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Discussion Starter #1
...Update....

Plenty of pics of each component now available at the following link. Still need to develop a few more pics of finalized wiring runs..little stuff like that, the rest is available. When you get to the site click the Sound System Upgrade link. I used frames quite a bit, so you need IE 5.0 or Netscape 6 at a minimum.

http://geocities.com/my_mazda_6/atenza.html

Will also post the color code for all of the door speakers, took a couple of hours to trace those wires out.

...Original Post...

I finally did it, went out and ordered a complete upgrade for the car's system. I've ordered an RF 1500bd amp, and two RF Power HX2 12" subs. I've already got a sealed box from my truck that will just fit the 6. I custom built it for my SHO awhile back, and amazingly it fits the 6 with almost the exact same specs.

I have no idea yet what I am going to do about the components. I really don't want to rip the car apart taking them out, but I wouldn't mind a little SQ to go with the off the wall SPL I'll soon have. Going to wire the 2 ohm DVC HX2's in bridged parallel and wire the coils in series to give me a 2 ohm load on the 1500bd. This should pull at least 1600 watts out of it. I've also got an RF 200.4 laying around, which I will push the components with if I decide to take the plunge and replace them. What sucks is I'm pretty much stuck with the factory HU since I really don't want to make any drastic changes to the interior cosmetics. I knew that custom faceplate was going to be a headache as soon as I saw it.

I do have the million dollar question here though: does anyone know if the stock radio (non bose) has RCA jacks? I know it would be too good to be true, just thought I would ask before trying to delve behind the titanium faceplate on my own.

I have a website that is currently dedicated to my RIP SHO, I'll create an atenza/6 section once I start the install. Haven't figured out how to run the 4 guage power wires from the battery to the rear yet, but guess I'll get to it.

Here's the link to the box I am going to use...it's an almost perfect fit for the 6, if anyone wants exact measurements I'll post them.

http://angelfire.com/de2/diesel2/sys.html

The complete site will be located at:

http://geocities.com/my_mazda_6/atenza.html

Moved my 6 portion to Geocities. Angelfire's ads were interfering with my source coding. Most links aren't operational yet, completing the site in my free time. My amp should be here tomorrow :) can't wait.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

I'm sure if you've got money to blow like this then you could have a custom dash fabricated that would fit a normal DIN unit.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

Actually, the cost shouldn't be too high if he plays his cards right.

As far as RCA jacks, nope. You've got pins back there. Although I haven't seen it done, it wouldn't be difficult to convert these pins into RCA jacks. There has to be analog outputs back there for the tape deck- it's the only possible way it can connect.

You'll need a bit of patience, however, as you trial-and-error your way finding which four pins are the left and right channels.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

On factory radios there are only pins that connect that factory wiring harness to the deck. Same goes for the facotry CD player. The part you need is whats called a 4 channel Line out converter (available at like Best Buy, Curcuit City). This will give you atleast 1 or 2 sets of RCA jacks (depending on brand, i would suggest Metra) that you can use to wire up your amps.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

Actually I wouldn't mind getting a aftermarket faceplate, but the problem is I'm kinda keeping my fingers crossed for the Mazda MPS to be released here next year. If it is, I don't want to waste a bunch of mods on the cars' next owner, and dealerships pay absolutely nothing for aftermarket mods.

I've never heard of the 4 Channel Line out converter, withought RCA's I was going to hook it up the old fashioned way....via the high input jacks on my amps. I was just going to do an inline splice with the rear speakers, and take my inputs from there. Much shorter run, no hunting around for pins or wires, and will give me some control over the amp via the fade controls of the factory HU. As long as the output voltage doesn't exceed 10V coming from the HU, I won't need an input conditioner. I'm thinking the impedence from the factory speakers will keep the voltage at manageable levels.

It would be pretty simple to convert the pins to RCA, however the output amperage would cause the amplifier to clip. The RCA inputs on an amp are designed to take between 300-600mA, not the 2-3amps that are coming off the pins, which is why aftermarket HU's usually have dedicated circuitry for the RCA block. If it doesn't have built in RCA's my best option is to use the high inputs.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

A line out converter isn't the best solution though. You'll be amplifying the distortion from the factory amp. If you can find the pins that are pre-outs in the back, this would sound much better.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

If you have the BOSE-SYSTEM then it´s no problem

The Cables between the Head-unit and the BOSE-AMP have a Low-Level-Signal. So this you can use.

Also if you have a Kombi or Sport-Sedan - there are the SUB-AMP build in into the SUBWOOFER in the trunk - not in the BOSE-AMP - If you have a SEDAN then the AMP for the SUBWOOFER is in the BOSE-AMP.....

CU
 

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Replying to Topic 'Installing 1500W+ system'

QUOTE
Originally posted by stretchsje


            A line out converter isn't the best solution though.  You'll be amplifying the distortion from the factory amp.  If you can find the pins that are pre-outs in the back, this would sound much better.[/b]
Hmmm... nooooooooo

Not if you tap into the signal before the amp. I wouldn't worry too much about LOCs, because a GOOD one, like Soundgate or Navone, will cause you no problems. I know of quite a few HIGH end installs ($25,000+ for equipment alone) that use LOCs with no problems whatsoever.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

Also note that if you dont want a Line Out Converter (LOC) some amplifiers will have the high level inputs built into the amp and from there you can run the amp to your speakers. However, I have found that getting a quality LOC makes things alot easier. Just my $0.02.. :)
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

Absolut....yes I ensured before ordering the amp that it has high level inputs. Would not have ordered it otherwise...still think this is the best way to go, without having to do anything fancy like a LOC.

I would give anything to have the Bose system, but just couldn't wait the 12wks for my dealer to get a vehicle in stock that was equipped with it...probably should have shopped around more, but too late now...just gotta deal with what I've got.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

You want the Bose? I'm ripping it right out of mine. Remember BOSE's unofficial catch phrase in the industry: "No highs? No Lows? Must be BOSE."

If your amp has line level inputs, you're in an even beter place. just tap off the speaker wires coming out of the stock amp and wire them to your new amp in the trunk.

Mind if I ask what kind of amps you're going to be using?
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

Oops, nevermind. Forgot about the Bd1500.1. Oh, an those amps are notoriously underrated. Check the birth certificate that comes with the amp, it should have a rating of over 1800w at 2 ohm, an I've seen some samples that have shown over 2Kw.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

DAMN, forgot one more thing.... you'll nee bigger cables than 4g, let me tell you that. Look into 1/0g for the Bd, and 8g for the 200.4.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

I'm with you Entropism, most people don't seem to realize how simple the line level inputs are. All I'm going to do is attach them to the same wires that are connected to the rear speakers.

The 200.4 will probably collect dust for another yr. I'm saving my real mods for the Mazda MPS if it comes out next year. Or at least for Gen 2 of the 6. I do wish I had the Bose...seems to be drawing rave reviews on here.

The 1500bd is sweet, the birth certificate on one I got not too long ago said 1825 watts as tested. What's even better is the Power HX2's are underrated too. In a sealed box I could prob push 1000W apiece to them without prob's. If I'm still not happy when it is all together, I may just get another 1500bd and give each sub a dedicated amp :).

I checked the Rockford site, they say 4G is all that is needed, so I will probably stick with it. Its going to be hard enough running a wire that thick all the way from the batt to the trunk, can't imagine fighting with an even thicker wire, not to mention I am going to have to upgrade my batt ground as well.

My system should arrive in the next few days, hopefully UPS doesn't screw around and decide to wait until after the weekend to deliver. I probably should start pre-running the wires, but after being at work all day, kinda hard to be in the mood to fight with some wiring.
 

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Reading Topic: Installing 1500W+ system

Thanks dude, I really regret I had to give them away when I sold the car. I didn't have the stock rims to put back on so I had no choice.
 

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Replying to Topic 'Installing 1500W+ system'

Got my amp today :) bench certificate rated it at 1725 watts. Definitely sweet. I've decided to take the plunge and use the 200.4 also. Going to be a real pain splicing into all those component wires. Will prob run a block of 8 wires all the way to the front and patch into the wiring harness behind the HU. Course then I will have to leave the back speakers hooked to the HU if I want to take my high level inputs from them. What a pain, when will car makers start adding RCA's to their HU's?

Will leave the factory components, really not trying to turn this into a 2wk ordeal and don't want to take anything apart I don't have to. 50 watts per spkr shouldn't do much damage, will prob just turn down the gain on the amp anyway to be safe.
 
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