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Discussion Starter #1
I am Port Matching As much as I can on my 2.3L 6i. I started with my OEM Throttle Body and am thermoplastically building a CAI using most of the stock skeletons of the Air Box and Resonator. On the TB, I cleaned up some bevels and gave em a very smooth transition. I also cleaned up the outside a bit, and have a little areas that need some detail, but overall it's looking good; however I just noticed the TB's (IN) (Airbox to TB) has an inner diameter of 66.675 mm, and my (OUT) (TB to Intake Manifold) is currently at an inner diameter of 61.925mm... Not sure how even I am going to be able to match the inlet with outlet, but I am hoping for the BEST...

At any rate, I am in search for a decent Intake Manifold and am wondering if this will work?

. Almost ready for Ceramic Coating.Mazda 3 MZR Ford Focus Duratec 2 0 2 3 Engine Cast Aluminum Intake Manifold | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for your response, YEAH, It would be nice to know.
Going to touch my Photobucket for the 1st time in 5 years and try to post a pic, but I did a little more boring on my TB.

TB's (INLET) (Airbox to TB) has an inner diameter of 66.675 mm
My (OUTLET) (TB to Intake Manifold) now has an inner diameter of 65.0875mm.

My ducts are to be 50.8mm (except for my resonator/scoop mod duct which I am replacing) all the way to the TB, so I think I am fine where I am at.
 

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most of anything floating around is based somewhat off the old Cosworth manifold from back in the day. So it should be last on the list when other supporting mods have been exhausted.

It does sound pretty interesting when you floor it (if similar to Cosworth), and didn't really "hurt" the powerband too much, but not much of a help until almost 6k. so cams (and tuning) would be nice with this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am a newbie to these kinds of mods in general, so I appreciate very much the help and feedback. My attempt is to do something that would benefit in the low, mid and high rpm's, not just with HP, but with torque.

I am told that the Japanese (Mazda) and American (Ford) joint effort in creating these cars, left very little room, for any kind of needed port-matching. I don't know if what he told me was BS, and I hardly know the guy, so it is kind of hard to decipher. What kind of convinced me that he might of not been blowing smoke, was when he said that the Intake Manifolds are plastic, and have hardly any casting marks or pigments in the surface, most of the stuff is smooth, and therefore not much work needed. Of course, the guy I heard this from is a machinist, and doesn't work plastic, so maybe he is un-aware of some improvements that could be made. I am working on the CAI still, will be Epoxy coating my Throttle Body this week, and I have an extra Intake Manifold that I would like to take a closer look at. When I am done with this, I will move onto the head and block.

Starting a thread now, regarding Super-Coolant.

Also, would like to have a custom exhaust built. I don't want a noisy car. I just want something that will go well with the above work I mentioned, in addition to the timing mod, and header mod. I want something quiet like a ferrari, bugatti or lambo, etc... Not looking to have a car that requires wearing and providing hearing protection, or that can get me into some shit with the noise ordinances in my county. I want to be able to start my car at any hour of the night and drive off, and not wake up everyone in a city block radius. I met a guy who works with Magnaflow and Flowmaster, are these any good? What kind of setup should I be looking for?
 

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They thing with low end on this car is the VLIM system works pretty well, to the point where i noticed i lost some tq when i removed it and the VTCS. it's tough as the ecu controls when it's used based on temp and rpm, so it's not always the same, but there aren't any intake mani options that will improve on that....only for higher rpm which is how most 4banger mani's are designed.

Thought it's been a while since i've looked at anything new, the exhaust doesn't do squat other than sound and weight. so it's all your preference. best bang for your buck in my opinion is have a shop weld up a back half single muffler to replace the y and dual muffler setup. saves a good 23-28lbs depending on the muffler you get, plus get whatever sound you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Unless you are building a drag car, boosting your car or just want engine bling I would not buy an after market intake mani. They have very high flow. Good for high end power but bad for low end torque and power.
Well, I bought my car in May of 05, after 3k miles I had problems with the plastic lock on the MTX cables. This would happen about every 3,000-4,000 miles.
After a few more incidents with the same part, the dealership wouldn't honor my warranty; stating, that "they couldn't duplicate the problem", which was BS, because I provided them with a video recording of the problem, BUT, they would just give me the run around.

Eventually @ 15,000 miles, my MTX gave out; I contacted Mazda Corporate, and they said it's not their problem, and told me to take it up with the "private dealer" who sold me the car. The private dealer would report back to "Mazda Corporate". I returned to the dealer only to have the "Service Manager" call the cops on me after he filed a "False Police Report". The Better Business Bureau wiped their ass with my complaints and did nothing. Eventually, Mazda Corporate, authorized a service repair for the car at a different dealership, and they replaced the MTX. At 47k miles my ENGINE BLEW, again the dealership did not honor the warranty. I wound up finding another engine with 47k. miles on it, but it's crap, it's got horrible "lifter noise".

^^So, I have decided to open her up!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They thing with low end on this car is the VLIM system works pretty well, to the point where i noticed i lost some tq when i removed it and the VTCS. it's tough as the ecu controls when it's used based on temp and rpm, so it's not always the same, but there aren't any intake mani options that will improve on that....only for higher rpm which is how most 4banger mani's are designed.

Thought it's been a while since i've looked at anything new, the exhaust doesn't do squat other than sound and weight. so it's all your preference. best bang for your buck in my opinion is have a shop weld up a back half single muffler to replace the y and dual muffler setup. saves a good 23-28lbs depending on the muffler you get, plus get whatever sound you want.
Yeah man, I took a look at that VLIM and VTCS, but I don't know much about CR, Dynamic Power, pairing rod length with cranks, cams and pulleys, so I am trying to learn a bit. I wanted to go from 87.5mm bore to something like a 90, with a 12:1 kind of a deal. I looked at a few Engine Builder Books by "Dan Vickers" < or something to that effect) and even tried to download FREE Performance Engine Builder Software, but all I got was the ILLEST Malware and Spyware to date, with some of the most vicious extension files I have EVER seen, which makes detection and removal virtually impossible!
 
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