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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Try this: drive at constant speed in second gear at about 3000 rpm.. then lightly depress the clutch pedal a bit and hold.. after about ¼ of a second lag the ecu will reduce power and you'll feel the car 'bog' down.

It's the switch right above the clutch pedal - it tells the ecu to when you've depressed the clutch. The way that Mazda programmed the power reduction feels really bad to me; responsiveness is reduced during shifting and actually makes the car more difficult to drive...feels bad.

So do this.. pull the metal retaining clip down with a key and remove the connector. Takes ten seconds total.

Doing this stops the lagging power reduction during shifts which makes things feel better when executing shifts.

Another effect that it has is that as the car nears a stop it will raise the rpm a bit and at a full stop it will hold at 1300 rpm... It will only do this when you are in gear.. So if you're coasting or at a stop and you put it into neutral the car will go back down to idle... But if youre at a stop or nearing a stop and are in gear the ecu will bring the revs up a bit for you.. pretty awesome right?

There is one downside to this that Ive found.. the speed control wont know that you pressed the clutch down. So either shift before the speed control has a chance to react (taking out of gear cancels speed control), or touch the brake or cancel the speed control [edit - otherwise the rpms can rise surprisingly quickly]

I've only tested this on a 2004 6i (see edit for 6s).
Try it and see what you think; easily reversible in 10 seconds.


[edit] - Shua586 reported that the engine stalled out of the blue during a shift on the 6s.. Ive found the rpms drop faster when in gear and the switch disabled; the v6 may not be able to catch this at the bottom of the rpms (the i4 does it smoothly though). Im not recommending it for the 6s for safety unless others report zero problems. - [edit] other 6s owners havent had the issue.

[edit] - A few tried this on the ms6- not recommended due to odd behavior (idle loop unstable). Also I have no idea if it effects boost, timing, fuel...no access.

[edit] - I would change the title if I could.. i think its effects responsiveness and clutch feel more than acceleration.
 

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Does this have any effect on cruise control function or starting the car?

EDIT: By "speed control" are you referring to cruise control?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Does this have any effect on cruise control function or starting the car?
Surprisingly it doesn't effect the ability to start the car in anyway from what I can tell. I assumed it would have also but apparently they dont use it for redundancy. There is another switch further up on the clutch pedal that is involved in the interlock system.

EDIT: By "speed control" are you referring to cruise control?
Yes
 

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Discussion Starter #5

Pull this clip down with key and remove connector.


Today I got a p0704 [clutch switch input circuit malfunction]. No negative effects from it that I can tell. I cleared it and it hasn't come back yet.
 

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Very cool, gonna try this out tomorrow. If all goes well, I'm gonna put in a "Race Mode" switch to break the circuit whenever I want it to, hopefully that'd avoid any pesky CELs :p
 

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Try this: drive at constant speed in second gear at about 3000 rpm.. then lightly depress the clutch pedal a bit and hold.. after about ¼ of a second lag the ecu will reduce power and you'll feel the car 'bog' down.
Confirmed, I always suspected that the freaking e-throttle was somewhat ignoring my right foot while shifting.

It's the switch right above the clutch pedal - it tells the ecu to when you've depressed the clutch. The way that Mazda programmed the power reduction feels really bad to me; responsiveness is reduced during shifting and actually makes the car more difficult to drive...feels bad.
CONFIRMED, omfg, I always assumed that the thunkieness of the shifting was because of shitty motor mounts(I still think they're at fault a little bit), but the shifts are MUCH smoother now, and powerful. 1st to 2nd always chirped before, with or without TCS on. Now 1st to 2nd can lose traction for 2 or so seconds.

So do this.. pull the metal retaining clip down with a key and remove the connector. Takes ten seconds total.
Lies, only took 8-ish seconds. :p

Doing this stops the lagging power reduction during shifts which makes things feel better when executing shifts.
CONFIRMED

Another effect that it has is that as the car nears a stop it will raise the rpm a bit and at a full stop it will hold at 1300 rpm... It will only do this when you are in gear.. So if you're coasting or at a stop and you put it into neutral the car will go back down to idle... But if youre at a stop or nearing a stop and are in gear the ecu will bring the revs up a bit for you.. pretty awesome right?
Confirmed

There is one downside to this that Ive found.. the speed control wont know that you pressed the clutch down. So either shift before the speed control has a chance to react (taking out of gear cancels speed control), or touch the brake or cancel the speed control [edit - otherwise the rpms can rise surprisingly quickly]
I forgot to test this... sorry.

I've only tested this on a 6i.
Try it and see what you think; easily reversible in 10 seconds.
Confirmed for 2003 Mazda6s.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Very cool, gonna try this out tomorrow. If all goes well, I'm gonna put in a "Race Mode" switch to break the circuit whenever I want it to, hopefully that'd avoid any pesky CELs :p
I havent had any CELs since the first one... im not sure what triggered it (yet).

CONFIRMED, omfg, I always assumed that the thunkieness of the shifting was because of shitty motor mounts(I still think they're at fault a little bit), but the shifts are MUCH smoother now, and powerful. 1st to 2nd always chirped before, with or without TCS on. Now 1st to 2nd can lose traction for 2 or so seconds.
Similar here on the 2.3.. shifts are WAY smoother and way more pull on the shifts. More lively.


I'm going to do a formal write up as soon as im done with some deadlines I have next week. ive been driving on it like this for a little over a week now and it's sooooooooo much better it's ridiculous lol.
 

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Sweet, shifts are sooooo smoooooooth now, whether I'm driving casually to the grocery store or aggressively zooming down a curvy (more importantly, empty) road as I'm running late to my beautiful girlfriend's house (who I thank for letting me take a break from cuddling to make this post ;))

PS, good news about the CELs
 

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Gonna have to give this a shot. I always wondered why my 6 fell on its face when shifting. Couldn't you just tape the switch down* to negate the cel) that way you wouldn't have to unplug anything and the car would be nonethewiser.

*assuming the switch is a normally closed switch that opens when you depress the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Gonna have to give this a shot. I always wondered why my 6 fell on its face when shifting. Couldn't you just tape the switch down* to negate the cel) that way you wouldn't have to unplug anything and the car would be nonethewiser.

*assuming the switch is a normally closed switch that opens when you depress the clutch.
Taping it down would certainly work but when I attempted it was too much work to try compared to just pulling the clip down (I had bad tape and the bracket is shaped funny). I tried rubber bands for a short time...kinda works but is definitely not permanent.

The switch is normally open that closes when you depress the clutch and so both methods do the same thing (taping probably wont avoid CEL).

I'm still not sure what caused the CEL...it's been over a week since I got it and It only happend once. I think I may have been using the speed control and then issued a shift but I dont remember (ive repeated this numerous times and havent gotten it). There is another clutch switch that may or may not be tide into the ECU that is primarily used for the interlock. Could be checking against that or something..still doesnt explain why I only got it once lol
 

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Confirmed on an 06 6i. No CEL's as of yet. It is a lot easier to downshift(sometimes when I would blip the throttle to revmatch, it was never good enough for a smooth shift) since when you put it into any gear, it blips the throttle for you. The only negative impact that I see is before I could move the car from idle, now that it revs up, I pull away from a stop at 1.2-2k rpms.
I will keep trying it this way. My feet are so used to the old way that it will take me some getting used to. Also downshifts are not as fast for me since it blips the throttle in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
It is a lot easier to downshift(sometimes when I would blip the throttle to revmatch, it was never good enough for a smooth shift) since when you put it into any gear, it blips the throttle for you.
Also downshifts are not as fast for me since it blips the throttle in gear.
This is different.. Ive switched it on and off while driving to see the difference between the two and I havent seen the blipping.

Performing a shift is going to be a little different because the ECU isnt cutting power which mean the driver has to do it.

Make sure your foot is completely off the throttle (the e-throttle % of opening is partially mapped against engine RPM...greater foot travel) and that youre letting up off the throttle slightly before releasing the clutch (the e-throttle is a little slow).

If you're sure it's blipping the throttle maybe the 2006 has a different behavior?
I dont see why it would be programmed that way though..no benefits from it and if someone rev matched a shift without the clutch then the car would buck.

The only negative impact that I see is before I could move the car from idle, now that it revs up, I pull away from a stop at 1.2-2k rpms.
I will keep trying it this way.
I have a solution for that.

Most of the time I like this since I usually trying to accelerate. But in slow moving traffic like a grid lock it is a little annoying.

Basically I'm going to tie the switch into the cruise control. When the cruise control is on... it will behave just like normal. When one switches it off it will disable the clutch switch.

So you wont have the above problem AND it stops the run away RPMS from happing when the cruise control system is set and the clutch released. To me this seems like a pretty good seamless solution.

I have to wait until next week to do it though because of some deadlines :p
 

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My car has always been weird even before this mod as far as the "extra throttle" is concerned. For example, if I go WOT on the car and I am at 6k rpm and doing a fast shift, when I shift it would rev to like 6500 and then drop. This was without the mod, maybe I am pushing in the clutch too fast??? I think after this mod has been done, I have to adjust my foot actions because I am so used to giving it gas during a shift so the rev's dont drop so fast. The AC multiplies the effect. But if I push the clutch in fast, its almost like the rev's used to hold for a little before dropping. Now after this mod I don't use the gas at all when shifting and it seems to be a lot smoother.
I like your proposed solution but I only did this mod because I am a newb. I am not sure about messing with the cruise control. Whats weird is that if you put in gear when the engine is cold, it goes to like 2k which is rather annoying so I just let it warm up a bit.

I have a 20 mile city run today so I will be able to tinker with my shifting technique more lol
 

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any of you know if this can be safely done on the MS6? i had the same connector above my clutch. i pulled it and defintely felt a significant improvment but i also had to adjust my driving style for it lol because i was so used to having to give it more gas during shifts. one thing i did notice tho is that when doing shifts at very high RPM from WOT when i depress the clutch it seems to release veryyyy hard with a pretty loud engine noise (just sounds like engine is under heavy load). also one time at a red light while stopped in 1st gear my rpms were going up and down betweeen 1300-900. would go up to 1300, drop back to 900 and keep cycling. anyone have these issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
any of you know if this can be safely done on the MS6?
You're the first to test as far as Im aware. I dont see why it would be though except for maybe the turbo; someone who knows more about this maybe could comment because I honestly dont know for the ms6.

i had the same connector above my clutch. i pulled it and defintely felt a significant improvment but i also had to adjust my driving style for it lol because i was so used to having to give it more gas during shifts.
awesome.
Im surprised it works on the ms6 actually.. thought it would have been completely different.

one thing i did notice tho is that when doing shifts at very high RPM from WOT when i depress the clutch it seems to release veryyyy hard with a pretty loud engine noise (just sounds like engine is under heavy load).
Im not sure what you mean by release.. Do you mean the clutch is physically hard to depress or do you mean the clutch feels more "on/off"?

If it's hard to depress I wonder if you have spline damage.

The engine noise I wouldnt be surprised that it's your turbo. I dont know how the ms6 is setup.. but i bet it's getting rid of boost that shouldnt be there so the revs can drop (sudden no load). Probably can compensate for a shift a bit more if it knows it's going to happen. I dont know if that it is physically bad for it or not. maybe someone who knows more about it than I do can comment?

also one time at a red light while stopped in 1st gear my rpms were going up and down betweeen 1300-900. would go up to 1300, drop back to 900 and keep cycling. anyone have these issues?
I had this happen once near when I first did it.. either the ecu remapped or it's a rare event (for the 6i anyway)
What I think this is is that the rpms are increasing to stop the car from lugging/stalling when idling in gear. It's expecting the mass of the car.. so when it gives gives more gas it overshoots because it's only the mass of the engine and flywheel. So then it backs off a bunch thinking the mass of the car is there.. and it drops faster than expected.. and repeats.

Ive only seen it once so either the ecu 'learned' or I hit perfect (rare) condition for it. But again the ms6 is basically a different car and could be more likely to do it.. don't know.
 
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