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I am trying to decide if i should use one sub @ 900wrms or two subs @900wrms combined. I'm tight on space in the trunk of the GTO and want know if i'd be happy with just 1 12" sub.
 

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Two subs will take up more room.

Two subs can be run in parallel to drive your amp harder.

Two subs will give you more volume of bass, in theory.

Two subs will sound different if you put them in seperate enclosures versus if you have them share the same airspace.

One 12" sub done right should sound great. If you'd be happy with that, well, only you know that answer.

*disclaimer: sound is very subjective. While I stated one 12" sub done right should sound great, you may not like it.
 

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one ported if u want almost as loud and save money and just a little bit of space(depending on the subs). 2 if you have the money. If sealed in the same space, it should sound the same as 2 in separate spaces(with equivalence to half the space for each). Ported is a different issue.
 

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I am trying to decide if i should use one sub @ 900wrms or two subs @900wrms combined. I'm tight on space in the trunk of the GTO and want know if i'd be happy with just 1 12" sub.
[/b]
It is very dependant on the equipment used, and the installation. I can say that I have one 12" sub in my car, and I am very satisfied with the bass. It's all in the application.
 

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just throwing in my 2cents... i've gone back and forth, 1 and 2 sub boxes. I really need the space (stroller and golf clubs) so the 1 sub is the current direction. Currently a (ole school) kicker sub in a sealed box. And with what i'm using it for (fill in with a little boom) it works great.... Now i know i with the 2 JLs i have, i could push it more and it could really make things shake but i guess i'm getting older :)nono:) and don't need my 3 year old to be bumping. :hoho:

oh and to make it more confusing :)p), i had a buddy that had just 1 12 in a bandpass box it could be heard from long distances.... so like mentioned it really depends on application and what you are looking for sound wise.
 

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There is not a whole lot of diffrence running 2 lower quality subs vs 1 higher quality.

A friend of mine was using 2 10' JL W3's and he needed more truck space, so he sold the W3's and got a single 10" W7, powered by the same amp. IMO the W7 sounded better and it was a single. They cost roughly about the same as well.

But like everyone has said sound is subjective.
 

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well the W3s compared to the W7s are like apples and oranges. the W7 is the grandaddy of that line of JL. that's like comparing a RF Punch HE to a RF Punch HX2.

one of the pluses of 2 subs, like stated before, is you can draw more power out of your amp (bridge) in which you can't do with 1. if you're options are 2 900W RMS speakers vs. 1 900W RMS speaker of the same brand and what-not, go with the 2 of them for more bass. granted 1 sub is still going to sound good at 900W RMS.
 

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also 10s v 12s is just mainly size pref. not a big gap in sound depending on the quaility i guess, but i opted for two kickerVR 12s. this was in my previous car. i used to take one sub out, both ran in parallel at 2ohms and the bass was deeper than one 12.

when i eventually upgrade from the bose i think i'd go with a top of the line 10 at 2ohms, sealed. ( i like sealed ok :drool: )
 

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there's a big difference in sound between the 10s and 12s. ever played rock on your 12s? doesn't sound NEAR as good as it does with the 10s. 12s hit MUCH lower notes than 10s, where 10s have a better response. plus, 10s just don't hit the db's like 12s or even 15s do.

10s usually sound a lot crisper and cleaner because than 12s. don't get me wrong, some 12s have a very crisp sound to them, but they are meant for more power than 10s.
 

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there's a big difference in sound between the 10s and 12s. ever played rock on your 12s? doesn't sound NEAR as good as it does with the 10s. 12s hit MUCH lower notes than 10s, where 10s have a better response. plus, 10s just don't hit the db's like 12s or even 15s do.

10s usually sound a lot crisper and cleaner because than 12s. don't get me wrong, some 12s have a very crisp sound to them, but they are meant for more power than 10s.
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Myth. With the motors that most subwoofers use these days, cone size has a lot less of an effect on how "tight" or "fast" a subwoofer is. Rock sounds fantastic on my 12, better than it did with any of the 10's I ever ran or have ever hooked up. And any respectable subwoofer can play well into the infrasonic range in a car.
 

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Yes how it sounds is more dependent on the enclosure and all sizes can have similar response. However, larger woofers tend to play lower frequencies with more authority than smaller ones and vice versa (typically, with the same type of sub) and of course more spl with more cone area. Response has nothing to do with size.
 

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check out digital designs... they make absolutely incredible subs... thier 12" 3500d hits harder that any Rockford Power series sub and has more clarity that a W7... they are pretty low key, not a very high profile company, but man they make some sick subs.. your 900W amp would push a 3500d great.
with a good setup you could do SQL one day and SPL the next. thats how veratile digital designs subs are...

check it out: 3500d
 

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Adding a second speaker only adds 3db, doubling your amp power can only add 3db. Get one highly efficient D class amp and a long throw woofer with a high sensitivity to push the most air. Less space and lots of bass.

In order to produce sound at a specific volume, a speaker with a sensitivity rating 3 decibels greater than another requires half the power.

"If there are two sound sources in a room - for example a radio
producing an average sound level of 62.0 dB, and a television producing
a sound level of 73.0 dB - then the total sound level is a logarithmic
sum ie

Combined sound level = 10 x lg ( 10^(62/10) + 10^(73/10) )

= 73.3 dB

Note: for two different sounds, the combined level cannot be more than
3 dB above the higher of the two sound levels. However, if the sounds
are phase related there can be up to a 6dB increase in SPL. "

--from Berkeley website on acoustics

A 10db increase is considered doubling of loudness, a 3db increase is whats noticable to people.

Was that too technical? I'm even hung over, you should see me on a good day.
 

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I have 1 JL Audio 12W7 in a sealed box and it is tight and sounds great...not too boomy but really hard hitting...I would go with one and save the space, but make sure it is a quality subwoofer and is powered by a good amp.
 

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whatever you go with make sure that you put the sub into the correct type of box, i.e. correct volume, sealed vs. vented vs. bandpass. subs are designed to reproduce specific frequencies based on the type of enclosure. visit the manufactures websites for specs on what type/size enclosure to go with.
 

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What about single voice coil vs. dual voice coil?[/b]
Manufactures supply different voice coil configurations to allow flexibility in installation. With different parallel/series wiring schemes, it's able to get more output from your amplifier. For example, a Dual 4 ohm voice coil sub can be run at either 2 or 8 ohms; a dual 2 ohm sub can be run at 1 or 4 ohms.

If you had a mono amplifier, that puts out it's peak power at 1 ohm, but only wanted to run one subwoofer, you would get the dual 2 ohm subwoofer and run the coils in parallel to achieve 1 ohm. But if your amp was only 2 ohm stable, you would get the dual 4 and run it in parallel to get that load.

If you have 2 dual 2 ohm subwoofers that you are running off of a 2 ohm stable amp, you would run the two coils of each sub in series, and then parallel the subs for your 2 ohm load.

Like I said, It's all about flexibility. Doesn't have any effect on the sound of the sub, other than the ability to draw more current from your amp.


I would say that since the OP is starting from scratch in a new car, so long as quality components are used, there's no reason that you won't be happy with one 12 inch subwoofer.
 
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