You need to examine whether the bar is making contact with the 'spring cups' (lower control arms) when the rear suspension is unloaded. If there is contact, then the bar is probably upside down, and you had rubbing which is very bad.
Its very easy to orient the sway the wrong way because of the thickness....
The single slot implies the bracket works on a range of oem bolt spacing. That means it is likely the bushing will not be centered between the oem mount holes. If this offset is not matched at both brackets, the bar will go on tilted to one side, relative to the car frame, due to one pivot center being higher than the other. This preloads the suspension with some lean ... not good.
"How did it affect handling, under/over/turn-in/comfort?"
Sorry, I meant after adding the Progress bar to a stock suspension, not after flipping it.
I have the progress 24mm bar. I noticed that one end seemed a hair long, the drivers side seemed to bind a bit on the lower control arm mount, I had to leave the bar disconnected from the bushing mount to get it in, then after I had the link installed I could bolt it back up at the pivot bushings. It was barely off, but seemed just a little off.
As for #2 and #3 I didn't notice any problems but also didn't know to look for them, but nothing seemed particularly out of place. Been a couple weeks now and I have had no knocking or squeeking, just like stock as far as comfort and noise.
Oops I read the description on the RB bar wrong. My bad. Then why would anyone buy the Progress bar for more money than the RB when the RB is thicker? And appearantly having fitment issues..? Well I guess I don't really care because I'm making my own bar out of chrome-moly.
So I inherited a 2007 M6i 2.3l from my daughter. Im starting this project cold with almost zero knowledge of the car and its various problems. Among the issues is a complete loss of power steering. The PS pump is blown out leaking from somewhere (yet to be determined) and has been replaced once...
We own a Mazda 6 1st generation since 2004 that has 115.000 km on it.
As far as i can remember, my father was always saying that the car is pulling right, but nο one could fix it. After new tires on and fresh alignment the problem seems to be gone to some degree, but it comes back...
Help! I have an 06 with ABS and I just replaced my front pads and rotors and installed the ss brake lines and after bleeding them,(2 person method) my pedal travel is further than before and there’s a little sponginess in it too. Any idea what it might be causing this?
I have a 2006 GS sedan with a 5spd. I’m planning on upgrading my brake hoses to the SS lines soon. Since the car has ABS, can I bleed the brakes the regular way; one person cracking open the bleeders; another person pumping the pedal or do I need to use a high end scan tool to cycle the ABS pump?