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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!

I'm getting some 12" pioneer subs and an amp from a friend for practically free and I was wondering how to install them with the Bose system in a 2005 6s, as I want to replace the blown factory sub.

Let me preface this by saying I have no electronic knowledge at all. I followed a guide and removed the factory head unit to find there there are no RCA cables (not a surprise). I don't want to spend a ton of money on a new head unit and faceplate, so that's not an option.

My questions are as follows: is there an easy way to rig this myself, with little to no knowledge of car electronics (and if there is, can you provide me with specific and detailed instructions)? and if I do bring it to my local car audio store, would it even be possible to hook up my subs and amp to the factory Bose system without replacing the head unit? Price is not a huge consideration, and I was only looking to save a little cash by doing it myself, but if its too complicated I'd rather just have them do it.

Thank you for any help you can offer. It is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your help. I appreciate it very much. I have searched to forums and I now understand to process for tapping into the factory wiring to make the rca cables. What about the remote on cable? is that somehow not needed now? or does that also have to be spliced?
 

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Ignore my previous post.

After searching the forums what I plan on doing is this:

1. Run independent power and ground cables for my aftermarket amp. Power to the battery and ground to the spare tire well (obviously).

2. Using wire tap-in clip connectors, tap into the positive and negative sub wires BEFORE it connects to the Bose amp. This is the part I need clarification with. If I buy a M to F(2) rca adapter and cut off the male end, can I connect each female end directly to the wire tap in connectors? and will it matter which female end I connect to the positive and negative sub wires?

3. Tap the remote turn-on wire directly from the factory sub turn-on wire in the trunk. I think this should work, could use clarification.

So This list of what I would need for the tap ins is
Wire tap in squeeze connectors
rca adapter M to F(2)
Amp wiring kit

Thank you for any input. This is my first time doing anything like this so I just want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly.
 

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I hooked up a system about 3 weeks ago in my mazda 6 w/ bose. I used this (bought at radioshack down the street)

24-Ft. 18-Gauge Speaker Cable with RCA Plug - RadioShack.com

I tapped into the line level outputs going to the bose amp then split the rca connection to hook up to the amp. Then, hooked up REM lead (remote) to Bose subamp blue/red strip wire


I think this way would be easier then striping down RCA cables. It was my first install and it went perfectly.
 

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I hooked up a system about 3 weeks ago in my mazda 6 w/ bose. I used this (bought at radioshack down the street)

24-Ft. 18-Gauge Speaker Cable with RCA Plug - RadioShack.com

I tapped into the line level outputs going to the bose amp then split the rca connection to hook up to the amp. Then, hooked up REM lead (remote) to Bose subamp blue/red strip wire


I think this way would be easier then striping down RCA cables. It was my first install and it went perfectly.
This is what I did also. It took less than an hour. Have fun l4x3rj
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If you want I can take a picture of the set up and connections when I get off work
Thank you very much 6i Mazda! I was wondering if I could also do it this way. I assume you tapped the wires right from the trunk? If it wouldnt be too much of a hassle I would greatly appreciate the picture to use as a base for my own setup.

Once again thank you!

Edit: one more thing, what did you use to split the rca connection?
 

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I'll post some pictures in about an hour. I did tap the wires in the trunk and I used a 1 female to 2 male spliter similar to this one:

 

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I had been battling this install and signal issue for the last two years. My problem was twofold. 1. When I connected the signal wires as brown to Positive, black/red to Negative, after starting the car, there was noise in the line that caused the sub to pulse. 2. With the car off, the signal was still not adequate to push my amp/sub to the level I was happy with in a different car, even with the gains maxed.

I had read elsewhere on this forum, that the signal to the Bose amp is ~1 volt and that this is far below what an aftermarket HU preamp output would be. So that explains issue 2. I have no clue what causes issue 1.

My solution, simply take the signal directly off the Bose sub, through a LOC and into my amp. This proved MUCH better. Not only was the noise gone, but the signal was greatly increased. I now have the gains ~20%, LOC at 100%, and the sub just below distortion on max volume. I did first test this with a cheapy sub/amp and some alligator clips. After I confirmed, it was simply a matter of soldering a wire to each side of the sub wire (the portion that goes from the basket to the voice coil), LOC to 1:2 RCA splitter and into my amp.

Couldn't be happier. Rockford Fosgate 225.2 bridged pushing a P3 in parallel.
 

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If you Look under the passanger seat youll see the Bose System amp. You can tap a Rear Right + IN and a Rear Left - IN and split those with an RCA splitter. This signal requires no LOC and works perfect. Just be careful sure what wires your tapping!

Read my post Here:
http://forum.mazda6club.com/car-electronics/138807-bose-wiring-4.html#post3309138

I have a 2004 Hatchback so my Sub is in the spare tire well but the system amp should be the same from what i have read.

I installed a JL Audio 12" 3v3 sub and JL Audio J2 500.1 amp
 

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how'd this project turn out?
Were you asking about my install? If so, Its been awesome. Sounds great.
HUGE difference between BOSE stock and after market JL 12" haha DEF suggest this set up for anyone!
Little pricey but installed with out a single problem. Total install time took about 1.5 hours after having my install all preplanned out and taking my time to make it look good with no exposed wires. Looks stock from the out side with being able to keep my factory head unit! Picture is during the "tuning" process before i mounted the Amp to the Box so it would be easier to take out if i needed to use my whole trunk still. I left the stock Sub and wiring in as well but is disconnected.

 

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I hooked up a system about 3 weeks ago in my mazda 6 w/ bose. I used this (bought at radioshack down the street)

24-Ft. 18-Gauge Speaker Cable with RCA Plug - RadioShack.com

I tapped into the line level outputs going to the bose amp then split the rca connection to hook up to the amp. Then, hooked up REM lead (remote) to Bose subamp blue/red strip wire


I think this way would be easier then striping down RCA cables. It was my first install and it went perfectly.
 

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this should work...
Hi I'm new to blogs . And I am trying to do the same thing as far as installing a aftermarket amp and subs via boss subwoofer speaker wires can you send me a picture of the whole setup it would be greatly appreciated and also which wire's are positive negative there's a brown one and a black and red striped one? And how do I let those up and I splice them into RCA cables? I really don't understand there are two RCA cables to plug into a amp better our only one positive and one negative wire in the harness I am not tech savvy at all and I hope you understand what are you trying to say I am stumped
please help
 
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