[usernamerequired20]

I am looking at 6's (2015-present) and wanted to know if anyone has had any issues with their timing chains or tensioners going bad at relatively low mileage/age? I am ready to pull the trigger on getting a 6 but am worried that if a timing chain related issue were to happen in the future despite proper maintenance that the engine would be trashed?

Perhaps this is something relatively insignificant to worry about and I am just overthinking the what-if's of this car.

Additionally, considering most of the 6's I am looking at come standard with 19" wheels, are these more expensive to repair or similar to other slightly smaller sizes?

 

[Byakuya]

Welcome to the forum!

I've been on this forum for quite a long time and very very rarely see anyone talking about timing chain issues. I can't recall a single thread about any 3rd Gens with that issue (though that doesn't mean a lemon or two don't exist).

As for the rims - larger rims means smaller tires which makes them more susceptible to damage, and the OEM Mazda rims cost a pretty penny from the dealer. Repairs will always vary based on how badly you wreck the rim and where you take it to get repaired. Smaller rims will be slightly cheaper to fix, but a bent rim is a bent rim and curb rash hurts no matter the size.

 

[MazdaMetalhead]

I am looking at 6's (2015-present) and wanted to know if anyone has had any issues with their timing chains or tensioners going bad at relatively low mileage/age? I am ready to pull the trigger on getting a 6 but am worried that if a timing chain related issue were to happen in the future despite proper maintenance that the engine would be trashed?

Perhaps this is something relatively insignificant to worry about and I am just overthinking the what-if's of this car.

Additionally, considering most of the 6's I am looking at come standard with 19" wheels, are these more expensive to repair or similar to other slightly smaller sizes?

Premature timing chain issues... You're not coming from a Nissan, are you? 😆

 

[usernamerequired20]

Premature timing chain issues... You're not coming from a Nissan, are you? 😆

Thankfully not! Still have an older Volvo S80.

 

[tickerguy]

200k+ miles, no issues.

Next.

 

[tango]

Mazda engines are not known for inherent timing chain or related tensioner or guide-rail issues, as far as I am aware. They are interference engines, but which modern engine isn't? I heard recently that a few manufacturers are moving towards belt-in-oil timing gear systems, but I think only Ford (1.0L Ecoboost) and a series of small non-automotive Honda engines are available with it in the US. I'm skeptical of this technology, but I suppose more and more manufacturers will go that route because of cost, weight saving, and noise-reduction benefits. That's if they don't abandon the ICE before then...

 

[Trollz3457]

As a technician and a 6 owner I can say we have never had a timing chain issue come through the doors on the 3rd gen models. The only time the chain will ever truly need to be removed is if you're replacing the head gasket or removing the head. The belt tensioners do tend to leak a little bit and relatively early on but they're quite easy to change and aren't too pricey. As for the 19 in wheels it depends on which ones. The early model 19s are very bad in my opinion and get bent quite easily. I can't tell you how many people come in complaining about how the wheels are bent and even after fixing they still complain that the car vibrates goin down the road. You're better off with the 17s as they won't get bent as easy and I also think they feel better when driving compared to the 19s. A nice set of aftermarket wheels is always an option although idk if you'd want to spend the money on top of getting a car.

 

[papatwice]

As a technician and a 6 owner I can say we have never had a timing chain issue come through the doors on the 3rd gen models. The only time the chain will ever truly need to be removed is if you're replacing the head gasket or removing the head. The belt tensioners do tend to leak a little bit and relatively early on but they're quite easy to change and aren't too pricey. As for the 19 in wheels it depends on which ones. The early model 19s are very bad in my opinion and get bent quite easily. I can't tell you how many people come in complaining about how the wheels are bent and even after fixing they still complain that the car vibrates goin down the road. You're better off with the 17s as they won't get bent as easy and I also think they feel better when driving compared to the 19s. A nice set of aftermarket wheels is always an option although idk if you'd want to spend the money on top of getting a car.

I have the leaking drive belt tensioner issue with my 6. I'm looking to get them replaced with newer OE parts in the next few days. Can someone tell me the part numbers and the expected price range for parts and labor? I'm in the midwest if that helps.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tickerguy]

You talking about the accessory belt tensioner? The tensioner assembly is a couple hundred bucks I think; labor ought to be maybe an hour. Access to get the belt off is through the side skirt on the passenger side which is the only real PITA; you have to remove the wheel and then the skirt but it's not difficult.

I'm a bit annoyed you can't just buy the shock -- on a lot of vehicles you can which makes this a very cheap repair if the bearing in the roller is still ok but I've yet to find the shock alone for this one.

Note that if you are near or beyond 100k miles you should change both the accessory belt and "stretchy" belt while this is being done. The "stretchy" belt cannot be changed without removing the accessory belt first, and if it breaks you're stranded immediately as that's the drive for the water pump without which you immediately overheat. The belts are not expensive and while you have the side skirt and accessory belt off the stretchy belt takes about 5 additional minutes to change. Be warned there are two; one for the 2.0L and one for the 2.5L so make sure you get the right one as the 2.0L engine one will NOT fit (too short.) Since neither of these are reasonably changeable on the side of the road (who carries a trolly jack and stand around with them?) doing it as preventative maintenance is HIGHLY advised.

 

[tango]

Stretchy belt?!? The 3G uses stretchy belts?

 

[Trollz3457]

I have the leaking drive belt tensioner issue with my 6. I'm looking to get them replaced with newer OE parts in the next few days. Can someone tell me the part numbers and the expected price range for parts and labor? I'm in the midwest if that helps.

Thanks in advance.

I believe the tensioner itself runs around $100 and each belt is between $20-$40 but it all depends on supply in your area really. and service should only charge an hour for labor as long as that's all you're there for as the book time for replacing the tensioner is 0.8. They may add on a little more if you do belts with it as well which I always recommend, Anytime you replace the tensioner you should do new belts with it as well.

 

[tickerguy]

Stretchy belt?!? The 3G uses stretchy belts?

Yep. Water pump drive is a stretchy belt (no tensioner); the pump is bolted to the outside of the block and thus cannot have a seal leak into a bad place (like your oil, for instance.) But if that belt breaks you're stranded immediately since no water pump means no cooling and the bad news is that I have no idea whether the temperature sensor will give you adequate warning of the overheat before severe damage occurs -- without circulation it might not. That's definitely a belt you do NOT want to have break.

 

[Archerfish]

I have the leaking drive belt tensioner issue with my 6. I'm looking to get them replaced with newer OE parts in the next few days. Can someone tell me the part numbers and the expected price range for parts and labor? I'm in the midwest if that helps.

Thanks in advance.

Is this the same with auto tensioner? If it is, please see the pictures.