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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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I was eyeing those FSB bushings too. Do you know if we'd have to pull the FSB to install the bushing or if we could just push them over the bar?
 

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Tru-Torsion.125 Adjustable Front Sway Bar [SKY-FSB] - $190.00 : James Barone Racing, Aftermarket Performance

I still think I'm going to try just the stiffer front sway bar bushing for the stock mounts first, along with the upgraded rear bar.

Replacement Sway Bar Bushings 7/8 (Pair) [SBBUSHINGS-78] - $25.00 : James Barone Racing, Aftermarket Performance

But at least there is now a front and rear sway bar set for our car.
If I'm understanding you correctly, you are just going to get the front bushing but use the stock bushing in the rear and upgrade the rear bar. I was thinking about the JBR set up but didn't know if the bushings with the upgraded bar would be too much.
 

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If I'm understanding you correctly, you are just going to get the front bushing but use the stock bushing in the rear and upgrade the rear bar. I was thinking about the JBR set up but didn't know if the bushings with the upgraded bar would be too much.
The stock bushings won't fit with the JBR bar -- it's a much larger diameter. You'll need to get the billet bushings to hold that thing in place. It tears out the sheet metal ones.
 

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The stock bushings won't fit with the JBR bar -- it's a much larger diameter. You'll need to get the billet bushings to hold that thing in place. It tears out the sheet metal ones.
So, the total price for just the rear set up is really $310 correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yes I intend to use the aftermarket rear bar and the billet bushings in the rear, with just the upgraded bushings and the stock bar up front.

The corksport kit is cheaper than the JBR for this reason that it includes the billet bushings in the rear sway bar price. I got it even cheaper still since somebody was selling it on the forum. The downside to the corksport bar is you need to make it work if the holes are too large (JBweld and saran wrap) and the bar contacts the fuel subsystem (only use the lesser setting).

I also intend to use the corksport springs (which I also got on the forum for cheap) and the Koni FSD shocks ($800 yikes!). I figure I can get away with the FSD's and the corksport springs, because the koni FSDs work the same regardless of ride height, and the corksport springs are just 7% stiffer than stock, while my car and unsprung weight will be at least 7% lighter than stock, so it should all work together nicely.

Last but not least I will fill the holes in the front trailing arm bushings with urethane to get rid of the front end jiggle. I'm deabting doing the same to the engine torque mount, but it might not be durable to do there. I should just get the aftermarket JBR unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was eyeing those FSB bushings too. Do you know if we'd have to pull the FSB to install the bushing or if we could just push them over the bar?
If the bushings aren't split already I'll make them split so I can take them straight off. Access looks pretty good since I can actually see them looking down from the top of the engine bay.
 

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New member here. I ordered the JBR FSB in August and the directions are crap. Spent 4-5 hours trying to get the sub-frame to drop using his directions and not common sense (my bad!). Needed my car that evening so I buttoned everything back up. Thought about trying it again and decided to try to get my money back. No dice. Emailed Jamie and tried to show him where his directions were off (4 bolts per side, not 3). He sent me the RSB directions. After a couple of email exchanges I asked him to highlight the bolts that need to be removed. He highlighted the same ones as in his directions (which I followed to the letter). I'll try to post the bolts to be removed once I figure out this site. My pdf with the highlighted bolts seems to be too large. Once I get the bar in I'll post my notes.

one of my email exchanges.
Me: Thanks for the reply. The directions in the link you sent were for the rear bar though. I had issues installing the front sway bar. As I stated earlier I followed the instructions on your website to the letter.


Per the instructions on your website:



"7. Support the sub-frame using a jack or jack pole and remove the 3 bolts on either side that secure the sub-frame to the chassis using a 17mm and 19mm socket. Then lower the sub-frame until it hangs with no support."



Can you clarify exactly what bolts need to be removed? This seems to be the critical step and the picture is fuzzy (and doesn't even appear to be the same underside as in the other pictures). I removed the 3 bolts which you can see in your step #9 (Bolt 1 (top pix), and then bolts 2&3 (2 pix down) and nothing dropped. It seemed that the sub-frame is connected here (3rd pix, lower left) as well.









If you can clarify or help me figure out what I did wrong I will try again.

Jamie :There are six, three on each side that need to be completely removed in order to lower the sub-frame enough to get the bar out. I have circled them.


 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I think I've got a dirty trick up my sleeve to modify the stock sway bar to increase the stiffness by about 30 percent plus whatever the stiffer bushings give...if it works it will be easier than dropping the front subframe and will be basically free. I may not get around to it until early spring, but I'll post about what needs to be done if somebody else can figure out how.

Update: Here is what needs to be done: Drill new holes further up the bar as indicated in the attached photo with a red dot. If you look at the second photo which per JBR shows the different holes that give 33 and 53 percent increases in stiffness over stock. So over that short pitch, less than 2 diameters center to center, can give 20 percent increase in stiffness, then drilling new holes in the factory bar 2 full diameters center to center will giev about a 30 percent increase in stiffness. the bar does begin curving slightly, but some tapered washers whether made or purchased should level things out.

I think all that has to be done is to disconnect the bar from the tie rods and rotate it to max up while the car is in the air on jacks and the front wheels are removed to get a straight on shot for drilling. Possibly the brake rotors would need to be removed. I don't know since I haven't tried it yet. I'll try once I order the new polyurethane bushings.

If anybody tries it and has success let us know.
 

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Wait, am I reading this right? You need to DROP your entire front subframe to install a front sway bar?
You have to do it for the RSB too. Loosen one side to drop it about an inch, remove the nuts on the other side and pry it down to get enough space to slide the RSB in there. It's a bear.
 

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When I installed my Corksport RSB, I just squeezed my hands back there to tighten it down. Although in hindsight, that's obviously the wrong way to do it. I had to re-torque it a month later after it started clunking.
 

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Since the JBR RSB is straight and not curved like the Corksport, you can't physically maneuver it in place without lowering the subframe a little. I fought with it for a good hour until I decided to follow the JBR instructions.
 

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@Donkey Grundle I know this is an old thread, but I recently drilled a hole in my FSB and LOVE IT!
(I did it at the same time as installing Coilovers and Progress RSB on full stiff.)
The car drives amazing, I've heard from friends that having the RSB on full stiff will make it snap oversteer, but with the 20-30% stiffer FSB (new mount point shortening the lever) it is not a problem. If I really try to flick the car I can get the back end to break loose but only for a moment as the FSB settles it down.
20200801_093251.jpg 20200802_103048.jpg
 
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@Donkey Grundle I know this is an old thread, but I recently drilled a hole in my FSB and LOVE IT!
(I did it at the same time as installing Coilovers and Progress RSB on full stiff.)
The car drives amazing, I've heard from friends that having the RSB on full stiff will make it snap oversteer, but with the 20-30% stiffer FSB (new mount point shortening the lever) it is not a problem. If I really try to flick the car I can get the back end to break loose but only for a moment as the FSB settles it down.
View attachment 241105 View attachment 241106
Interesting, I wouldn't have thought to drill the OEM bar...good thinking!
 
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