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Discussion Starter #1
Well i did it. i installed liteswaps H1 hid kit. I will post pics however i have made them all 1024X768. in total all pics are 12 MB. I will be more than happy to help anyone install these on there car. Also about the pics does anyone have 12 MB on a server I can link them to. you guys will greatly benefit from them. If you want to talk about this leave me a message at home 310-320-6096 and i will do my best to walk you through it!
Cheers!:p
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Wohoo :)

Took the liberty to press Enter after each pic so they don't all is one one loooooooong row :D Also fixed a typo in the third-from last pic URL and the first pic who had a strange instead of [img].
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Sweet! You gotta do a write up of your install.

How much did it cost?

How long did it take for you to get it done?
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

I will be typing out the process tonight. Also the pictures above are not in any order. STAY TUNED!
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Can't wait. I have been looking into this briefly and now that I see it on a steel gray just like mine, I don't wanna mess around with ordering parts from overseas to get OEM set up.
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Ok well here it goes!

I started out yesterday by opening the box to the new kit at about 1:30. It had all the directions and warnings i needed. I had been doing some research on these kits and had a basic idea how they were installed.

Step One: Put the lights together and test the bulbs. Both bulbs in this case both worked with no problem.

Step Two: Just a quick note. I did not remove the bumper to do this! Although im sure it would have made putting the bulbs in a lot easier I didn’t want to mess up or something so then my lines would match up in the end. Besides it was more work. After removing the caps for the headlights I removed the bulbs currently in the housing. The next thing I did was drill a hole in the plastic cap approximately 1 inch or 25mm.

Step Three: Now I place the HID bulbs in the housing. This was one of the more challenging things because the bulb is longer and it is a real tight space. Also I didn’t want to touch the bulb with my hands. To get the bulb in the housing you need to take the three wires that come from the bulb and tuck them in between the fender and the piece of medal that forms the engine compartment. Then slowly slide the bulb in the hole. The bulb will touch the housing as it goes in due to the limited amount of space. You may hear a scrapping sound but this is not damaging the bulb. It is just the metal clamp that holds the bulb in place touching the glass.

Step Four: Once the bulb is in place take the existing wire for your OEM bulbs and connect it to the positive wire from the kit. Wrap the two wires together with some electrical tape. After that put the metal clamp that holds the light in place securely around the bulb. Then place the cap back on the light housing.

Step Five: For the passenger side you must unscrew the three bolts holding the radiator fluid on. This gives you more room to work. Then repeat steps three and four.

Step Six: Pull the wires you stuffed down to get the bulb in back up to the surface so you are able to plug them in.

Step Seven: Plug everything together so you see how much wire you have to work with. Then mount the ballasts and starters in an appropriate location.

Step Eight: I looked for some places to mount the ballasts and starter but it was hard because the engine compartment is sooo cramped. On the driver side i found that on top of the air filter box would work because all I had to do was put down some double-sided tape and stick it right on. If you’re wondering about changing the air filter in the future, no sweat. There is enough slack in the wires to remove the air filter cover to install another one. If worse comes to worse all you have to do id disconnect the wires to the ballast. I mounted the starter on the driver’s side about the height of the headlamp. I placed the starter upside down on the tape because it is more flush then right side up.

Step Nine: Mounting for the passenger’s side. I placed the ballast on top of the 4 coils that are visible on the picture. I used the provided metal plate to zip tie the ballast to. So in essence the coils, metal plate, and ballast are all zip tied together. The kit comes with zip ties. I mounted the starter underneath the metal plate to the left (if your facing the front of the car) of the coils. I also turned the starter over and mounted it with tape because of the bottom being flush.

Step Ten: For the driver’s side grounding wire I used the bolt at the top of the car near the windshield. It’s the one closed to the battery but no touching the plastic. For the passenger side I used one of the bolts I removed to move the radiator fluid holder. When I put the radiator fluid holder back I just placed the ground wire between the frame and the bolt and continued to tighten the reservoir down.

Final Step: Take all your wires and rote then in areas away from heat and so the will look somewhat nice. Bam you’re done!

TIPS: Test the bulbs first!!!!
The hole I drilled in the plastic cap had to be filed a little bit bigger so I could get one of the connecters through.
The plastic cap was a bitch to get on!
Once everything is hooked up test it before mounting it.
The metal clamps that secure the bulbs in place were one of the hardest things to put back on for me. I suggest you study how the clamp works with nothing in the housing so you have an idea of what you are doing.
I noticed that while driving on bumpy rounds the bulbs tend to shake a little in the housings. I can bear with this.
This install took me about two hours. This is the first thing like this I have ever done on a car. So I was very hesitant and scared about doing some things but I got through it.
Since I was the first person to do this on a 6 I was granted some spared expense in return for this explanation. I recommend this kit to anyone who want true HIDS. www.liteswap.com

Feel free to ask any questions! I will do my best to help anybody out!
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

I've actually been looking at Catz H1 kits for my Mazda6 and it's looking pretty nice on your car.

Question: What conversion kit did you purchase (4500K, 5500K, 6000K)? Also, in comparison with the original Halogen lights on the Mazda6, how much of a difference did you see after installing the HIDs?

Thanks! ^_^
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

I got the 4500k and the package says 200% brighter. I didn't believe this at first but when i was done it is very noticable. The reflectors on the road light up much further away than before. I went up in the hills of palos verdes where there are no street lights and my god was there a difference
 

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Replying to Topic 'Installed my HID kit today'

Was the light just look very bright white? does it have any blueish color, like what you see on Audi or BMW?
 

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Replying to Topic 'Installed my HID kit today'

Guys... the blue/purple you see in Audis are NOT from the actual HID capsule. Keep in mind that as you go up in Kelvin temperature, you are REDUCING light output.

4500K would give you the best output and performance. After about 5 hours of use, the light will turn more blue, but only SLIGHTLY.

I sell all the kits, and I would make more $ off people pushing the 5500 and 6000K kits, but I am a firm believer in selling quality and FUNCTIONALITY.

Adam, regarding the capsule shaking on bumps, make sure the retaining clip is secure, you might have loosened it during installation. It is bendable, so it might have been bent out a little. If that does not help, contact me and I will get you a spacer.

These kits retail on OUR site for $499.99 (MSRP $588) and are in such high demand that we have over 20+ backorders until next week. We are the largest online retailer of Catz HID and pass those savings onto you. These are NOT your typical Ebay, Hanabi, or "Philips Kits". It is a complete package w/ OEM supplied components.

Eric
Liteswap Website
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Atom:
How is the beam pattern looking? Has it changed at all to your eyes from the halogens? Did you have to re-aim the lenses after installation? Bascially I'm tryign to gauge the real-world performance in reference to the "focally correct" bulbs.

thanks,
-Alt
 

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Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Liteswap: I noticed that it doesn't look like the Catz setup is wired through relay directly to the battery, but rather it is wired directly to the factory wiring harness for the lights. Can the factory Mazda headlight wiring support the significantly higher turn-on current of the HID ballast? Or are the ballasts designed to soft-start? I am aware that it is possible to degrade the headlight cluster switch terminals over time if a relayed setup is not used in halogen->HID retrofits. How does Catz address this?

thanks,
-Alt
 

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Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

We have never had any issues from customers with problems starting a HID kit or with factory wiring not being able to support the power load.
 

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Replying to Topic 'Installed my HID kit today'

The Catz HID kits are a series circuit design. The igniter and ballast manufacturer (Matsushita) developed an interesting series of film capacitors to deal increased current draw. EPCOS developed the MKT, MFT, and MKN capacitors for advanced automotive lighting.
The initial start-up is the most current consuming aspect of the HID conversion. Upon ignition, the system should draw less that 15 amps. When the igniter shuts off, usually 3-5 seconds after ignition, the ballast provides a secondary voltage to sustain the arc. The headlight circuit should be protected by a fuse or circuit breaker with at least a 15 amp current rating provided that the fuse or breaker only protects the headlight circuit. If the fuse or breaker protects another circuit, such as foglights or instrument lights for instance, the fuse rating may be required to be a little higher.

We have found that the current draw that is associated with igniter start-up does not seem to have a long term effect on associated headlight wiring or circuitry. We actually see more customers that have issues with high wattage halogen replacement bulbs as they draw their usable current at all times while they are in use.

:hoho
 

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Reading Topic: Reading Topic: Installed my HID kit today

Huh, that's kind of weird, I dealt with a guy named Eric Wong when I was buying a diecast model. You would think it wasn't that common of a name...
 

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Replying to Topic 'Installed my HID kit today'

Excellent, thank you very much for the informative post. It looks like Catz has found a better solution than merely relaying the circuit like you need to do with integrated ballast/igniter systems. I think that dealing with the current draw issue electronically rather than electrically is more elegant. Very nice work! Thanks again...

-Alt

QUOTE
Originally posted by liteswap


            The Catz HID kits are a series circuit design. The igniter and ballast manufacturer (Matsushita) developed an interesting series of film capacitors to deal increased current draw.  EPCOS developed the MKT, MFT, and MKN capacitors for advanced automotive lighting.
The initial start-up is the most current consuming aspect of the HID conversion.  Upon ignition, the system should draw less that 15 amps.  When the igniter shuts off, usually 3-5 seconds after ignition, the ballast provides a secondary voltage to sustain the arc.  The headlight circuit should be protected by a fuse or circuit breaker with at least a 15 amp current rating provided that the fuse or breaker only protects the headlight circuit.  If the fuse or breaker protects another circuit, such as foglights or instrument lights for instance, the fuse rating may be required to be a little higher.
 
We have found that the current draw that is associated with igniter start-up does not seem to have a long term effect on associated headlight wiring or circuitry.  We actually see more customers that have issues with high wattage halogen replacement bulbs as they draw their usable current at all times while they are in use.  

:hoho[/b]
 
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