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Well, I spent about 3 and a half hours at my dealership last night and have walked away without a new car but with a lot more knowledge of how to deal. Lessons first, then the story.

1. If you want to get the best offer, go to the dealer on the last day of the month and say you are willing to take delivery today IF the terms are agreeable. They love to get a few more sales in on the last day of the month.

2. When playing with Mazda's online payment calculator, when you enter the sale price, it will automaticly add any rebates Mazda is running when displaying monthly payments. Do NOT subtract the rebates from the sale price or you will walk into the dealer thinking you can get a much better monthly payment than possible.

3. The CX-7 is a great vehicle(car, suv, whatever you want to call it). Get handling, high quality interior, fun to drive, and practical to boot.

On to the story. I have been talking to the Mazda sales rep for about two weeks now about getting a Speed6. I finally had a chance last night to take my car in and have them appraise the trade-in value on it. It is a 2005 Mazda6s Hatch, manual transmission, with everything except leather and heated seats. It is great condition except for the big scratch on the left side skirt. It has 22,000 miles on it. After checking Kelly Blue Book, I came in with the number 14,900 for the trade amount I wanted. They looked it over and offered me 16,000! I was in shock. So, things are looking good. My payoff amount on my lease is 19,000 though, so I am still 3,000 in the hole.

On to the offer - Mazdaspeed6 GT 25,100. 36 month lease, 479 a month. 1,200 down. Hmm. That is a hundred dollars more a month than all the numbers I had worked up before I came in (and yes I had taking into account my negative equity). I tell my sales reps this and he actually has me pull up the Mazda lease calculator and show him how I got the numbers. He then took that to his finance manager and he came out and showed me my error. This is where I learned lesson number two about the calculator automaticly adding in rebates, so when I was playing with numbers, I was giving myself double rebates. Oops. The finance manager did come back though with another offer of 24,600 for the MS6 and 17,000 for my trade. Wow! Still, with my negative equity and double rebates gone, it still didn't enter my budget (payments would have been 426/month with 1,200 down, I was looking for 370/month). I felt bad because they were making me a great offer and being nice about it too, but I just couldn't do it.

Well, the general manager was the next to parade out and tell me how great a deal I was getting and when I still said no, he offered me a Speed3 at MSRP (they were running a 3,000 mark-up on the window sticker) with the same trade-in numbers as before. This actually turned out to be more expensive. Then he offered me a CX-7 and I said I would love one but it would have to be 4-wheel drive. He said "let me see what I can do." They pulled on around and let me take it for a test drive and that is when I fell in love with it. Only problem I found is that the stock radio sucks. You really need to get the Bose package, but that was another 1,500 dollars. Anyways, to wrap things up, they came back and offered me 395/month lease with 1,200 down, invoice cost, and I said if they make it $0 down, I will sign the papers. They couldn't do that and since it didn't have Bose in that cost (It would have uped the monthly payment another $30), I left. They were really nice and made me great offers, but I couldn't see spending more when I still love my 6. This was all at Russ Darrow Mazda in Milwaukee, WI. I highly recommend this dealer to anyone in the area (plus they have two Speed3 on the lot right now).
 

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SO, i was curious. When shopping for a new car... should you offer the dealer invoice + 2% and then subtract incentives, or do you have to purchase MSRP to subtract incentives?
 

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1. If you want to get the best offer, got to the dealer on the last day of the month and say you are willing to take deliver today IF the terms are agreeable. They love to get a few more sales in on the last day of the month.
:yesnod: i got mine on halloween, two years ago for $18.5k, minus ttl. i'll definitely go this route again next time.

sorry to hear about the mistake. simple enough of one to make, but probably felt like you got punched in the balls when they had to show you where you went wrong. but it does sound like they were trying to accomodate you with anything. too bad it didn't work out.


and anyone who pays $3k over msrp is a moron and deserves to get taken.
 

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What would really be the difference between the first of the month and the end of last month?...I mean come on..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What would really be the difference between the first of the month and the end of last month?...I mean come on..
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Because salesmen and dealerships will get bonuses based on how many cars they sell in a given month. On the last day of the month, they have 24 hours to pad their numbers for the month, so they are looking to make deals NOW. On the first day of the month, they have another thirty one days to meet there numbers, meaning they are more willing to go back and forth with you, play their game, make you wait. The reason I was getting the offers I got so quickly was because they didn't have time to go back and forth with me and still get the numbers on the books for October. You can probably get the same numbers at any point in the month, but you will have to work harder for it in the beginning of the month versus the last day of the month.


SO, i was curious. When shopping for a new car... should you offer the dealer invoice + 2% and then subtract incentives, or do you have to purchase MSRP to subtract incentives?
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No, you do not have to shop MSRP to subtract incentives. I haven't heard of the invoice + 2% rule, but you can certainly offer invoice minus incentives. Be careful when the dealer presents an offer to you and there are incentives being offered. Most of the time, the first offer will just be MSRP minus the incentives. You need to talk them down to invoice and then take off the incentives as well. This is the best way to get a deal. Remember, the incentives/rebates don't cost the dealer anything, so they are not lossing any more money by having them.
 

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J Dragon, This is actually true. There is added pressure for salesmen to get a few more cars through the door at the end of every month. The attitude of the sales staff starts changing with minutes ticking away at the end of the month, especially true this time of year when car sales are slowing down and a few of last years models are sitting on the lot.
 

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I've bought two Mazda's at the end of the month... actually, both were at the end of November. And in both cases I found the salespeople far more willing to make a deal... desperate, in a way, to make sure that I left with one of their cars.

Worked out in my favour both times.

I'd say there's some truth to the end-of-the-month theory.
 

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having a family member who is in the car sales business, the end-of-the-month effect is much greater than people imagine. I promise you that you will have a 200% better chance at striking the best deal if you go in within the last 3 or 4 days of the month. The sales manager is actually the one who becomes more willing to negotiate than it is the sales people.
 

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Dang so that means i'm gonna have to wait >_<
 

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i care to differ.

The best timing is the end of the month, when the old year is going out and the new year is coming in ;) I got 25% off msrp. 24k & some change down to 18K. Now thats a hell of a deal.
 

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Here's my recommendation. Get on Mazda's website and configure the car the way you want it. Request a quote from 3 local dealers (at minimum). Then, all that's left to do is to have them duke it out amongst themselves. Whoever comes up with the best price wins. Don't set foot into the dealership until you've got a semi-firm quote. They DO NOT need to see your trade until you're at the end of the negociation process. Give your trade a fair assessment using KBB.com or sell it yourself. If they really want to sell a car, they'll come up with ballpark numbers on the trade without seeing it.

I agree that waiting until the end of the month is best. Also, consider the time of year. The two best times are August/September (EOY clearance) and right after Christmas when they're really hungry for any sale.

It's really important that you keep the negociations limited to phone calls and emails. Once you're in the dealership, the likelihood of you settling on a deal is much greater. If you stand your ground, they'll just leave you sit for hours on end until you cave.

When I bought my 6, I had three dealers involved. The dealer that I bought it from started negociations at invoice because he knew he had competition. In the end, I went to the dealer on two occasions - once to firm up the quote by letting them assess my trade (ink was already on paper) and the second time to pick up the car at delivery (they had to get it from NJ). All told, I spent maybe an hour of total time in the showroom and I bought the car at invoice minus $3000 incentive, minus $1000 finance incentive that I wasn't actually entitled to because I didn't go through Mazda finance (rates sucked).

The only downside is that I had to drive over 20 miles to get to the dealership when there was a Mazda dealer just a few blocks away from where I work. Unfortunately, that Mazda dealership just wouldn't bite. It's funny too because I bought my last three cars from the dealership group that they're a part of, and they are usually very aggressive with price.

Good luck, take your time and don't get too excited until the keys are in your hand.
 

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I stopped in at Russ Darrow Mazda in Milwaukee last summer, when I was considering buying (I since decided to wait and get a 2007 probably next summer). I went on Sunday when they were not open, I saw the $1995 "environmental package" add on to every car. Were they sticking with that or was it really optional, as salesman later claimed, when I complained about it via email.
 

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I stopped in at Russ Darrow Mazda in Milwaukee last summer, when I was considering buying (I since decided to wait and get a 2007 probably next summer). I went on Sunday when they were not open, I saw the $1995 "environmental package" add on to every car. Were they sticking with that or was it really optional, as salesman later claimed, when I complained about it via email.
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sounds like a croc, ie, a "package" created by and to benefit the dealer. mazda's website doesn't mention anything about an environmental package; only thing i could find was an option for emissions reducing equipment for $100.
 

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having a family member who is in the car sales business, the end-of-the-month effect is much greater than people imagine. I promise you that you will have a 200% better chance at striking the best deal if you go in within the last 3 or 4 days of the month. The sales manager is actually the one who becomes more willing to negotiate than it is the sales people.
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I just got a used BMW for nearly $8K under book, on 10/31. I was able to counteroffer and get $1000 more out of my trade than they originally offered.

Having been in and around the business, I can attest to the month-end effect.
 

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sounds like a croc, ie, a "package" created by and to benefit the dealer. mazda's website doesn't mention anything about an environmental package; only thing i could find was an option for emissions reducing equipment for $100.
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Oh of course you are right about that, it was on a supplemental dealer sticker. I was asking the guy who was at that same dealership recently about that...whether they tried to foist it on him or not.

They call it "environmental package"...I think it is crap like paint protection, fabric protection,...
 

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They call it "environmental package"...I think it is crap like paint protection, fabric protection,...
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:yesnod: you sniffed it out. its crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I stopped in at Russ Darrow Mazda in Milwaukee last summer, when I was considering buying (I since decided to wait and get a 2007 probably next summer). I went on Sunday when they were not open, I saw the $1995 "environmental package" add on to every car. Were they sticking with that or was it really optional, as salesman later claimed, when I complained about it via email.
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I saw a couple of their vehicles with this on their window sticker - mainly the ones parked right in front of the building. None of the vehicles I was offered had it though. If think the dealer adds it in as an added "bonus" to try and get people who don't know any better. I would just say I don't want a car with that on it or if that is the only model they have, I won't buy it if I have to pay for it. Just another thing to watch out for in negotiations. Every dealer has their own way of trying to make more.
 

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I saw a couple of their vehicles with this on their window sticker - mainly the ones parked right in front of the building. None of the vehicles I was offered had it though. If think the dealer adds it in as an added "bonus" to try and get people who don't know any better. I would just say I don't want a car with that on it or if that is the only model they have, I won't buy it if I have to pay for it. Just another thing to watch out for in negotiations. Every dealer has their own way of trying to make more.
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Thanks for letting me know what you saw. I'll probably get a price from Darrow and also Amato, when the time comes. Though I'd ultimately like to buy from Hall (if they'll meet the price), as that is where I'll go for service. I found Darrow to be kind of annoying, they would not give me a price quote by email when they were advertising $4000-5000 below invoice last summer.

BTW, another fairly local place to get prices is Holliday Mazda in Fond du Lac, they put their sale prices right on line at their website.
 

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I wish i read this before buying my car... a person I knew worked at the dealer and thought he got me the best possible deal... didn't look like it with some of the deals you guys got, although US and Canadain prices differ dramatically.
 

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one thing i must say.... at $17000 they were offering you extremely well trade in value.... such a trade in value is not heard of.
 
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