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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I needed an oil change and inspection sticker to be fully back on the road. As a result of the coolant hose mishap, I had to remove my SF to twist the big tube to the "right" orientation. Well, I forgot ALL about the ECU reset, and I didn't realize you had to drive for 60 miles after a reset to get (pass) an inspection. The computer read "system not ready" or something like that, so I failed and got a "Rejected Sticker." Not a biggie... it's better than the big "8" on my windshield.

Good news is the guy was cool about the OBD port, as I saw him last year and he remembered me (knew I wasn't a narc). All I have to do is put another 20-30 miles on her and not have any codes, and I'll be good.

Oh, and it's free for me to go back and get the 'real' sticker. I have 60 days, but just want to get it over with. In the off chance I throw a code between now and then, does anyone know if just pulling and clearing the codes with the AP will either reset the ECU or come up as it was reset by the inspection computers? Or can I pull the code a few minutes before the inspection and have it pass? I don't have, nor do I expect to throw any codes, but just checking :)

TIA
 
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wtf. Who checks the ecu on inspections? I have never been checked like that. As long as all the lights work, tires and brake pads look good you dont have a problem in my area.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
wtf. Who checks the ecu on inspections? I have never been checked like that. As long as all the lights work, tires and brake pads look good you dont have a problem in my area.
MA does. It beats a visual inspection though like they have in VA. The bonus of them checking emissions via the ECU is that it ignores the second cat (or lack thereof, lol). I'll be fine, just gotta put some miles on her. I can't do that until I get my oil changed. Tried doing that after work, but Valoline didn't have the oil I wanted :/ Can't wait to get the DP and Mani installed!! Then I gotta rig the meth kit... then a protune, and hang up my hat :) Well, I want a BNR stage 3 when I have the loot... sometime int 2020, haha
 

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I'm in VA, no one really cares about lack of second cat either so long as there is one somewhere.

I go a bit south though to Dinwiddie to get my inspection done...in, 5min (lights/tires/horn), out. lol
 

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Im just glad I dont live in california
 
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i live in CA, i havent had to smog a car in 5 years
 

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I'm pretty sure if you clear a code you have to start over. My buddy in maryland tried to reset a code with a code reader just before his emmissions inspection and it came up not ready.
 

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I'm in VA, no one really cares about lack of second cat either so long as there is one somewhere.

I go a bit south though to Dinwiddie to get my inspection done...in, 5min (lights/tires/horn), out. lol
My inspection is coming up in a few months and I'm going to take it in without the second cat to see what will happen. I still have the stock downpipe. Knowing my luck they will fail me for no cat, because they are Nazis like that in VA Beach. Oh well, good thing I saved my OEM cat so when/if they do I can swap it right in.

That's why I've been picky lately on choosing a DP. Catted for sure. I don't want to swap out my stock one then deal with the headaches of inspection later.
 

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Lowspeed
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question-
how would a "gutted" second cat play out?

I'm guessing they are doing a visual inspection, so, if it looks like a cat.......
 

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haha VA for the win, yeah no smog checks (at least in rural VA) ecu checks or anything. I'm pretty sure they just make sure the lights work and you have seatbelts in the car. I know a few guys with huge lifted trucks and straight pipes that regularly pass inspection
 

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I suggest flashing the stock MAP. Trust me ive been there. I drove for a 100 miles and my car still failed cause the of the stage 2 mapping. Reason, the exception of code for the P0421.
 

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to answer you question the scan tool i had showed all the obd readiness codes for evap, cat and all that good stuff. it stated ready or not ready. everytime i cleared the codes they all went to not ready. i think 60 miles is excessive tho. it shouldnt take that long to run all the monitors. just a good full drive cycle or two
should run em.

clearing the codes essentially resets the ecu


When i was using on the shitbox contour i had to flip it ran the monitors in about 10 miles. it was only a 98 tho. i bought that thing for 200 and sold it for 950. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I suggest flashing the stock MAP. Trust me ive been there. I drove for a 100 miles and my car still failed cause the of the stage 2 mapping. Reason, the exception of code for the P0421.
wtf, I thought I replied to this. I dread the stock map... what is P0421 if you remember? I'm too lazy to look. I'm not throwing any codes....

to answer you question the scan tool i had showed all the obd readiness codes for evap, cat and all that good stuff. it stated ready or not ready. everytime i cleared the codes they all went to not ready. i think 60 miles is excessive tho. it shouldnt take that long to run all the monitors. just a good full drive cycle or two
should run em.

clearing the codes essentially resets the ecu


When i was using on the shitbox contour i had to flip it ran the monitors in about 10 miles. it was only a 98 tho. i bought that thing for 200 and sold it for 950. :)
I shouldn't have to flash the stock map on there? I may have to go threw the agony of searching for P0421. A stab in the dark would be a lean condition, but IDK. I don't really care too much, because the map isn't the right one anyways. It's close, but I forgot to bump my idle to 950rpms. Nice flip on the car btw!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here she is: P0421 Warmup Catalyst Efficiency Below Normal (Bank 1)

A couple possible causes:

Air leaks at the exhaust manifold or in the exhaust pipes
Catalytic converter is contaminated, damaged or has failed


What was the cause of your code DJ?
 

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i think i read on msf that some guy was getting that code with this catted downpipe, but if here started the car and beat it hard it never popped on, if he let it warm up and drive it normally it came on. havent figured it out yet.

i be willing to bet that means the cat is on its way out, how many miles you have dj, how many on that dp, its catted?
 

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I thought the fix for the code P0421 was to use one of those adapters to lift the O2 sensor further out of the exhaust.

I think it was a spark plug anti-foul adapter or some such
 

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I thought the fix for the code P0421 was to use one of those adapters to lift the O2 sensor further out of the exhaust.

I think it was a spark plug anti-foul adapter or some such
Bingo cause im running a catless dp, and that loves to show its head sometimes. But from what I know is that flashing to stock to get inspected is the only way to go. But you still have to drive a certain mile, I was told 100 is the safest...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bingo cause im running a catless dp, and that loves to show its head sometimes. But from what I know is that flashing to stock to get inspected is the only way to go. But you still have to drive a certain mile, I was told 100 is the safest...
Crap, I have a stage 2 tune on there, and I was hoping to break in the map so I can calibrate the maf and get the tuning underway. I have the stock DP, so I don't think that should be a problem. I'd feel like a chucklehead if I failed again. Guy is mad cool, and knows I'm not the popo. I'm not sure what happens if you fail twice... if it's nothing, I'd rather try the way it is. If I have to go through some mega-inspection, I'd rather play it safe with the stock map. Thanks for the info!
 
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