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Discussion Starter #1
This past weekend to kill a little time in the garage after getting my airbag light issue sorted I began to install a pair of Mazda logo courtesy lights in the front doors of my 04 wagon.

Popped the cover off the driver’s door and pulled the lamp, plugged the logo light in its place and it lit up, but only for a couple of seconds before it flickered a few times then went out. I closed the door and when I opened it again I noticed that in addition to the courtesy light not coming on, my interior map lights didn’t come on either.

I closed the door & hit the lock on the remote; all the doors locked. I hit open once, driver’s door unlocked, hit it a second time, all doors unlocked...but none of my map lights came on; front or back seats.

I opened up the liftgate & the cargo area map light works fine. Sat in the car and manually hit each of the four individual map light buttons in the front and back seats and all four of them came on - not a fuse issue. Both front and back seat switches are set to ‘Door’, but none of those lights come on automatically when a door is open.

I removed the logo courtesy fixture and replaced the original lamp in the door; still no love. I put a meter on the courtesy light socket; zero volts.

Any ideas?
 

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I am about to order that thing and now I'm having second thoughts...

I'm willing to try this if it will fit to the 2018 model.
 

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Sounds like the door switch burned out. Maybe the new light drew too much current for the switch? I'd expect the fuse to blow before any switches would go if that was the case, but you said the map lights are working if you manually turn them on, so that definitely rules out the fuse like you said.

Not sure if it's too late now, but maybe pull the courtesy light and check for any burning smells inside the door panel. Is it possible the harness got tugged and came loose somewhere up near the door switch?

Do the lights come on at all when you open the rear doors? Those should have switches on each door, AFAIK, although if the circuit is open somewhere else maybe it doesn't matter what the state of the switch is on the rear doors.

To me, it sounds like a loose, pinched, or burned out wire or switch, which would beg the question of why a fuse didn't blow first.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sounds like the door switch burned out.

Not sure if it's too late now, but maybe pull the courtesy light and check for any burning smells inside the door panel. Is it possible the harness got tugged and came loose somewhere up near the door switch?

Do the lights come on at all when you open the rear doors? Those should have switches on each door, AFAIK, although if the circuit is open somewhere else maybe it doesn't matter what the state of the switch is on the rear doors.
I should have included in my initial post; the door ajar light on the dash still comes on when any of the four passenger doors are open & goes out when they're closed, so that tells me it's not a door switch either. The door switches are actually on the body side of the door openings, & they were not touched when I installed the new lights.

No lights come on when the rear doors are open, and there was no odd odor when I installed the logo light, nor when I swapped the original lamp back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am about to order that thing and now I'm having second thoughts...

I'm willing to try this if it will fit to the 2018 model.
Those are the ones. Probably not from the same source, however I'm sure they're all made in the same place.
 

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Sounds like the door switch burned out.

Not sure if it's too late now, but maybe pull the courtesy light and check for any burning smells inside the door panel. Is it possible the harness got tugged and came loose somewhere up near the door switch?

Do the lights come on at all when you open the rear doors? Those should have switches on each door, AFAIK, although if the circuit is open somewhere else maybe it doesn't matter what the state of the switch is on the rear doors.
I should have included in my initial post; the door ajar light on the dash still comes on when any of the four passenger doors are open & goes out when they're closed, so that tells me it's not a door switch either. The door switches are actually on the body side of the door openings, & they were not touched when I installed the new lights.

No lights come on when the rear doors are open, and there was no odd odor when I installed the logo light, nor when I swapped the original lamp back in.
The plot thickens!

Re: the switch, I was wondering if it was possible the harness got tugged on at all. I don’t know how much slack there is on it. Even if the switch is on the door frame, pulling on the harness it’s attached to could damage the terminal. If there’s plenty of slack in the harness, that seems unlikely to be the problem. I’d lean more toward a pinched wire or maybe a bent pin on the connector somewhere in that case.
 

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Here’s something you could try to see if it’s wiring related
I see you said you have a multi meter so try grounding it somewhere else (like directly to the battery) and see if you get power to the socket the do the same for the ground, connect the positive to a good source (again the battery would be ideal) and see if the ground is good on the socket this should at least help you narrow down possibilities.


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Discussion Starter #8
The plot thickens!

Re: the switch, I was wondering if it was possible the harness got tugged on at all. I don’t know how much slack there is on it. Even if the switch is on the door frame, pulling on the harness it’s attached to could damage the terminal. If there’s plenty of slack in the harness, that seems unlikely to be the problem. I’d lean more toward a pinched wire or maybe a bent pin on the connector somewhere in that case.
The lamp socket is a separate piece that clips fairly securely into the door panel and once taking the stock lens cover off, that’s all that was touched during the entire process; the wiring harness for the lamp was never disturbed and the door frame where the actual switch is was never touched at all.

The lamp socket is a very simple design of two pieces of copper - the bread in a lightbulb sandwich if you will, where the lamp base just slides between those two contacts and is pressure-fit to keep it in place.

To see if there is somehow any issue with the lamp socket wiring, I’ll need to pull the door skin off, though I can’t rwally see that being the issue as there was far less stress put on that harness swapping lamps than there is simply shutting the door.
 

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The plot thickens!

Re: the switch, I was wondering if it was possible the harness got tugged on at all. I don’t know how much slack there is on it. Even if the switch is on the door frame, pulling on the harness it’s attached to could damage the terminal. If there’s plenty of slack in the harness, that seems unlikely to be the problem. I’d lean more toward a pinched wire or maybe a bent pin on the connector somewhere in that case.
The lamp socket is a separate piece that clips fairly securely into the door panel and once taking the stock lens cover off, that’s all that was touched during the entire process; the wiring harness for the lamp was never disturbed and the door frame where the actual switch is was never touched at all.

The lamp socket is a very simple design of two pieces of copper - the bread in a lightbulb sandwich if you will, where the lamp base just slides between those two contacts and is pressure-fit to keep it in place.

To see if there is somehow any issue with the lamp socket wiring, I’ll need to pull the door skin off, though I can’t rwally see that being the issue as there was far less stress put on that harness swapping lamps than there is simply shutting the door.
In that case, I’m inclined to agree. Did you check if any pins in the socket/receptacle looked bent or otherwise damaged?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
In that case, I’m inclined to agree. Did you check if any pins in the socket/receptacle looked bent or otherwise damaged?
There really are no pins in the socket to speak of; it’s the same as a most of the interior lights where they’re just pushed in between the two copper contacts.

I’ll take the door skin off at some point over the next couple of days and confirm there’s nothing wrong with that.

Deeper digging has lead me to the possibility that there’s an issue with the ‘Door Lock Timer Unit’ one of the functions of which is the room light control (front and rear map lights and door courtesy lights). Of course it’s up behind the glove box somewhere and to get to it I’ll probably need the skinniness of a 9 year old girl, so I’m hopeful I find something else before I need to pull it out.
 

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In that case, I’m inclined to agree. Did you check if any pins in the socket/receptacle looked bent or otherwise damaged?
There really are no pins in the socket to speak of; it’s the same as a most of the interior lights where they’re just pushed in between the two copper contacts.

I’ll take the door skin off at some point over the next couple of days and confirm there’s nothing wrong with that.

Deeper digging has lead me to the possibility that there’s an issue with the ‘Door Lock Timer Unit’ one of the functions of which is the room light control (front and rear map lights and door courtesy lights). Of course it’s up behind the glove box somewhere and to get to it I’ll probably need the skinniness of a 9 year old girl, so I’m hopeful I find something else before I need to pull it out.
Yikes! Good luck!
 

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There really are no pins in the socket to speak of; it’s the same as a most of the interior lights where they’re just pushed in between the two copper contacts.

I’ll take the door skin off at some point over the next couple of days and confirm there’s nothing wrong with that.

Deeper digging has lead me to the possibility that there’s an issue with the ‘Door Lock Timer Unit’ one of the functions of which is the room light control (front and rear map lights and door courtesy lights). Of course it’s up behind the glove box somewhere and to get to it I’ll probably need the skinniness of a 9 year old girl, so I’m hopeful I find something else before I need to pull it out.

This was along my thinking as well. It has to be some kinf of low level electrical circuit that was molested. I feel awful because those came from me. I swear they did nothing of the sort, I stopped using them for the reasons I told you; I couldn't operate my wireless doos locks more than one click once the interior lights were illuminated (and that light was active)
I know @waughoo installed an aftermarket timer recently with additional circuitry that allowed him to have window control after the ignition circuit was opened. He may have some insight here as he is generally my go-to electro-wizard where this stuff is concerned.


I'll keep digging around.


Do your vanity lights and cigarette lighter still work?
 

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@DrFeelGood could I ask where you got them because depending on what this issue is when it gets sorted I think they would look good I had something similar on a car before but the ones I had then and the ones I have found now are “universal” and require a hole to be drilled in the door


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Discussion Starter #15
I regretfully concur that the light timer module is a possibility. The reasons being that the effect results in both the rear and the front illumination.
To clarify, that’s the door lock timer unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I feel awful because those came from me.

<snip>

Do your vanity lights and cigarette lighter still work?
No harm, no foul man. I didn’t name you because I fully appreciate that if there was a problem with them, you’d never have sent them to me; there was nothing to be gained by saying they were yours because it just wasn’t relevant.

In four days it’ll be 21 years since I quit smoking so I’m not sure if the lighter works (the 12v in the armrest does because that’s where I have my phone charger plugged in and I’ve used it multiple times since the light issue popped up, and I would think they’d be on the same circuit). I’ll double check in the morning and I’ll also check the vanity lights. I’ve only ever used that mirror once (to get out an eyelash that was blinding me in my right eye).
 

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I could be way off here because electrical is not always my strong suit but if the problem is related to a module is it possible that disconnecting it or the battery for a while could potentially “reset” something?


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@DrFeelGood could I ask where you got them because depending on what this issue is when it gets sorted I think they would look good I had something similar on a car before but the ones I had then and the ones I have found now are “universal” and require a hole to be drilled in the door


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They are the Laser Mazda Door Logo lights that sell all over ebay. I think I got mine from Aliexpress ~$7


In my car when the light was illuminated (interior lights on) I could not operated my wireless (key fob) consistently. I would always unlock the drivers door but I would have to wait for the lights to interior lights to dim out to lock the door with the fob. I was almost never able to double click to open all locks (which I need for the kids).


If it were just me it would be fine. One click to unlock the door and manually lock when leaving.
 

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They are the Laser Mazda Door Logo lights that sell all over ebay. I think I got mine from Aliexpress ~$7


In my car when the light was illuminated (interior lights on) I could not operated my wireless (key fob) consistently. I would always unlock the drivers door but I would have to wait for the lights to interior lights to dim out to lock the door with the fob. I was almost never able to double click to open all locks (which I need for the kids).


If it were just me it would be fine. One click to unlock the door and manually lock when leaving.


Thanks, I have not seen them on eBay just universal ones, guess I’ll look some more. I think I remember reading something about that problem before, it’s still tempting because my compustar remote start system will unlock all the doors at once if I use that fob.


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