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How in the world does one get these out? I tried rust/bolt remover spray, to no avail.
I'm going to be forced to drill them out.
My question is, is this a dealer-only part or is the screw a more universal type item that could be had at Advance Auto?
 

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How in the world does one get these out?
I've had some luck with an impact screwdriver, but several of mine rounded out anyway. At that point, the best solution I've found is to drill and use a screw extractor.

Those screws only exist to hold the rotors in place during assembly before the calipers are installed. You can accomplish the same result by threading one lug nut all the way on the stud to hold the rotor stationary. Many people (myself included) never bother to replace those screws once they are damaged.
 

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I've never replaced those screws after I drilled them out the first time around. They are completely unnecessary.
 

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They serve the same purpose as the speed nut over one or more of the lugs on an a domestic car. To hold the rotor on while on the assembly line. Unlike the speed nut, the screws are made of case hardened Velveeta.

My Mazda's came out easily with a few good strikes on a impact screwdriver. I had already had to drill out a set on a Honda years ago and learned my lesson about just trying to remove them with a regular screwdriver.
 

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have to agree. impact driver is the tool to own for these. and if not. just drill them out. once you drill the head off. you can pull the rotor off. and usually there's still enough material to grab onto with a pair of vice grips. and then you can remove the remaining part.
 

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Impact wrench and these from Harbor Frieght 6 Piece 1/2" Screwdriver Bit Socket Set.
I just did the rear disc and it worked like a charm. I still hit the rotor with a large socket and then use the #3 Phillips and hit that a few times on the screw. I wish I did this when I did the fronts....had to drill the screws out.
 

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I agree completely with the impact screwdriver recommendation. I had rusted rotors on my Accord and had use a mix of crowbar and sledge hammer to loosen the rotors from the hub.
 

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I just did my front brake this past weekend due to warpped rotors. The two screws on the driver side gave in pretty quick with a impact driver but no luck on the passenger side. I drilled out the screw heads and just left the rest of the screws in the hub.
 

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i just redid my front brakes and drilled them out with a titanium drill bit and called the dealership. They told me not to worry about replacing them.
 

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I killed most of today trying to remove my front brakes and rotors. After giving up and reassembling things I found this thread.

Even with an impact driver I could not remove either rotor screw on my 2004 passenger side front wheel. I believe these screws were installed just to *screw* me. (Never managed to get to the driver's side wheel.)

In any case, I've got a couple of ignorant, naive questions:

1) So I've resigned myself to the need to drill these terrible screws out. I haven't drilled out stripped screws before. Is there anything special I should know, or may I just take my power drill and a drill bit and drill right down the middle of the screw? How large or small do I want the bit to be in proportion to the screw?

2) I'm mentally ill - I'll feel uncomfortable if I don't replace the screws. Does anyone here know just how easy or difficult it will be to find replacements?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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2) I'm mentally ill - I'll feel uncomfortable if I don't replace the screws. Does anyone here know just how easy or difficult it will be to find replacements?
Relax. I'm sure you can find a countersink head bolt at a hardware store.

If that is in fact a mental ailment, it's pretty common. Many Domestic car owners came in desperate need of the little flat speed nut they use to hold their rotors on the assembly line.
 
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