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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright... Some may have saw my post about me needing to replace my steering knuckle. Now I have enough money to spare and I have done some research. To replace the steering knuckle, removing the balls from the joints for the upper control arm and the lower control arm and tie rod seems to be a LOT of trouble.

Anways, I was thinking about maybe I can get parts from a salvage yard. Ive never been to a salvage yard before, so Im not sure if this works. But since parts are cheaper I am wondering if, since it is so hard to seperate the steering knuckle from the control arms and tie rod... would it be any easier to take MORE out? meaning the steering knuckle plus.. extra. or am I just dreaming?
 

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the trick to getting the lower control arms off is to loosen the nut and hit it hard and repeatedly with a hammer, separating the lower control arm from the spindle. repeat for the upper and other lower control arm. the lower control arms can come out by just unbolting them from the subframe from there on out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the trick to getting the lower control arms off is to loosen the nut and hit it hard and repeatedly with a hammer, separating the lower control arm from the spindle. repeat for the upper and other lower control arm. the lower control arms can come out by just unbolting them from the subframe from there on out.
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thanks! that sounds a bit easier. what about the tie rod? easier to disconnect at the peanut knuckle.. or at the other end? I guess there would be ball joints at both ends.. so neither..
 

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The mechanics I've watched that do this job all the time hit the control arm and tie rod itself, right in the meaty part near the ball joint. They actually hit it "forward", ie towards the front of the car. I've seen them get those arms out with just two solid blows. But the hitting the nut method is also a good one, just be sure as mentioned above to only hit the nut, not the threads! Maybe even better is to put a block of wood under the nut and hit that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The mechanics I've watched that do this job all the time hit the control arm and tie rod itself, right in the meaty part near the ball joint. They actually hit it "forward", ie towards the front of the car. I've seen them get those arms out with just two solid blows. But the hitting the nut method is also a good one, just be sure as mentioned above to only hit the nut, not the threads! Maybe even better is to put a block of wood under the nut and hit that.
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Its good to know all the possibilities and options I have :p Since this isnt crucial, I havent started this project yet and Im waiting until winter break until I get started as Im pretty busy with school. I actually havent even taken the time to take the wheel off and inspect and measure the knuckle and control arms etc to make sure that the shop was telling the truth... Ill probably do that this weekend though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Its good to know all the possibilities and options I have :p Since this isnt crucial, I havent started this project yet and Im waiting until winter break until I get started as Im pretty busy with school. I actually havent even taken the time to take the wheel off and inspect and measure the knuckle and control arms etc to make sure that the shop was telling the truth... Ill probably do that this weekend though.
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looks like I might be doing this sooner :p I have some free time. Would you guys suggest hitting the thing directly with a hammer, or using a pickle fork?

also my next question... I can just wind the tie-rod all the way, right? (instead of unsocketing its bearing)? or is there something to keep me from doing that?

sorry for all the questions... I try to be as prepared as I can when I do these types of things.
 

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dont touch the tie rod.

DONT use a pickle fork, i need to buy 2 new control arms because i did that. it splits the boot, and you loose all lubrication in the ball joint after awhile.

this is what you do. loosen nut, hit nut with hammer upwards to remove from spindle. you might need a pickelfork for the top one, but if you have the top one off, you can actually get the axel out, because you can move the spindle out of the way enough, if thats what your looking to do.
 
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