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Is it possible? Ive never took the head unit off and seen the back of it. Does it have the audio port to hook up my old sub into my car easily or would it be a pain the ass?
Installing sub into stock head unit?
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http://forum.mazda6club.com/car-electronics/226674-bose-subwoofer-replacement.html
Please try and search the forum before asking questions...I will refrain from what every long-time user of this formum would say with your question lol There are a dozen or more car-audio threads of what people did and this is just one of them.
I just bought my Speed6 in December and before I even felt comfident enough to post a question I read a few dozens threads from front to back so that I was sure it wasn't covered somewhere and in that process I would basically find the answer to my question. Tons of info here just need to take a second and Search for it.
:deadhorse:
Please try and search the forum before asking questions...I will refrain from what every long-time user of this formum would say with your question lol There are a dozen or more car-audio threads of what people did and this is just one of them.
I just bought my Speed6 in December and before I even felt comfident enough to post a question I read a few dozens threads from front to back so that I was sure it wasn't covered somewhere and in that process I would basically find the answer to my question. Tons of info here just need to take a second and Search for it.
:deadhorse:
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yeah i DID look and i wasnt able to find what i was looking for, just like how your link doesnt answer my question ONE BIT
DUMB
DUMB
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Yeah it says that really clearly, dumb. talk to me when you get a real car and not a 6i.
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Copied the wrong thread;
http://forum.mazda6club.com/car-electronics/138807-bose-wiring.html
This tells you what wires to use from the stock Bose sub in the trunk and how to hook up to a new or an existing amp. These wires act as your Pre-Amp wires that would normally come from a aftermarket head unit. And FYI its a sticky on the TOP PAGE of the IN CAR ELECTRONICS section.
EDIT for (6i Mazda): You are totally correct, this topic HAS been covered in almost every IN CAR ELECTRONICS thread. If you start from "Forums" and follow the bread crumbs i.e. MAZDA6CLUB.com --> FORUMS --> VISUAL/AUDIO --> MAZDA6 1ST GEN --> IN CAR ELECTRONICS --> TADA!!!
http://forum.mazda6club.com/car-electronics/138807-bose-wiring.html
This tells you what wires to use from the stock Bose sub in the trunk and how to hook up to a new or an existing amp. These wires act as your Pre-Amp wires that would normally come from a aftermarket head unit. And FYI its a sticky on the TOP PAGE of the IN CAR ELECTRONICS section.
EDIT for (6i Mazda): You are totally correct, this topic HAS been covered in almost every IN CAR ELECTRONICS thread. If you start from "Forums" and follow the bread crumbs i.e. MAZDA6CLUB.com --> FORUMS --> VISUAL/AUDIO --> MAZDA6 1ST GEN --> IN CAR ELECTRONICS --> TADA!!!
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ok, then DUMB on me but thanks, thats all i was looking for
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after looking at that im even more confused. can i put my box with my amp and a 10" in my trunk and still have the bose bump too? Id hate to just leave it sitting there doing nothing and i still have NO idea on how i would hook it up. Ive installed it in my old mustand before but just plugged it into the back of my stereo and ran a wire to my battery, was easy but this isnt looking so promising
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And i have BOSE just to make it clear
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Yea our stock units dont have the RCA connections like aftermarket ones do. You have to run the wires to the amp like if you were using speaker outputs from the radio.
If you add a sub there is no need for the Bose sub. It is nothing compared to a decent 10" and you basically unhook it to use its outputs so you don't need to run RCA's from the headunit all the way back. Start searching more for Bose Amp Wiring and such. There are more posts of people who did add sub's with those wires and maybe they will give more info.
If your unsure of those previous directions about the wiring then I'd suggest not messing with it. If your not sure how to use a LOC or speaker level inputs to an amp then it might be a bit much for you to do on your own and there is even a chance your amp doesn't even have those inputs and in that case you need to have RCA's.
If you add a sub there is no need for the Bose sub. It is nothing compared to a decent 10" and you basically unhook it to use its outputs so you don't need to run RCA's from the headunit all the way back. Start searching more for Bose Amp Wiring and such. There are more posts of people who did add sub's with those wires and maybe they will give more info.
If your unsure of those previous directions about the wiring then I'd suggest not messing with it. If your not sure how to use a LOC or speaker level inputs to an amp then it might be a bit much for you to do on your own and there is even a chance your amp doesn't even have those inputs and in that case you need to have RCA's.
I installed an amp and sub following the methods on the previously posted links. Everything you need for the amp turn -on lead and audio signal is on the connector for the sub. There's four wires on the sub harness. One (I think blue with red stripe) is a power for the stock sub, and you can splice in your amp turn-on lead there (most installers suggest using an fused lead, I didn't). I then took an old, mono RCA cable I had lying aroung, stripped the wires, and spliced the positive wire to the brown harness wire. I didn't do anything with the negative. I initially thought things would be screwy without a negative, but not so! You can then buy an RCA splitter to connect the mono RCA to the L and R inputs on your amp.
If you're getting some noise through the sub(s) from electrical interference through the car's chassis, your amp may not be able to use the low volt (2 volt) signal. If there's too much noise, you can try hooking up your audio signal into the post-amp connectors on the sub. There's three bolts holding the stock sub amp to the rear deck. Unscrew those and you'll see two wires from the amp assembly to the actual speaker. You can then tap into those for your signal. I think the larger connector is the positive, but test to make sure. Careful though using this method as it may be too much for the your aftermarket amp's inputs to handle.
I've had two different sub-amp combos in my speedie and I had to use the second method for one, and the first method for my current sub. The stock sub is still hooked up and works but is overshadowed by the two 10s in a bandpass box.
If you're getting some noise through the sub(s) from electrical interference through the car's chassis, your amp may not be able to use the low volt (2 volt) signal. If there's too much noise, you can try hooking up your audio signal into the post-amp connectors on the sub. There's three bolts holding the stock sub amp to the rear deck. Unscrew those and you'll see two wires from the amp assembly to the actual speaker. You can then tap into those for your signal. I think the larger connector is the positive, but test to make sure. Careful though using this method as it may be too much for the your aftermarket amp's inputs to handle.
I've had two different sub-amp combos in my speedie and I had to use the second method for one, and the first method for my current sub. The stock sub is still hooked up and works but is overshadowed by the two 10s in a bandpass box.
You should use a dedicated power cable straight from the battery. I went through a rubber grommet located on the driver side firewall. Make sure the gauge of both the power and ground will be adequate for the amount of power you want to be pushing. Visit a local sound shop for advice. Most places like Best Buy and Wal-Mart carry amplifier kits, but I just bought the power and ground wires in bulk since I didn't want too much excess and the rca's and lead wires weren't necessary.
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