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Discussion Starter #1
So, as you all know from reading my posts, I recently bought a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 and within a day, it threw a rod. I decided to hold onto her and am now having another complete engine put in (found one on LQK with 123k miles on it) and am also having a new clutch put in. The current mods on her are:
1) CPE delete exhaust
2) Go fast bits BOV
3) Black 18' Drop star rims (unfortunately with chrome lips) running Michelin Pilot's
4) AEM CAI (running SRI) 3.0
5) Cobb Accessport (V3)
When I bought the car, the previous owner gave me a huge pile of stock parts (2 OEM Intercoolers,2 OEM intercooler covers,OEM exhaust,OEM airbox,set of OEM rims-all of which I plan on selling) & a Corksport CAI (2.3). He also gave me a lot of fluids (differential,radiator,etc) & one of the fluids was a 1 gallon bottle of Rotella motor oil (5W40). My overall concerns are:
1) Is the Rotella 5W40 the best oil for the car?
2) Being only the engine is getting replaced (NOT the ECU), will I need to format the access port & if so, is it easy to do?
3) Whats the best oil filter?
4) Best spark plugs (give me a few options please)?
5) Would it better to use the current CAI (AEM 3.0) or the 2.3 Corksport?
6) The headlights are pretty yellow so unless someone has a set (by the way would stock Mazda 6 headlights fit?), what kit is best?
7) The inside guts of the drivers door handle is messed up (if you pull the handle, it comes off in your hand) & I am going to get that replaced but need to know if a regular Mazda 6 door guts would work (I pinned down a black Mazda 6 in a nearby junkyard and the owner is offering me a good deal on most of what I need).
8) Whats the best Antifreeze to use?
& anything else you guys think someone who has never owned a Mazdaspeed 6 before. I used to own a 2003 Mazda 6 that I hooked up with a K&N "Typhoon" CAI/SRI,rims,Eibach springs & a few other mods like a Mazdaspeed exhaust system (Axle back). From what I've been reading/learning here, you have to drive these babies "like you stole it" & although a lot of people seem to think the rod blew due to a "6 gear lug", I can assure you that I'm not that bad of a NOOB to believe that. As time goes by, I plan on dumping the money into her in an effort to get her right. When I bought it, the previous owner told me it was running a little over 300HP and he had been trying to set it up for E85 (whatever that means). Overall, all of us on the forum agree I was sold a severely mistreated vehicle. Now, its time to get her right. I am spending over $4000 to get the engine and new clutch in (which will drain my finances for about a month or two). The mechanic looked at the transmission and said it is in "excellent condition" & prior to installing the engine (which will be this week), he is going to check the head gasket and the timing chain. So, what's next guys?
 
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Rotella 5W40 is probably the best choice of oil for this engine with price taken into consideration. I would also suggest looking into Motul or Redline. Don't be scared to go up to 5W50 once it becomes warm outside.

Swapping in the same engine with 123K miles is a bad idea, again. I'll warn you again, as my assumptions with this MS6 proved to be correct last time around. If it's not too late I still think you should ditch the used motor and just rebuild what you have now. Based from what I can tell... No. This car did not seem "severely mistreated"

Based on what we gathered while looking into your first engine, seems like it was in very good shape.

If the ECU is not being replaced, I don't think so.

Use OEM oil filters, OEM antifreeze, etc.

The door on regular Mazda 6's is identical to the Mazdaspeed.

For spark plugs, stick to NGK. You can also use Bosch, but its better to stick to Japanese spark plugs on a Japanese car.

The 6th gear lug could have caused the failure, could not have. It's unlikely that the engine blew coincidentally during such a situation. Like i've mentioned before. the lugging was likely just enough to seal the deal for an already worn/weak rod bearing.

the "drive it like you stole it" approach should be acceptable given it's not just a regular Mazda, but the driveline and engine is NOT able to take hard abuse. You can enjoy your car here and there, but I would keep it well sort of what some may consider as "abusive" driving. In short, no. DO NOT drive it aggressively unless you want more problems and more wasted money.

I'd recommend sticking to the factory airbox if you still have that. If not, stick to a cold air intake which draws air through the bumper, not a short ram which just sucks warm air from the engine bay. If it's gonna be an SRI, at least try to have it draw some cool air from the bumper/hood gap and add a little heatshield around the cone element.
 

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Please use paragraphs, all you have to do is press enter key twice. I find it very straining to read. You might call me old-fashioned, but I try my best to follow my English teacher.
😀

3) Whats the best oil filter?
It has been debated just recently, and I have to agree on using OEM oil filter.

8) Whats the best Antifreeze to use?
If your car model uses FL-22, then I'll get it from the dealer.
 

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Though I don't own a speed6, I've been around automotives for years (25+) so I can answers the questions to the best of my knowledge (or what I would do)

1) Is the Rotella 5W40 the best oil for the car?
3) Whats the best oil filter?
Oil and oil filter opinions are like assholes. Everyone has one so get ready for all sorts of opinions on these. Me I'd use whatever the car calls for to get it up and running. I'd even use a cheap oil for 100 -500 miles and do a change after driving the new engine for a bit. Reason being is if it's not getting a full teardown, you really don't know the full health of the engine. Doing a driven 100-500 miles could help you determine it by looking at the oil that comes out of it during the 1st drain in car.

2) Being only the engine is getting replaced (NOT the ECU), will I need to format the access port & if so, is it easy to do?
Contact the seller and ask them if they have already used the port on the car before. It's my understanding (from hanging out in speed groups) that these ports get married to the car/ECU. If the PO already had a tune put on the car, there shouldn't be the need to redo it for an engine replacement.

4) Best spark plugs (give me a few options please)?
I'd run whatever was in the old engine just to get it running. The reason being is that the ECU may be tuned for them. If getting a different brand/temp, it could cause slight issues.

5) Would it better to use the current CAI (AEM 3.0) or the 2.3 Corksport?
Yet again, same with the spark plugs. I'd run the one that was on the car until it's running. The different air intake could have different effects on the tune. It's best to be safe and run whatever was in the car when you 1st bought it and it was running okish before changing things around. This way if there is an issue right at startup after the new engine is in, you know it's the engine vs what you changed.

6) The headlights are pretty yellow so unless someone has a set (by the way would stock Mazda 6 headlights fit?), what kit is best?
You can order new lenses on eBay for about 45 bucks. The lights come apart real easy with a little bit of heat. It will take longer getting the headlights out of the car than it does to open them lol. It would be like a 3 hour job max just to swap the lenses and that's with a lunch.

7) The inside guts of the drivers door handle is messed up (if you pull the handle, it comes off in your hand) & I am going to get that replaced but need to know if a regular Mazda 6 door guts would work (I pinned down a black Mazda 6 in a nearby junkyard and the owner is offering me a good deal on most of what I need).
This I'm not sure of. Junk yard parts are cheap so if it doesn't work, then no harm no foul. I'd say try it and let the rest of us know lol.

8) Whats the best Antifreeze to use?
Again this is opinions. I'd run whatever the car called for.

The only other things that I would do if it were me, I'd have all the seals replaced while the engine is out. If not all of them, the hard to get to ones while the engine is in the car. There is nothing worse than replacing an engine then finding out that it leaks. With the engine on a stand, it makes getting to everything easy.

As stated before, I'd have them run a log once the engine is in. This way they can see if the tune was even safe in the 1st place before the engine went. If they say that something seems off, have them tune it. Rather have a fresh tune by the person doing the work so that way if something goes wrong, you can take it back to them and see whats up.

Hope this helps some and good luck. Again, I'm not a speed owner,, I've been around cars for a while, and this is just my opinion on how I'd go about things if it were me.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Regarding the rebuild comment, the thrown rod has severely damaged the block and when I asked the mechanic about a rebuild he highly suggested against it. Other than that, thank you for the advice (MazdaMoisturization)...
 
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Please use paragraphs, all you have to do is press enter key twice. I find it very straining to read. You might call me old-fashioned, but I try my best to follow my English teacher.
😀



It has been debated just recently, and I have to agree on using OEM oil filter.



If your car model uses FL-22, then I'll get it from the dealer.
@bulwnkl did post a study; which, basically speaking stated that which oil filter you use had little effect on test results. This means how OFTEN you change your oil and filter has more effect than "what sort" of oil filter you are using.
 
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