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Discussion Starter #1
woot!!! :drool:

pimpin out the audio for my car. i went all out and got just about everything.

2 Kicker Comp VRs, Kicker ported box, Kicker amp, Kicker 5x7 door speakers, RF capacitor, RF wire kit, Pioneer HU, and of course the Metra kit. still haven't decided if i am going to buy a small amp for the door speakers yet. so far that's quite a bit of money...so another $150 might hurt me.

i can't wait!! :love: it's going to be sweet.

i'm taking it in tomorrow morning and will post pictures after everything is done. just had to post this cause i'm so damn excited!!
 

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welcome to the club. i've got an 8" kicker solo s7 in a vented box. it hits like a pair of 12s. well worth the expense.
 

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you mean the Kicker club?
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yes. they are worth the investment. there are different type of boxes, vented & ported. ported is basically a tube of a certain length, cut to tune certain frequencies. vented involved creating a box inside a box with a path to free air. they are little more complex to build than ported but provide better results. i had a custom shop build my box & mounted the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
next couple of months are going to be my modding time...so hopefully my projects will be done by the time i go to the Texas summer meet. show it off a little!! :D

as for the system...it's nothing special like some of the show attending members on here, but it will work for me. just got done pulling the old system and detailing the hell out of the car. i should have taken pictures...but i'm going to wait until tomorrow when it's clean AND bangin!!
 

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yes. they are worth the investment. there are different type of boxes, vented & ported. ported is basically a tube of a certain length, cut to tune certain frequencies. vented involved creating a box inside a box with a path to free air. they are little more complex to build than ported but provide better results. i had a custom shop build my box & mounted the sub.
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Uhhhh, actually. vented and ported are the same thing. They utilize a specifically sized passage from the interior of the box to the outside air. ie a port/vent. I think you are thinking of a ported/vented vs a bandpass. Two entirely diffent things. A bandpass box is the second thing that you are explaining above. A bandpass does not nescesarily produce better results, so much as more output in the passband. Bandpass enclosures are often referred to as "one note wonders", and although they have their place, I personally would never consider using one in my car. The SQ of bandpass enclosures is sub par to what can be achieved with a sealed or properly designed ported/vented enclosure.

pololance6i, I don't want to rain on your parade, but as far as getting your system installed, I'm kinda dissapointed in you. You strike me as the type of person who can do a lot of things himself, and having a shop install your system seems like a cop-out to me.

As far as Kicker equipment, I can't say it's not good, because I guess it is at the very least loud, but I can say that you'd have been better off doing it yourself. That cap... is a total rip off, and the price you're paying for that equipment at retail is redonkulous. For what you are most likely paying, you could get a MUCH better set up. No doubt in my mind.
 

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wow... everyone praise how knowledgeable DAVE is.... praise him... hahaha.....
 

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Dave is right about ported/vented; they are the same. Bandpass boxes that sound good take a lot more effort to design and are usually gigantic, not like the crap-o ones you find in shops.

Kicker makes a decent set of subs, i used to use the compVR's, good SQ, good output, but not the best. They can be found for pretty cheap on ebay. Drop the cap (total waste of money for I'm guessing the amount of power you are running and your purposes) and get an amp to replace it.
 

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i can say from my experience that in the install world Ported refers to creating the tubes out of PVC/cardboard piping and Venting referes to creating the baffles out of MDF. i suppose technicalliy they are both Venting, but in my shop we used the terms to distingish between the two.

with ported boxes using PVC/cardboard, i.e. premade/homemade boxes there's typically vibration noise caused by the tubing, if MDF is used the vibration is lessened due to better construction. in either case the vent material must be cut to proper lenght to reproduce the desired frequencies. generally the tubes that come with pre-made boxes aren't long enough to reproduce the lower frequencies.

Bandpass involves creating chambers with piping/MPF & mounting the sub inside the chamber; bandpass is a good way to get bumps out of cheap subs. you'll get your cleanest sound out of a sealed enclosure, but deeper sounds out of vented due to the volume of air moved, and the fact that the box was tuned.

there's always free-air and sealed box.

the aftermarket industry makes it easy, the box builders & sub makers have a system of types. to do it easy, just match up subs & boxes by type. it takes some of the guess work out.
type I - small sealed enclosures
type II - medium sealed or vented
type III - large sealed or vented
type IV - medium volume bandpass
type V - large volume bandpass

it's also important to purchase the correct resistance subwoofer. subs typically come in SVC & DVC, and each voice coil has it's own resistance 2, 4, 8 Ohm, for example. you must wire up your subs to the amp to ensure maxium power without too little of a load. if the load is too high, ie. use too much resistance you lose out on power, too little resistance is use you'll through the amp into overlaod & possibly blow the amp.

there's nothing wrong with taking your work to a shop. http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=48644
 

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Discussion Starter #13
pololance6i, I don't want to rain on your parade, but as far as getting your system installed, I'm kinda dissapointed in you. You strike me as the type of person who can do a lot of things himself, and having a shop install your system seems like a cop-out to me.
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you're right, i could have done this myself...but i just wanted to drop it off while i am at work and forget about it. and you're right, i probably could have gotten something better and a little less. but with all the stuff i am getting, they have given me a pretty big discount. saying that, i'm sure they are still making quite a bit off of me.

so what would you have suggested, Dave? i know that's a broad question, but what could i have made better in this situation. and the only reason i am getting the capacitor is for my lights. i don't want them to dim when i am driving at night.
 

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so what would you have suggested, Dave? i know that's a broad question, but what could i have made better in this situation. and the only reason i am getting the capacitor is for my lights. i don't want them to dim when i am driving at night.
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A capacitor is not the cure to light dimming, it is a band-aid solution for a weak charging system, which actually results in less total output from your system. What you should do if you don't want light dimming is upgrade the big 3 (alternator to battery, battery to ground, and battery to engine ground) with the same guage or larger wire that you used for your amp's power lead. That should solve and dimming problems you might have. I do believe that there was recently a how-to thread posted for the 6i.

As far as the rest of it, I'd need a little bit more information, as far as what models you're getting and how much you're paying to make other suggestions.

Sounds like it'll probably be a little to late to bail at this point, and I don't doubt that you'll be satisfied with the outcome of the install. My suggestion if you are still planning on going ahead is to ditch the capacitor, save yourself the 100 or whatever dollars and upgrade the big 3. If after the system is in, you feel that you need it, it's always something that you can add later.

wow... everyone praise how knowledgeable DAVE is.... praise him... hahaha.....[/b]
You keep talkin' like that I'm not gonna hook you up with a hot setup Mr. Deerslayer.
 

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Here is that write-up I did for the 6i "Big 3" Upgrade...

http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?showtopic=47103&hl=

Should be easy enough, took me a while to find the locations because noone had posted a how-to for the 4cyl yet. And this is a whole lot cheaper than a cap. Also, I think I would go the route of getting a better battery after doing this, before I would get a cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
damn right!!

i went by during my lunch break to get a tool box for work and saw it nearly finished. the box is WAY bigger than what it looks like on the showroom floor. guy was just mosying around though, he had is buddy in there and was talking and smoking when i showed up. oh well...at least it's finished now.

pics tonight

BTW, i wrote the wrong HU. it's a Panasonic, not Pioneer. Pioneer is the first one i was looking at.
 

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here they are. this shit hits pretty hard...i'm extremely satisfied, except for the fact that my AC doesn't work. that is checked out tomorrow.

a little shakey in the picture taking, but that is the only one
it was because the bass is so loud!! :sarc:


Here's a close up of one of the subs. trust me, the other one is just like it :p


This is a freagin huge port, just thought i would share it with everyone


Here's the Kicker amplifier, it's a little bigger than i thought


Here's the Panasonic HU, it's display is blue, or really whatever color i want.


and THIS BAD BOY is my little toy. it's the don't mess with me little switch. that's the coolest part, i've never had one of these!! (i know, i'm a loser)


Let me know what everyone thinks.

BTW, look at those speaker wires, a little small, aren't they? i was disappointed. but i have some bigger gauge from the old system.
 
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