily change it's cut and gloss characteristics through different pad choices. Now i've stopped buying new chemicals to try out the "new great thing" as, IMHO, you can't beat the Menzerna line of polishes. They are a serious player in paint correction polish and the quality of each and every bottle of product is unmatched. That they also supply German OEM's gives them a scale of production which is unmatched, even by Mothers. Their "Power Finish" (now called "MC2500") is ridiculously easy to apply, work time is superb, and it comes off with 1/10th the effort of most 3M or Mothers products. It's a serious compound for the beginner who can change it's cut through pad choices.

autogeek.net/menzerna-of-germany.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl_rd0uPl3QIVleNkCh2ZXwI8EAAYASAAEgJkIPD_BwE

Pads: Still on Lakes Country pads. They hit the quality vs. cost mark where I need them to be. Reliable and durable!

Waxes/sealant: I used Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant v3.0 on the Mazda. It has gloss and shine like you wouldn't believe! Protection is a meaty 4-6 months with excellent hydrophobic properties and strong UV protection. Super easy to apply and even easier to remove once cured. However, it must be kept dry for 24 hours after application as humidity at that time prevents the product from curing properly. Very difficult to find the perfect weekend to use this in the Pacific Northwest winters.
Summer details I will use Fuzion estate wax which is an amazing blend of natural carnauba and sealant. 3 coats of this at the start of summer and you've got something which will out-shine all the other cars at your events!

autogeek.net/wg5500

autogeek.net/wolfgang-fuzion-carnauba-polymer-car-wax
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Still trying to figure out how to upload pictures via phone. 30% window tint and fully wrapped front end with xpel clear bra.
 

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Car looks great.


Also love those lead sleds. Hope you hang around. Never hurts to have more "car guys" (and gals) on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thoughts on ceramic coating? Im getting it done on 16th but also considering PPF.
Personal opinion here, but I think that ceramic coating is a total rip off and worthless product. Yes, it has it's own hardness and is glossy. But that hardness is worthless when impacted by a rock or pretty much anything harder than light hail at speed.

You can absolutely get better results with sealants or waxes, and if you want to protect the paint from debris, then you're going to need clear bra as an actual barrier.

I think it's an appropriate choice for somebody who likes classic German cars. And by that I mean air-cooled, rear-engined classic German car. And by that I mean a Volkswagen Beetle with one plug wire missing. It's the people's car... assuming those people aren't in any hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lowered a friends '64 Ford Galaxie 500 last night using the tried and true "heat the spring with a rosebud until it collapses" method. Road testing followed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A buddy's ultra clean 1930 Model A came out for another friends wedding. It has the original L-head inline 4 in it. Must have taken him about 5 hours to make the drive to the wedding location!

Chopped 7" out of the roof, custom suspension, paint, wheels and interior. Still has the original manual brakes and "every day is arms day" steering rack in it.

 

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I hate to say it but that Model A hogs all of the attention and doesn't give your 6 anything for leftovers haha.
 
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