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Ok so this is what I have alpine head unit Ida x100, amps are a jbl for the highs about 100 watts an Orion 2400 watt mono block about 1300 at 1 ohm running a 12 inch re audio mx 12. I already have a 1 f.p.c, so should upgrade to 2? What do I need to do, when the bass hits it makes my headlights filcker and my amps ficker and the capacitor drops done to 12.7 volts. Help please
 

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QUOTE (ducket @ Feb 5 2010, 03:23 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635062
Ok so this is what I have alpine head unit Ida x100, amps are a jbl for the highs about 100 watts an Orion 2400 watt mono block about 1300 at 1 ohm running a 12 inch re audio mx 12. I already have a 1 f.p.c, so should upgrade to 2? What do I need to do, when the bass hits it makes my headlights filcker and my amps ficker and the capacitor drops done to 12.7 volts. Help please[/b]
Capacitors dont do anything for you. You have an energy crunch. You need either a bigger alternator, smaller stereo, or live with it. Adding more storage via a cap is not going to bring you joy. I am going to assume you have already upgraded "the big three" wires.
 

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QUOTE (ducket @ Feb 5 2010, 07:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635133
No what are the three big wires you be talkin about ? What size altenator would be an upgrade[/b]
Wire from alt to buss, wire from alt to battery, ground wire from battery to car. That is the usual suspects.
Not sure where or what is available for an alt. upgrade for your car.

As a guy suffering form tinnitus, I can't recommend any of it. Been there, done that, paid the price. (Continually)
 

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The alternators suck in our cars and I'm not sure if there is even an upgrade available. The Speed only runs around 13.6V when it is warmed up. Cold it wil pump out about 14.1 at best, but that doesn't last long. That sub amp is going to pull some serious amperage on huge hits so you're pretty much stuck with it. I doubt an extra battery or one of those mega caps, 25F or 50F, will do anything besides put more load on the alternator.
 

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Thanks there's got to be something. If my amps are cutting out my subs cutting out can't have that.
 

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QUOTE (ducket @ Feb 6 2010, 04:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635201
Thanks there's got to be something. If my amps are cutting out my subs cutting out can't have that.[/b]
Nothing. There is nothing you can do. With the program material I am assuming you are playing and the power you have, there is NOTHING you can do to prevent the car from dropping to battery voltage during the bass hits. I suggest you live with it.

If you spend enough money you can reduce the dimming, but you will never eliminate it. The cheapest start you can take is to upgrade the battery to something at as high an idle voltage as possible. Some optima varieties suggest their voltage at full charge approaches 13.7 volts. I'd start with one of those batteries or a similar varietal. Anything to boost the battery voltage above 12.4.

The cap is good but again, I am guessing your program material will render it moot. A split second after the bass note attack and the cap is drained and again you are at battery voltage.

Most keyboard commandos with no experience will repeat what other keyboard commands say and tell you to spend as much money on an alternator as possible. Surprise! With your power and (I'm assuming) your program material, the bass note attack will ALWAYS spike your current draw. Down to battery voltage. So I suggest it as #3, after a high voltage battery and low-ESR cap. It'll help reduce the issue.

In the end, spend as much as you want. The only guaranteed cure is to change the program material or lower the volume. But the above can help you "reduce" the effect.

Good Luck!
 

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I'm not sure what a keyboard commando constitutes, but I do have an engineering degree.
Voltage is a secondary consideration here. As I said in my first post, you have an energy shortage, and nothing is going to change that. Only so many watts in the input = only so many watts available (after all constraint loss/ efficiency takes its toll) available as an output.
Loud speakers as a rule are rarely more than a couple percent efficient. The largest gains to be had in an energy constrained system will be had with speaker alignment. If you are running a sealed sub, consider a ported one tuned correctly. That will allow more output for a given input and lower demands of total energy. The problem of course is that it will take up space. Hoffman's iron law always wins.
Anything to increase efficiency. Digital amps may help.
 

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QUOTE (Deadstick @ Feb 6 2010, 12:26 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635232
I'm not sure what a keyboard commando constitutes, but I do have an engineering degree.
Voltage is a secondary consideration here. As I said in my first post, you have an energy shortage, and nothing is going to change that. Only so many watts in the input = only so many watts available (after all constraint loss/ efficiency takes its toll) available as an output.
Loud speakers as a rule are rarely more than a couple percent efficient. The largest gains to be had in an energy constrained system will be had with speaker alignment. If you are running a sealed sub, consider a ported one tuned correctly. That will allow more output for a given input and lower demands of total energy. The problem of course is that it will take up space. Hoffman's iron law always wins.
Anything to increase efficiency. Digital amps may help.[/b]
I have ported box made to spec when I frist got the sub I had no problems with the lights I just got a new battery so maybe I need an altenator I have almost 70,000 on my 6 I don't know maybe I'm pissin in the wind
 

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QUOTE (Deadstick @ Feb 6 2010, 09:26 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635232
I'm not sure what a keyboard commando constitutes, but I do have an engineering degree.
Voltage is a secondary consideration here. As I said in my first post, you have an energy shortage, and nothing is going to change that. Only so many watts in the input = only so many watts available (after all constraint loss/ efficiency takes its toll) available as an output.[/b]
Thanks for the input. I can give you a few of my ideas on what constitutes a keyboard commando if you'd like :)

Shot in the dark here, your engineering degree isn't electrical engineering, is it. :laugh:
 

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QUOTE (Whiterabbit @ Feb 8 2010, 08:16 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635477
Thanks for the input. I can give you a few of my ideas on what constitutes a keyboard commando if you'd like :)

Shot in the dark here, your engineering degree isn't electrical engineering, is it. :laugh:[/b]
Um, actually I do have quite a bit of electrical behind me. What part of my response seems to invalidate that?
My comment on the "high voltage" battery? All lead acid batteries have the same, or very close idle or at rest voltage for a given state of charge. Some may show a higher voltage, but this is a surface charge, and under any load will continue to act like any other.
The debate about caps working is very long and tedious, and in the end most (including myself) think that they really don't have much saving grace.
For a great article on the crux of the matter, check this out:
http://www.k0bg.com/alternator.html
 

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QUOTE (Deadstick @ Feb 8 2010, 05:30 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635479
Um, actually I do have quite a bit of electrical behind me. What part of my response seems to invalidate that?[/b]
Completely ignoring the time factor in the program material of the music and the response time for any upgrade hardware.

And yes, ignoring the rest voltage of the battery. Definitely that.

Real quick, voltage is the PRIMARY consideration. Power is secondary. The flicker is a direct result of voltage changes. eliminate the voltage changes, eliminate the flicker. How do we do that? we can start to talk about some of the issues you've brought up. With a focus on their effect to the system voltage. Keeping a careful eye on reaction time.

It's all in the posts above :)
 

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QUOTE (Whiterabbit @ Feb 10 2010, 05:18 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1635912
Completely ignoring the time factor in the program material of the music and the response time for any upgrade hardware.

And yes, ignoring the rest voltage of the battery. Definitely that.

Real quick, voltage is the PRIMARY consideration. Power is secondary. The flicker is a direct result of voltage changes. eliminate the voltage changes, eliminate the flicker. How do we do that? we can start to talk about some of the issues you've brought up. With a focus on their effect to the system voltage. Keeping a careful eye on reaction time.

It's all in the posts above :)[/b]
Uhmmm. Power is the PRODUCT of voltage times current. We are talking maybe in circles about the same thing. Battery voltage of a lead acid battery can not be changed so easily (unless you add an extra cell - and no one is doing that). Reaction time? I am almost laughing here.
Assuming there is a decent battery to start with not much to be done with it. The flickering (we all agree) is a function of the voltage dropping, but is the differential between the battery and alternator. The if power system could withstand the draw, there would be no dropping of the voltage. Lets just for the sake of argument suppose you could get a 14 volt battery. How would it charge?
 
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