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First sorry for the lengthy post.


Bought the car last September 2014. The engine light came on after 3 weeks of using it. Brought it back to the seller. He scanned it and he said it was the O2 sensor. He replaced the O2 sensor and the CEL was gone....until the following week. Anyhow, he couldn't figure it out and basically just gave up. So I thought you know what she drives good, I'll deal with it when summer comes as I don't have a garage.


Winter came (January) and the car RPM was surging when at IDLE to point that sometimes it feels like its going to stall. I bought a code scanner and it came back with the following codes: P2187 & P2177. When I scanned it again couple months ago, it came back with P300, P2187. Took it to a shop and they told me I have a leak on my Intake manifold. They want $950 + tax to fix it. I said hell NO. I don't have the money and I don't really want to pay for something that I can probably fix.


So I've been doing some research again and came to conclusion that it has to be one of these things:
* PCV Hose leak or actual PCV. I will remove the IM next week and I'll check "that HOSE" for any cracks.


* Injen Air intake set-up. I read online these INJEN air intakes are known to cause CEL to come on.


* Purge valve solenoid. Can someone tell me how mine looks different than the one I took from the junk yard? DO I even have this installed?


* Faulty Airflow meter/sensor - Not really sure how to determine if its faulty. Read online that when you unplug the connector from a faulty sensor, the car should shut off. Mine didn't. Some said its not true. Some said unplugging the connector does not really prove anything. There's a lot of info online about this issue. Since the weather started climbing up to high 15-20s, the car has not surge that bad. Its surging when IDLE but not stalling. Ive cleaned the sensor, replaced it with another junk yard part, but did not fix the CEL.


* TB issue. I took it off and cleaned it with CRC Mass Airflow sensor cleaner. I've timed it and it re-positions less than/within 30secs after shut-off.
So I think my TB is still good an not the culprit.


* Intake manifold leak (bottom). When I bought the car, it looked like one of the two front tubes have been glued. See pics below. When the shop told me it was that crack causing the leak, I bought a JB weld high heat stick and re-applied it around the area. Not sure if that sealed the leak completely. CEL still on. I sprayed carb cleaner around the area while the car is on to see if the RPM will surge but it didn't.


Question: Will you consider replacing the above parts with used or junk yard parts? I've called around (Auto parts stores, dealer) and these parts are quite pricey especially the intake manifold.


Also, the purge valve I grabbed from the junk yard (see pic with me holding it) does not look like the one I have in my car. When I looked up the part number of the valve from my car it says that its a solenoid vacuum valve for 2.0 engines (euro version??) See link: T8 Genuine Mazda 6 2 0 Solenoid Vacuum Valve K5T48279 Z504 | eBay. How is this even possible?


I need help. I will try to remove the intake manifold this weekend. Any help is appreciated.


Thanks.
 

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If you have the 2.3l and are replacing the pcv and hose make sure you have some time. It's time consuming be prepared. I just did it this weekend. Not a lot of space and a lot of hoses and electrical connectors to remove.
 

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Where does the purge valve solenoid attach to the intake manifold there’s a curved tube that’s disconnected from mine and I can’t find where it goes
 
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