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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of times now, with the engine running and the key in my pocket, if either of the front doors close with force the red key light on the dash flashes and the car beeps a few times. The light continues to flash for a mile or two after this happens. If I turn the car off, the red key light changes back to green and the car will start normally.

Today when I went to start it, nothing happened. I didn't notice the key light so it must not have been red, but I pushed the button with the clutch all the way down and it didn't do anything. I pushed the button a couple more times, continuing to have the clutch all the way down, then suddenly the car started a few seconds after my last button push.

Is it possible the wireless receiver module has a loose connection? Anyone know where it is on a '14?
 

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Have you ever replaced the battery in your key fob?

From the owner's manual pg 7-32, here are the descriptions for the causes of a red flashing key warning light:

The key battery is dead.
Replace the key battery (page 6‑38).
--------
The key is not within the operation range.
The key is placed in areas inside the
cabin where it is difficult for the key to be
detected.

Bring the key into the operation range
(page 3‑8).
--------
A key from another manufacturer similar to
the key is in the operation range.

Take the key from another manufacturer
similar to the key out of the operation
range.
--------
Without the ignition switched off, the key is
taken out of the cabin, and then all the doors
are closed.

Bring the key back into the cabin.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Battery is fine. It can lock/unlock the doors from a long distance. I also don't know how the front doors being closed would cause the issue if the FOB battery was low.
 

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Got something (like a cell phone) plugged into the center console aux outlet?

If there's a reactive load on that outlet the very small parasitic current that's on it when the car is off can grossly confuse the start module. This is very easily reproduced on my car as I leave a cell charger plugged into there all the time -- if I plug in the PHONE and then hit the clutch I will either get a pulsating start light, no start light at all, the accessories might come on and off (e.g. radio, etc) or similar.

Don't plug the phone in before starting, no problem -- even with the charger plugged in. DO load it and there's trouble.

I thought I had an electrical gremlin in my car (very bad if it happens!) but as it turns out, nope -- it's interference from user-supplied electronics, and once I figured out what was going on it was easy to avoid the scenario that caused it.
 

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Got something (like a cell phone) plugged into the center console aux outlet?

If there's a reactive load on that outlet the very small parasitic current that's on it when the car is off can grossly confuse the start module. This is very easily reproduced on my car as I leave a cell charger plugged into there all the time -- if I plug in the PHONE and then hit the clutch I will either get a pulsating start light, no start light at all, the accessories might come on and off (e.g. radio, etc) or similar.

Don't plug the phone in before starting, no problem -- even with the charger plugged in. DO load it and there's trouble.

I thought I had an electrical gremlin in my car (very bad if it happens!) but as it turns out, nope -- it's interference from user-supplied electronics, and once I figured out what was going on it was easy to avoid the scenario that caused it.
Wow, that's a VERY specific and odd problem....Can't say I've ever tried starting the car with the phone plugged into AUX though....Something to test out on the ATX.
 

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Yep. Note that the forward acc socket is OFF when the ignition is off normally. The (tiny) amount of current available there due to what appears to be electronic switching of that socket is what causes it. The phone does not charge when the ignition is off, but if it's plugged in the freak-out of the start system happens 100% of the time. Unplug it, all is normal. Plug in the phone after starting the car or with the ignition on (that is, acc jack is powered), no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nothing plugged in anywhere. To rule out a key issue, I'm using my spare for a few days to see if the problem comes back.
 

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Being a new owner of a 2014 6 with the keyless (push button) start, I find it troubling that the doors will lock with the fob in the car. I have locked myself out of the car twice now. You would think the locks wouldn't lock with the fob inside. Have I missed something?
 

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It depends on WHERE in the car it is.

Mazda notes that the key may "not be recognized" if in the area of the cupholder. If you don't get the green light on the start button when you either hit the brake (ATX) or clutch (MTX) where the key is then the system does NOT know the key is in the car and yes, you CAN lock yourself out that way.

Further, if you MANUALLY hit the lock button (on the door) with the door CLOSED the system assumes you mean it. Consider this -- how else would you lock the car IF YOU'RE IN IT, the car is OFF and in Park?

I just tested this on my '15 Sport -- rolled the window down (obviously, just in case), put the key on the middle of the driver seat and verified that the ignition "saw" it. Then, with the door OPEN, manually hit the lock button and closed the door.

The car immediately unlocked the doors and beeped the horn at me (I like the second part of it as it warns you that the key is in the car!) -- so no lock-out.

BUT, if it can't "see" the fob you're going to get screwed.

One thing I find VERY annoying is that if the car is "on" (running, not running but on, or in ACCESSORY) the key fob buttons are disabled. I understand WHY it does that (having your trunk pop open while on the highway by accident would suck!) but there are times it's pissed me off if I leave someone IN the car with the radio on, for example, and then want to open the trunk to put something in it. This is one place my Jetta did it better -- the "trunk" button ENABLED the switch on the lid itself, but did NOT pop it. It was thus "safe" if it got activated and you were in the vehicle since it took a SECOND action to actually unlatch the lid.
 

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Being a new owner of a 2014 6 with the keyless (push button) start, I find it troubling that the doors will lock with the fob in the car. I have locked myself out of the car twice now. You would think the locks wouldn't lock with the fob inside. Have I missed something?
I usually have my fob thrown on the passenger seat. I'd say I've accidentally left the keys in the car...30 times? 29 times out of 30 it didn't lock. Thankfully the one time it did I was 5 minutes from my house and the spare key!

I'm now - finally - in the habit of only locking my car with the fob. No more door locking for me. Hence why the battery in my first fob died after 18 months. Sigh.
 

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Got something (like a cell phone) plugged into the center console aux outlet?

If there's a reactive load on that outlet the very small parasitic current that's on it when the car is off can grossly confuse the start module. This is very easily reproduced on my car as I leave a cell charger plugged into there all the time -- if I plug in the PHONE and then hit the clutch I will either get a pulsating start light, no start light at all, the accessories might come on and off (e.g. radio, etc) or similar.

Don't plug the phone in before starting, no problem -- even with the charger plugged in. DO load it and there's trouble.

I thought I had an electrical gremlin in my car (very bad if it happens!) but as it turns out, nope -- it's interference from user-supplied electronics, and once I figured out what was going on it was easy to avoid the scenario that caused it.
I was just having this issue and your fix worked immediately. Thank you so much.
 

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BTW try a different charger; it is often charger-specific because modern phone chargers all have DC-DC converters in them and they run at high frequency. If the harmonics from that thing interfere with the keyless start the car will not see the key.

Normally this wouldn't be a problem in a switched outlet since the outlet is off with the ignition off BUT modern "switched outlets", due to keyless ignition, aren't really switched as you think of the word "switch." That is, the voltage to them is controlled by a transistor, not a relay, and as such there's a small amount of leakage current and voltage available even when the car is OFF! What's worse is that DC-DC converters tend to act VERY BADLY when outside of their regulation band and while the RF interference level is very small in power terms so is the RF level produced by the key for start authentication, so it takes very little to screw it up.
 
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